rider384

NGK JR9B, stock spark plugs for the Bandit 1200. Not sure if there are resistors in there, but it's stock spark plugs, stock wires, stock coils. If they're supposed to be there, they're probably there as I didn't change anything except the control method. As an aside, the bike ran great on the stock ignition system and carburetors, the problem only started when I converted it to MS. Hence why I'm tempted to swap back to the stock CDI box and run fuel-only MS for the sake of troubleshooting, maybe something broke in the swap. Plan for tomorrow is to verify fuel injector flow rates, check for spark above 3k rpm, and if that checks out, order some LS1 coils so I can eliminate the ignitors and coils from the list of suspects.

Update: Verified that the coils are good; primary circuits were 3.5ohms, secondaries were 34.6k and 34.8k ohms. Verified that the VR sensor is wired with the correct polarity. Verified that the spark plugs and wires are tight. Verified timing again just for kicks. Verified that the throttles are all opening evenly. Battery charged to a full 13.8v. Still the problem persists. I'm wondering if it's a problem with one of the junkyard ignitors I'm running - perhaps one is too weak to spark properly above a certain RPM? Not sure how to test that. Still no progress other than checking things out. I'm tempted to convert the MS to run fuel only temporarily to see if the problem persists. Still at a bit of a loss as to what to do. Probably going to order some VW stick coils or LS1 coils soon and swap them out, just to rule out weak spark. But I really hate to throw money at it when I don't know what the problem is. I'm wondering about stupid things now, like the MS spark output failing above a certain RPM and things like that.

Hi all, posting to introduce myself. I already found my way to the FI forum as I'm having some issues with my Turbo Bandit 1200 with an EFI conversion. I worked as a mechanic before going back to school for mechanical engineering and I have fairly extensive history with modifying vehicles. I had a '96 turbo Miata making 240rwhp, a 600hp Audi A6 2.7t, a '91 Jetta ice racer, tuned for several friend's turbo cars, and a bunch of motorcycles. Currently in the middle of the largest undertaking I've ever done, which is my Bandit 1200 turbo project. I bought the bike for $950, gave it some love, and turbo'd it with straight pipe, a miter saw, a welder, and a Chinese K03 for $600. It ran alright on the carbs, pulled hard, but I deal with altitude change and could never get it perfect so I decided to swap to EFI. Did it similarly as cheap as possible with a microsquirt and GSXR600 throttle bodies. It runs, but it runs like shit. Idles and free-revs great, but as soon as a load is demanded it starts running like garbage, I think it's dropping cylinders. Here to try and figure out why, and hopefully pass on some of my knowledge. I wrote a short(ish) guide on the physical aspects of the EFI conversion, you can find it here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1SW7dXbRBW5xwKMgGEPro1O0gS8Qw5KvwAWtGAYwlEWg/edit?usp=sharing Anyways, thanks for having me, I'm looking forward to getting to know the members here.

Idle is fine and throttle response is great when free revving. It feels like it's dropping cylinders as soon as I demand a load from it. Wondering if one of my coil packs is going bad. Considering I don't know what you mean by measuring ignition timing on the proper side of TDC, I would say that there's about a 50% chance that I did . I'm running a custom trigger wheel with no timing marks, keyed so it only sits in one position. Found TDC with a TDC tool, marked the trigger wheel and a spot on the engine with a sharpie, and timed it from there at 0* spark advance until it was dead on. EDIT: Do you mean TDC on the compression stroke? If so, I didn't even check to be honest, I didn't think it would make a difference since the wheel and crankshaft turn at a 1:1 rate.

Hi everyone, first post here. Sorry if this is the wrong forum, but it seems like most EFI talk is focused here. Long story short, I have a Bandit 1200 turbo, factory sealed engine, K03 at 7psi, probably 160ish whp, nothing crazy (for now). It was running alright on the factory carbs, but I could never get it perfect and I deal with altitude change so I swapped it to EFI. EFI specs: -Microsquirt 3.0 running hybrid alpha-n -K1 GSXR600 throttle bodies and injectors -Stock Bandit coils and plugs run by MS via 2x Audi 2.7t ignitors -Inline fuel pump being run at 50psi The problem I'm having is that it's dogshit slow. Unironically, my '75 CL360 would smoke it in a straight line. AFR is acceptable, not perfect (12:1-14:1 at WOT, needs work but isn't far enough out to cause it to only have what feels like 20 horsepower). Timing has been verified with a timing light, but I think something funky is going on with it; the manufacturer of my trigger wheel told me that 1st tooth BTDC is 348*, but I had to set it to 4* to make it fire at actual top dead center (found with TDC tool, 0* cranking advance to check timing marks I made). Stockish Bandit timing curve, 13* at idle ramping up to 35* by 4,000ish RPM. It will build boost, but I currently have the wastegate hanging open so I can tune the alpha-n portion of the map. I'm kind of lost on what to do from here; I've verified that all cylinders have spark, all cylinders are getting fuel, plugs look good and consistant, throttles are opening all the way, spark plugs are tight, grounds are good, battery is charged, etc. It sounds like it's dropping cylinders under load, which points me towards ignition issues. Have people run stock Bandit coils on MS without issue before? Everything I've read has painted it to be a mixed bag, and I'm close to throwing a COP ignition system at it to see if it solves the issue, but I'm hesitant to throw money at the issue without knowing what it is.