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MeanBean49

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Posts posted by MeanBean49

  1. 2 hours ago, Fredrik_Steen said:

    Torque are hard on rods. I did 1,6bar @ 12 000rpm on stock rods and pistons.

    Rasing boost curve and a lot of ignition retard around torque max.

    Was that on a dyno or a bike actually intended to be used for intended purpose?

    Im pretty sure the OP isnt particulalry interested in a one off for a few seconds

  2. 57 minutes ago, Allspeeds said:

    I know some have pushed stock blandit rods further just wasn’t sure about say what now!? 1127 rods? 

    Not much difference between gsxr and bandit rods iirc. As long as the motor is in good health should be good up to 280-300bhp. Handle 250bhp easy.

    That said if you want some busa rods Ive got a box full, you can have a set

  3. 7 hours ago, wraith said:

    About know the wight of a slingshot rear wheel ( 5.5") with tyre on ?

    Any particular tyre? Can be quite a big difference between brands.

    There was a post on here very recently that had bare weights iirc

  4. 1 hour ago, jonny1bump said:

    I completely agree on new stuff but not with our old clunkers Rob.

    Ive had no issues with ignitech one, maybe to do with being able to play with the delay time as well as the kill time.

    Granted its not like a new bike, but its not like oldskool quickshifters either that only work flat chat at high rpm

  5. 15 hours ago, jonny1bump said:

    Greg remember your only really interested in quick shifter been spot on when your close to red line, at end day they designed for racing and flat out shifts.

    Normal riding should still use your clutch.

    Not strictly true. Well setup quickshifter will work just as well at low rpm and small throttle openings too.

    New bike ones are amazing, you can litterally go up and down the box at steady throttle not much above tickover. Granted they do have a bit more controlling them than a fixed kill time.

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Allspeeds said:

    I do agree you would have to use an  n board compressor maybe for road use maybe? I just really struggled with the electric one I had I was pretty dangerous how it worked but it was designed for cars we tested it loads using a leak down tester and it would regulate pressure every time we would then dyno test it and the bike would try spool to the moon! One thing we wondered after removing it for safety was if it wasn’t seeing correct manifold pressure (it took a reading to its box of electrickery) there for not able to do it’s job I don’t know it was two years ago to remember but we did come up with a theory that made sense :D

    I do still have it and it’s instructions 

    Try one like mine. :tu

  7. Rather than fanny about with springs etc, working out what does what and then again when the tenperature changes etc, I can recomend something like this.

    https://rspec.co.uk/boost-controllers-electronic-boost-controllers-c-69_109/52mm-pro-iebc-electronic-boost-controller-bar-p-644.html

    Leave base pressure spring in that gives 5-7psi. 

    Then you can dial in whatever boost you want above that by flicking a switch and turning a dial. Had mine on dash and could change it easily while riding. Mines been dead reliable for 6 years.

    Used to be able to find them without the gauge for about £85 if you search.

    • Like 3
  8. 13 hours ago, rerb said:

    Good advice, i'm up to 15 psi now after removing the exhaust and some fueling tweaking, so far no weak spots in the AFR in boost. Thing boogies. Ran a 7.2 1/8th mile @104 mph with no launch while crossing the gates in a 3rd gear powerwheelie at 7.5k rpms. To get any good numbers a longer swinger would be required. As for the comment about boost during peak torque, I understand that high boost in lower rpms can over torque the motor, but if peak torque is far up in the rev range, is that something to concerned with? my turbo's a lazy bastard so I only start to come into power at about 6k -> 10k, although it does build to 10 psi pretty quick.

    And an ignitech box with dyna coils is the next priority, solely to have access to timing curves, limiter, and stronger spark. (and 2step for the launches B|

    BTW the motor has busa pistons, APE head studs/nuts and a HD cchain. So it's decently prepped for some good numbers.

    If your going ignitech, ditch the Dyna coils and go for their COP's too. Its a better option

    • Like 3
  9. 3 hours ago, Fredrik_Steen said:

    5 psi ~ 0,34bar

    100 stock bandit hp x 1,34 = 134hp

    Think that will last for a long time...

     

    Regarding non "motorcykel" dyno, people that actually know stuff are more impressed with a run in a loaded water absorber than on a light roller.

    Atleast you can't cheat with djhp like your best friend.

     

    My point was, keep your ignition timing safe and don't throw all boost in the torque max range. Most part failures are user errors. 

    My best freind?

    Not really, i just thinkthe whole willy waving over a madeup self proclaimed "world reccord" is absolutely pathetic.

    And I think your way over estimating the amount of people who are actually impressed.

    Nobody cares about numbers on paper. Want to impress people, make it a motorbike and use it, do somthing real! :TB:

  10. 12 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Generally agree but std. OEM cast pistons don't last well with boost - maybe sub 0.5 bar ok, but much more and bye bye! Ring lands crush with heat and pressure, trap rings = massive blow by. Busa pistons are cast but seem to be better than most and can tolerate some good boost but even they have their limits @ about 280hp level. GSXR / Blandit rods usually safe at your target although how much more over, is open to debate LOL!

    Can almost measure in minutes how long bandit pistons last above 5psi lol.

