ArcanumOne

UPDATE: The spark issue resurfaced after about 4 weeks after my last post. The OEM plug in the Bimota Service Manual and the GSXR1100 W Factory Manual both call for NGK CR9E plugs. I decided to install NGK CR9EAK spark plugs, these have the two side electrodes instead of just one. They came already gapped. The engine started right away and ran much smoother. I have had the plugs in for a year now and the engine is running flawlessly with excellent Performance and no hesitation. (The plugs have the same dimensions).

Factory Pro makes very good quality emulsion tubes and needles. I had issues with the emulsion tubes ovaling-out on my Triumph Speed Triple, Bimota SB6 and my GSXR1100. I replaced all the emulsion tubes with Factory-Pro's and also replaced all the jet needles with their Titanium needles and have not had an issue since.

I have heard that knock-off NGKs are out there, but I purchased these over the counter at a big auto parts chain. The bike is back together. Test ride was excellent- hesitation and acceleration delays are gone and she runs like new again.

Ok, I have her running again. Two iridium plugs went bad. I tested all four, only two sparked. Cleaned and regapped to .7 mm, still would not spark so they are in the trash. They were only recently replaced. All plugs renewed with good ol’ copper NGK CR9E plugs. Started right up. I had replaced the OEM coils several years ago because the cables were arcing to the cam cover. Decided it might be fun to replace with Dyna mini 3 ohm coils and their brand of cables. All was fine until 4 months ago when the ignition started missing, then firing on only three, then two cylinders, then none at all. Replaced the plugs and all was fine for about 135 miles and again, some of the new plugs failed. Went back to brand new OEM Suzuki coils and cables, and she runs again. Will see how long these plugs last now with stock coils and CR9E plugs. Maybe the Dyna coils and OEM igniter did not play nicely with one another. Will do some maintenance on her (oil/filter, coolant change, new front pads and brake fluid change), then will post some pics of her soon.

Yup, checked and disassembled, all works fine. Minimal wear since there are so few miles on it for its age (8800 miles). Used multi-tool and verified all connections good.

Update--while the cranking problem was resolved, I still have no spark--and this is driving me nuts. I replaced the CDI box, both coils and all cables with new Suzuki OEM parts, all new plugs and a new Signal Generator. No spark. Battery voltage is about 12.8. I was able to see spark intermittently when cranking a couple of times, then thereafter no spark from that point. This time I made sure all connectors are correct, and all fuses are good--replaced them all anyway with new ones just to make sure and cleaned all the contacts for the terminals. I can see voltage fluctuating on and off while cranking if I put test leads into the coil feeds. The wires coming out of the top connector on the CDI box are Brown/Blue (top) and White/Black (bottom). Black and white are power feeds and have 12 volts +. Blue has 12 Volts + but brown shows no voltage. The bike is too old to have a Suzuki shop test. I did buy a second CDI box as a comparison, but no joy. Anyone have any suggestions on what to try next?

SOLVED. I reversed two connectors I SWORE up and down were correct. They weren't. Ever have one of those "aha!" moments when you're really not concentrating on the problem? Well..... Thank you al for who contributed. Lesson learned.

Check Eblag--under "Suzuki OEM Connectors). I found a few good OEM style replacements.

Still testing. I found the correct path for the SG and repaired the wire. Now the starter won't work. I am trying to determine how the kickstand relay receives power. I tested the relay and it clicks with continuity being achieved across the other set of terminals. So far as I can see, the relay receives its power from the coils but I can't determine the source to the coils. The starter and kick-stand relay and switch check-out ok. The switches on the handlebars are OK as I am able to bypass certain sections of the wiring harness and get the bike to turn-over via the starter switch. Will continue troubleshooting and advise.

So, I spent some time last night studying the Bimota SB6 wiring diagram. I think I figured it out how the diagram works now. The signal Generator lead which has a green and black wire from the generator itself connects to a black and darker green colored wire in the harness. The wiring diagram shows this green wire connected to the CDI (the larger connector that has only three wires as opposed to the smaller black with four wires). When I do a continuity check (Key off) between the green wire at the signal generator connector and to the CDI block, there is no continuity. I suspect now there is an issue with that wire in the loom. Will disassemble the loom again a bit deeper and see if there is a resistor or a damaged wire. Stay tuned. As far as the diode, there is one present, however--it is for the side-stand switch only. The resistor in Suzuki legacy GSXR ignitions is located in the wire coming from the switch, concealed inside the protective plastic sleeving. I have not actually ever seen a resistor in the switch itself. There is a resistor further down in the wiring harness, but it is specifically for the temp gauge. In response to Losiu's suggestion, I like the concept? Maybe a good zap with a welding prod :-) As always, I really appreciate your responses and insight. Thank you!

