Swiss Toni

@E TThanks for the offer! I’ll see what I can turn up here first, if I wreck them.

@Upshotknothole it’s listed in the US as $30. I shudder to think what we’ve got to stump up!

I’ve ‘aquired’ a set of what I believe are 750 J/K or L forks. I’ve freed off all the pre-load and compression adjusters, but the rebound adj. on the top fork nut is solid! By the state it’s in, it’s been that way for a while. It’s mullered, and I might be wrong, but it looks as if it brass. The slot’s just about had it, so I don’t want to put an excessive amount of weight on it. Any ideas how to get it moving, or out altogether?

Might be worth checking the clutch centre nut’s still tight and tabbed up.

@ralNowt int manual. PDF emailed.

The air gap is fixed. It can’t be adjusted. Rotor is fixed to crank, stator to case. No facility to adjust. Nothing you can slot. I’ll have a look in the OE manual for you when I sort your wiring diag. out.

Can’t understand that! It should only move positively when it rotates on the clutch pressure plate pinion, pulling the pressure plate towards the clutch outer cover. In so doing, relieving the weight on the clutch plates. So under tension all the time. NO ‘flopping about’. It is the correct pressure plate pinion? And, as duckndive says, did you re-fit the spring spacers? There’s something wrong that’s not right!

The splines on the operating shaft in the clutch centre need to be facing the rear of the engine. To make things easier, take the operating arm off the clutch cover. Offer the cover up to the engine, turning the splined shaft on the cover until the cover is home. Replace cover bolts. Replace arm … and Robert’s your Mothers Brother!

Cheers, Gents!

@fatblokeonbanditAnd what about the Slingy motor? Will the carbs be a problem?

@fatblokeonbanditWill the 1100 Teapot engine go straight into the Mk1 B6 engine mounts? Alternatively, will a 750 Slingshot motor do likewise? No carb/frame problems with the Dot head?

And very nice she is too! Welcome!

There you go, then. Piece of piss! Told ya!

Not so unusual. I’ve got an engine with 18k on it, and the bores have only .0015” to go!

Just a thought … you did fit the rings the right way up, didn’t you?

Once you get a bit of movement, the battle’s won. Give it a go.

Put a big screwdriver down the tube, and start levering it carefully in all directions. Clean the holes in the case out carefully (stuff some rag in first) use only genuine Suzuki o rings, put a dab of grease on them before fitting. And welcome.

No leads???

Anyone know a source of good (OE) quality pistons rings? I’ve heard of a Japanese company who do good stuff, at a fraction of OE prices.

The 850 top end will fit the 750, but I think the 750 onto the 1000 might be a non-starter. Might be wrong? A grown up will be along shortly! And welcome, by the way.

Well, the head will hold it down ok. How about cleaning it off, and putting a few dabs of bearing retainer or similar on it?

Then, put the stud in the vice, and take the nut off. Check case threads, clean stud threads. Lock two nuts together and replace stud.

Welcome, Dave! Get ya photies up!

PM,d.

US tank tapers at rear. Less capacity.