Fredrik_Steen
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Posts posted by Fredrik_Steen
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Since you use EFI i would say go for compression and if necessary drop the ignition timing some degrees when pushing high boost on pump fuel.
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Maxpeedingrods are excellent value for money and they will outperform what the gearbox can hold.
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Works great, no issues at all
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8 hours ago, badger said:
Vents fine.
Fuel flow drops of a cliff. Doesn't return until I've pulled the pump housing apart and started over. Short trip on the bike and it vanished again
It might be cavitation due to not enough flow into the pump / some kind of restriction. When the pump cool off it works again for some time.
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Are you loosing pressure after 5 minutes or what is the issue?
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4 hours ago, Arttu said:
Care to explain? Based on maps that I found it might be slightly on large side, depending on which map you believe. But still my flow estimations for 0.5 to 1.5 bar boost range seems to fit quite nicely on the map. And in practise it seems to work fine too. Although, if good response is preferred over maximum power a smaller TD06-16 variant might be a better choice.
Of course if you mean the absolutely best by "best choice" I agree It's a budget choice after all, especially when using those cheap copies. But most likely works just fine any ways.
Yes i based my recommendation on this map ( I added two red dots). And a estimation that he will be pushing around 2 bar to get 360ish hp without intercooler. I think this turbo are more suited for a stronger/more tuned base engine
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1 hour ago, Jdeac said:
I'm still trying to absorb the info on maps etc. The previous owner of the motor I have claimed it was around the 150 ish bhp mark. Before going low comp for turbo etc.
I don't have an intercooler on my build. But have been looking at the possibility of having one.
What's the thoughts on this turbo??
I'm guessing it's the maxspeeding brand you are looking at. It's cheap
Looking at similar compressor maps I don't think it's the best choice out there for your application.
If you still have stock b12 camshafts in the engine I think 150ish are a bit optimistic.
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8 hours ago, Jdeac said:
This is what I'm trying to work out the housing sizes.
I get the basics but say gt2860r OK it's then the numbers (ar) where I'm getting lost. .60 .70 .80 hot side cold side
Like I was told by a turbo builder. Holset he221w good for 280bhp but then there is 5,6,7cm etc sizes
I'll keep watching. And try grasp it.
It's hard to say what a turbo are "good for" It depends on your engine combination. In your case I would calculate with a 120hp engine. At one bar it will produce 240hp. Two bar = 360hp if the exhaust back pressure are kept in check and the intercooler can support the heat. Roughly estimations, but gives you a idea when you check compressor maps
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If you can afford it I would go ball bearing, journal's flow a lot of oil (that oil you want to keep in the crankshaft bearings)
Learn how to read compressor maps, I like this channel
They have several videos on the topic
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On 10/11/2022 at 10:50 PM, Alex said:
A well know turbo conversion company has put a spacer plate in but hasn’t altered the cam timing to compensate. Will it make much difference to performance?
It's not optimum. Like Gixer1460 said get slotted sprockets
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29 minutes ago, Alex said:
Hello all. Dose a base plate spacer alter the cam timing? Eg when you put busa rods in. Thanks Alex.
Yes, a 2mm spacer will do about 6 degrees
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21 minutes ago, Baron said:
I'm also going to put APE studs on mine, where can you get those hardened washers?
I got mine locally here in Sweden by a steel company. The washers are minimum 45 HRC
Dimensions was 10.4 x 20,4
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On 9/25/2022 at 6:14 PM, rerb said:
When you wound them in without bottoming them out, did you still get them to 15ft lbs? And to make sure, the nuts torque to 42 ft lbs, right? APE says that but since the hg mightve been loose I just want to verify.
I torque to 50-55 ft lbs lubed (depending on the feel in the handle) you can't use the oem washers Steel and copper. They are to soft and you will loose tension. Buy special hardened washers
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What are your favourite myths on turbo or suzuki oilcooled engines?