    Not so important in Mr Steens world where lasting a few seconds on a non motorcycle dyno and getting a big number to plaster all over the internet seems to be all thats important 9_9

    • Like 1
  11. 11 hours ago, yantosh said:

    insurance.... there's another shower of shady underhanded charlatans 

    I always go for agreed value, means you list all the parts etc and they need all round pictures. 

    Costs a bit more but no way they can dispute what is insured 

    • Like 1
  12. Just a note to bear in mind on the Q plate thing.

    Not all Q plates mean you can default to 1971 regulations.

    If you have a declared year of manufacture on the V5 you need to comply to the rules relevant to that year.

    I wanted to run black and silver plates on my Harris but technically couldnt because it had a manufacture date in 80's. Ive got another ZXR Q plate frame that has no date, saving that one for special use.

    Saying that I dont think DVLA, Police or MOT testersactually have a clue exactly what the rules are themselves. I just make sure my insurance company know exactly what my bike is so at least then your covered if anything goes wrong.

    • Like 3
  13. 2 hours ago, BoostedRooster712 said:

    That was retail in 1989. I'm not paying that.

    Had a worn set in the calipers already which I used as a template for the modded SBS pads.

    Because he's getting old and it took him a while to find them amongst his boxes and boxes of parts.

    I have stock calipers, not interested in using them on this build. Also have a set of Harrison Big Billet 6s but don't want to use them either.

    Never seen a set of brake pads with a use by date. I sell NOS pads 5 days a week as I work in spares and we specialise in old stuff, no complaints from anyone.

    The calipers have been on display their whole life, I'm willing to take the risk. Big chunky magnesium calipers, I can't see how any forces I put on them will make them fail. 

    There's as set of marvics as well but I draw the line on old magnesium wheels for road use.

    Not the way I look at it. I asked for the calipers, took a while to get him to sell them to me. I was aware of the pad situation but that came good in the end after I'd come up with a solution.

    I don't think quitting my job is the answer, during lockdown, mid pandemic, over something I actively chased for a while but thanks for your concern.

    Seen old pads literally fall off the backing plate straight out of the packeton more than one occasion, they also age harden and go brittle, they may work but they generally are shit compared to fresh new pads, not to mention 30 years of development and improvement.

    Seems pretty strange logic that you wouldnt trust mag wheels, but will calipers, guess stopping aint that important.

    Just trying to help. Guess it depends what your going to use the bike for.

    • Like 2
  14. Think personally id give the calipers back, buy some normal nissin 4 potsand get some decent quality modern pads.

    They will look similar and work much better. 30 odd year old NOS pads will be shite, and $600 when you need more is ridiculous.

    Thats before you take into account magnesium does not age well and the caliper ade likely to be dangerous to use anyway

    • Like 1
  15. All this guesswork, and feels like on the road etc.

    Invest in some dyno time and see what its actually doing in each confiuration.

    I found with mine swapping from slash cut to an underslung full length can using 63mm pipe cut about 20bhp off.

    But that I think was mostly because of the very short contorted pipe to the can

    When I had a propper full 63mm system it didnt make that much difference. Had to compromise though as it was decking out badly

    • Like 2
  16. 2 hours ago, Joseph said:

    No, but it's the same as a slingshot, and the axle space between the swingarm legs of a slabside and a slingshot is the same (slingshot rims are plug and play i believe on a slabside ? )

    Of course if the engine sprocket positions differ, or if the frame is narrower, i agree that that can affect this kind of project as far as chain run goes.

    But theoretically centering the rim should be pretty much the same kind of job ?

    No they arent. Slabbies (or some slabbie models) are narrower than Slingys afaik as per my first post. Think its somthing like 90mm slabbie, 100mm slingy and water boilers, 110mm for k series.

    Centreing the rim is the easy part, trying to get the chain alignment right is the hard part.

    Not sure if you can just change the spacer behind the front sprocket to conver slabbie motor to slingy dimensions, got a funny feeling theres not enough thread to do it

  17. 7 hours ago, Joseph said:

    Frankly you've got me confused.

    On my 93 which is essentially the same as a slingshot, i centered the rim, which has to be the only starting point to take off from. I had the sprocket carrier shaved all the way down to the bearing edge (7mm) to ensure that the rim could be centered. I put a 5mm spacer behind the front sprocket and flipped the rear sprocket round because the one i bought was stepped so putting it the other way round got it closer to the tyre.

    Custom made spacers to fill in the gaps and that did the job. 

    Well, i think ? I mean the wheel is centered, the chain is straight ? 

     

    I think... O.oxD

    A 93 isnt a slabside

  18. 44 minutes ago, Joseph said:

    But of course it was your bike i seemed to remember having seen the set up on.

    Trawling through the net i found that the swingarm widths are the same pretty much between slabside and slingshot, but its good to see how you've done it.

    On my 5.5 inch conversions i took out the studs and bolts and used hex screws, that gave clearance because the studs didn't clear the swingarm with the wheel centered, but i didn't sink the sprocket carrier inside. I did have it shaved down the to outside edge of bearing face (gained 7mm) and used a sealed bearing since the o ring seal recess had been shaved off the carrier in those 7 mm

    I think i also used a spacer on the front sprocket. Don't know if the slab frame allows that ?

    Worth measuring your standard sprocket offset from wheel centre, getting K-series wheels to fit slingshots involves a lot of work as there is 10mm difference. IIRC slabbies sprocket offset is less than slingy. Its a lot of offset to make up.

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