Thank you for the insight. I tore the entire wiring loom apart--found a resistor for the temp gauge and a diode for the kickstand. No other resistors. No resistor in the ignition switch--pics below:

Starting to sound like a good option....

Thank you for the responses, guys. The kill switch is OK--tested. This is a specific Bimota wiring harness. What makes this so hard is even the color codes of the wires are different from the GSXR's (I have both the GSXR1100 and a Bimota SB6 manuals). I am going to remove the Ignition switch and see if any resistors are present. I'll check the switch out with a multi-tester as well. There are three relays behind the twin headlights--one is the kickstand relay, another is the starter relay and the third is the turn signal relay. Starter relay is good, all fuses are good. Will check the other two relays. Testing the coil primary terminal connectors: I connect one test lead to the hot wire and ground the other test lead to the engine and get 12.67 volts. This is with the ignition on. The engine was receiving spark on 3 of the four cylinders when the symptoms first presented. I changed the Spark Plug, and it resolved only to return later on another cylinder. I replaced that plug and it resolved. Finally, after two weeks of storing the bike, there is no spark at all. The coils are new Suzuki OEM coils, and so is the signal generator. I did a spark test using all new plugs by grounding the plug to the engine - no spark. The CDI box is Part Number Suzuki 32900-46E00, yellow label vs black or red. The wiring to this CDI box does not align to any of Suzuki's wiring diagrams for any year GSXR, for any market. For example, the Green/Black wires form the signal generator would show in a Suzuki wiring diagram as going to the ignitor. The wiring to the ignitor box does not have any green wire going to it. It goes somewhere else in the rat's nest. The Bimota wiring diagrams I have access to do not describe where any of the wires go nor do they indicate the color of the wires adding to my frustration.... I am the original owner of the bike purchased new.

Hello Everyone, Have a problem with my SB6's '96 GSXR1100 Water cooled engine not getting any spark. During troubleshooting checked basics such as resistance for primary and secondary coil, caps and cables--all checked out OK. Replaced the coils and cables with new; replaced the Ignitor box and replaced the Signal Generator. Validated negative ground and continuity with all connections. Tested the Kick-stand lock-out switch, all OK. The diode for the kickstand is also good. All new spark plugs--tried conventional copper and iridium form NGK. For the GSXR1100W from Suzuki, i know there is a resistor in the ignition switch which sometimes failed. If that was replaced it would solve the problem. Not sure though if the Zado ignition switch has such a resistor. The manual I have from Bimota has a wiring diagram, but I find it useless. Anyone experience this kind of problem and solve it? 8500 miles on the bike.

Thank you for the information on carb jetting from the manual. I have the "official" Bimota manual, but it does not have any of the info you provided. I have it apart again, as I discovered the Signal Generator is bad. I bought a used one on Eblag and am waiting for it to arrive so I can install and test.

What is the best jetting and carburetor setting for the SB6 with stock cans and air box? I have mixture screws 2 turns out, stick idle jet #40 120 mains across all 4 carbs, needle height set in the middle 3rd level. The bike has a bit of stumble and hesitation when warm from about 4k rpm then launches like mad…..

I just found this site and registered. I have a 1996 White/Red/Carbon SB6. 8700 miles on the odometer and purchased new in 1996. Here are some pictures of my bike and some of the maintenance routines I have had to conduct over the years. The pictures might help as reference when re-assembling the bike. Also, one note about fitting the gas tank to the bike--yes, the Carb Diaphragm vent filter is mounted with the attachment flange upside down to lower the filter a bit for clearance. Even so, with all plumbing aligned the way Bimota did it originally, there is sometimes still a fitment problem where the tank rests don't always rest on the frame, leaving about a 2 mm gap or so--this is attributable to tank expansion when it is not full. The gas expands and bloats the tank. If you relieve the pressure inside the tank by opening the cap, you will see that the tank immediately contracts and rests on the tabs as intended.... The past picture is my dog rolling on floor laughing at me while I try to fit the tank back as it was....