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On 9/10/2022 at 12:09 PM, Gixer1460 said:
With respect, those aren't big numbers compared to a performance NA cam set - 256 deg is little more than std and they've spread the LCA - always advisable with boost to reduce overlap. As a comparison my Krol cam specs are 248 deg in / 245 deg ex, 9.3mm lift, with 111 deg in / 109 deg ex. I guess if (like you) you are intending to make huge boost, higher lift numbers are required, which by necessity / geometry, will increase duration. The cams i've quoted were designed for my engine spec - by people a damn sight brighter than me - so I trust they could deliver the ultimate target (which unfortunately is less than you've achieved LOL!) But generally the advice stands - shorter duration with less overlap and highest lift possible, will suit a boosted package that max's out at a lower rpm.
I'm more interested in low boost and big HP numbers. Efficiency and a good base engine
I also agree that high lift and shorter duration are the way too go if the NA engine likes it. But I don't believe that the boost will go straight into the exhaust if you have a little more duration.
The reason I have the specific camshafts are that they where on the shelf when I was going to buy and I didn't want to wait for other grinds to be manufactured. But they work great.
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12 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
MTC advertise cr 10.0:1 for the pistons I use But the cylinder and head has been resurfaced two times so probably i got a little bit CR
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31 minutes ago, Reinhoud said:
2 valve heads have more lift then 4 valve heads?
With high lift automaticly comes more overlap? I guess?
Just thinking, sse a lot of modern bikes with turbos, more modern bikes have more lift and overlap then the oldies..
What works NA also works with boost.
There are plenty of test's out on Youtube on the topic.
I run this camshafts that has a lot of duration with good results
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27 minutes ago, rider384 said:
I'm super skeptical that the turbos will hit 400whp on their own without some help, but we'll see. Looking at the compressor map, it should be possible but it just comes down to controlling the heat and detonation. The compressors might be out of their efficiency range to the point that the heat will be too much for any motorcycle-sized intercooler to effectively control.
Though if it comes down to that, I have an Eaton M62 ready to be installed and fed via the turbos for a compound boost setup. That's a bit further down the line though, and dependent on me not sending a rod into the stratosphere with just the turbos.
Do you have the compressor map for your turbo to upload here?
That ones i found on Google seems to only support about 1,8bar
Think you will be looking at a water to air intercooler system for your setup.
The rods you have are awesome
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Looking at the compressor map for the K04-015s you are on the edge. A decent work on cylinderhead would be nice so you don't need to push beyond 2bar. A lot and a lot of intercooling are a big must.
ignition retard are your best friend to reach your goals. Don't push to mutch boost in the peak torque curve - be wise with your boost controller.
You really don't want the rings to bottom up at any point
Nice experiment you are running, keep us updated with progress later on
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On 2/11/2022 at 12:23 AM, rider384 said:
Luckily I'm already running EFI by way of GSXR throttle bodies and a microsquirt, which I did specifically to gain control of the spark. I believe it is capable of controlling boost as well, but I'll have to look into that. Worst case I get a standalone boost controller. Thanks for the heads up on the washers, I'll add those to my order as well.
Good to know. Luckily I didn't pay for the copper one, it came with my pistons. I'll order up an MLS one instead as you and Fredrik have recommended.
I ordered my washers from Daniel Leander on facebook, he makes for Hayabusa and Bandits. APE doesn't make washers unfortunately.
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You need to change the washers in the head when you use CHN1000K nuts. The stock ones will just deforme and lose claming force.
Ignition curve you need to be abel to controll.
Boostcontroller, you need to be abel to contoll boost around torque max. Torqe kills engines.
I would go for a MSL gasket, not cooper.
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1 hour ago, gtecomp said:
Thanks for advice. I've checked your thread twice, but....can you show which page was installation shown?
Found a really old picture in my Phone
I use what we call "Tredobricka" in Swedish. A Steel/rubber washer from the hydraulic world on both sides on the cover.
Grind some fin's of the cover to get a nice sealing surface.
A standard cherry red sensor, 1mm from the exhaust lobe. Don't forget to account for the sealing between the cover and head when the cover are torqued down.
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turbo build 2023
in Forced Induction
Posted
Best feeling when it finally runs and idle