[New clutch plates, still slipping]

13 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:

Before testing steels individually, pile them up and look for daylight. If fubarred, go for the OEM. 

Thanks Toni. I used EBC frictions before and they were total shite so I always use OEM friction plates, but wasn't sure if the general opinion was the same for the steels. Good tip on checking for warpage!

 

[New clutch plates, still slipping]

The #7 friction plate was installed first as per the manual.

I wasn't aware that there were different thickness of steel plates as I've never changed them. I'll have to check those again and I'll do the plate on glass check to see that they're not warped. If they are ok, is there a specific order they need to go back in?

If I'm buying new steel plates, is there any recommendation for the brand or do I just stick with OEM like the friction plates?

[New clutch plates, still slipping]

Hi folks, After a few weeks of Doris' clutch starting to slip on 4th and 5th, I bit the bullet and installed new (OEM suzuki) friction plates last weekend. I reinstalled the steels as they looked OK and changed the oil to fresh 10-40w semi synth as usual.

Well bugger me if the clutch slip isn't as bad if not even worse. I managed to get it slipping in 3rd last night as well.

Doris is a fat ole mare so she has a heavier Barnett spring in the clutch already.

I was wondering is there a special way the plates need to be installed, a mark on the plates that needs to be lined up for example? I installed the last plates myself a couple of years ago and had no issues.

How many sets of friction plates would I need to go through before the steel plates start to give up the ghost?

TIA...

[Fitting shrouded oil lines]

Thanks guys,  looks like leaving a bit of the tape on is the easiest way to go.

[Fitting shrouded oil lines]

10 minutes ago, Wee Man said:

Leave some of the tape on. Stops the braids splitting apart.

Dunno why I assumed it would need to come off. That worked. Thanks Wee Man. 

[Fitting shrouded oil lines]

Evening all. I bought lines and fittings to add to my gsx750f trike project, but I can't get the bastid lines into the fittings as the stainless braid opens out. I bought the correct diameter for 8an fittings and use tape wrapped around it to cut it, but when I take off the tape I cannot get the fitting to go over it with or without huge amounts of cussing and hollering. Any advice gents? 

[Teapot oil cooler question]

1 hour ago, MeanBean49 said:

Rotate standard by 90 degrees?

Oooh, interesting! Nice bit of outside the box thinking! 

[Teapot oil cooler question]

I don't mind keeping the same volume/area, as long as it's narrower. The standard cooler is nearly as wide as the back end! 

And yes, I'm in Norn Iron (Northern Ireland) and it does rain a lot, but this ride will see very little of that sort of thing.

[Teapot oil cooler question]

Hi gents (and gentesses). I'm building a HUC outlaw trike using a '97 GSX750F engine. The front end is going to be quite skeletal, small tank, girder forks etc, but the standard oil cooler looks like a bloody sail, plus its been well battered so I'm hoping to replace it with something narrower. 

Would it be OK to run a smaller oil cooler, especially as the engine and cooler are going to be totally exposed?  or maybe use a narrower 16 or 19 row cooler?

 

Thanks in advance.