Swiss Toni

Try both Robinsons. If not in stock, they'll be able to order them. Start saving your pennies up now, they 'ain't cheap!

......or Toni!

A good job well done.

These collar nuts on '85 Slabbie fairings. Used for bolting top, sides and belly pan together. Can they be removed without cracking the panels, or should I leave well enough alone? Getting paintwork done shortly. Was originally blue/white, but I quite like the red/ black combo too!

Oh, and...hello!

Or get in touch with Suzuki? If this 'Type Approval' is a bi-annual thing, and you're happy to continue using the 1100 wheel, I'd buy and fit a 750 wheel, get it approved, then put your 1100 wheel back in when the TA guys have gone back into the woodwork!

G'day, Syncro. Welcome!

Agree 100% with say what now!?! Always stick labels on un-finished jobs. Saves a lot of hassle in the long run. Glad to hear you're getting on top of it!

Cheaper option would be Paraffin. Put it in a spray bottle and go mad. And I mean MAD!!! You need loads of fluid in there. I had a problem along the same lines. I dropped the sump of my 1127 motor to find lumps of the starter motor cover in it. 13 bits, to be precise! There appeared to be no damage, but once the seed's been planted...full strip! The more time you spend now in getting the swarf out,the better. If, on the other hand, the motor's previously had oil in it, and not waiting for fresh oil after a rebuild, I'd personally strip and wash it all out again! I know it's expensive, and a pain in the arse, but...can you live with it? Lots of luck!

You can do it yourself if you've access to welding gear. The small bearing sleeve with the two lugs on it? If you fab up lugs very slightly longer, you raise the ride height. It's a bit 'Trial & Error'. But, after you do it the first time, you'll know if you've gone too long! So, just tack things up to begin with, until you're happy with the height. You could make a pair up with multiple holes at different centres, pick the height you're comfortable with, then fab up a pair to that length. Saves you making a few sets! However, it might make the handling more 'squirrelly' if you've stuck with the 16" front. Good excuse to go 17". Sorry I can't be more specific, but I did this years (and I mean Donkeys) ago, and the exact measurements are lost in time! I do remember though, a little extra length gives a lot! Be conservative! Maybe when you're successfull, you'll post the length up for the next man? I'm sure I have a spare linkage somewhere if you want to experiment, and not bugger yours up?

No 'photo's.....it didn't happen!

Aye up Florence.....

Not bad, but pricey. I take it that's a photo of the underside of yours? Can you put a pic up of the other side?

Hello and welcome to OSS!

I'm not surprised! I'll have a look at that Motogpworks, Manxzookie. Cheers lads!

The Tank Shop???? He had my Mag2 frame, engine and 36mm Flatslides for a year. He made an electrics tray that didn't fit, a tank that looked nothing like what I asked for, was a piss poor fit anyway. My carbs were full of cement when I finally got them back. I wouldn't trust the man. Every time I called him, he had some excuse. Twat!

Welcome to this side of the pond! You're gonna love it in here!

Kick that idea into touch then. Bugger!

Looking to fit similar type filler to big UK spec ET tank. Has anyone on here done it? Any 'photo's? Where can these fillers be got?

I agree with Dezza. Find another wheel. By the time you factor in machining and sleeving costs, it's not worth the hassle. Different if you're talking Dymag or Marchesini's.

No probs mate! PM me your email, and I'll see if I can send you the PDF manual!

SAE10. 407ml or 141mm air gap.

Sorry for the hijack Sander, but what's the length of those GSX1400 shocks Tony?

+1.

Decide what you want to change. Check part no's on yours and donor bikes microfische's to confirm similarities. Or not?