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Joseph

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Posts posted by Joseph

  1. 4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    I'm wary about using 4 or 5 deg advancers - not a thing that works with higher CR's nor piss weak fuel and can make starting a chore if battery is a bit dickie!

    The one i make is adjustable from -5 to +5 

    • Like 1
  2. It required quite an effort, the glue must be something like windshield glue, its very sticky and will stay on your skin, then the whole thing is hot so not great to hold tight.

    Then the trick is to lever it out without deforming the plastic frame which of course is warmed up and malleable.

    To be fair, when i did it, it was to put in that custom light and re fit the glass.

    In your case i'd heat it up to soften the glue enough, then put it in a bag, smash the glass with a heavy hammer and then you can easily take out the parts from the frame without putting too much pressure on the plastic 

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, wraith said:

    Just to double check, the slabside had just one fuel outlet and the slingshot had two fuel outlets.

    Mine is the two outlet type :D

    Yes, the 34mm carbs have a single fuel inlet spigot cast into the body of carb no. 3 (i think) whereas on the following racks the fuel plugs into the pair of plastic t pieces that bridge each pair of carbs

    • Like 1
  4. On 2/24/2024 at 7:43 PM, Loudpipes said:

    I've got a renthal 44 alloy rear sprocket but wonder if a steel one would be better ???

    I now only use Supersprox on mine, they make steel teeth sprockets riveted to an aluminium rotor, very good value/quality/lightweight and of course they take custom orders (for example here a Ducati 749 rim for my 1100R, standard sprockets off the shelf for those stop at around 40 teeth)

    IMG-20231020-WA0003.jpg

    And to run proper gearing on a slabside rim with 1127 engine i needed to have one made

    IMG-20240305-081407.jpg

    • Like 3
  5. 8 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:

    I'm guessing the weight savings in the headlight was noticeable with it off the bike once the glass was removed.

    I think it weighs something like 8 kilos ? The glass is around 8 or 9 mm thick it's very heavy indeed

    9 hours ago, Upshotknothole said:

    They're similar enough that the job will be the same and I found the 91 M headlight cover on that site

    Best to use the right one though, it'll just slip into the fairing hole and can rest against the plastic headlamp frame too, then you can make a period style fixing of it onto the fairing

    IMG_20240304_082848.thumb.jpg.98661b9a5bd973f966463494a5efc04e.jpg

    • Like 3
  6. Spatulas for plasterwork are a good tool for the job (a couple of narrow 1-½ inch wide blades) it's a difficult job to do even once heated up, that glue wasn't designed to leave its place

    Propane heater should be good. A heat gun won't allow heating of the whole thing, and you really want to get it all up to temp evenly all round (the heat gun is also too hot for the needs of the job)

    I put the oven on at 210-220°C to do mine

    IMG-20210207-005109.jpg

    Just noticed you have the american 92 bike, the link i posted is for the WC '92

    • Like 1
  7. Chemical polishing (?) Could be ideal for our frames, it passivates alloys to prevent any corrosion (up to 10 years supposedly) and you can get it to as shiny as you want. The chemical compound seals the finish

    However i suppose it would be a budget and like chrome you need to find the guys who have a big enough tank

    PC is good but thick as we have all seen, but it's probably the most cost worthy and durable finish for a bike that you want to use a lot

  8. 3 hours ago, alfiestorm said:

    I would recommend getting it dyno'd, at least then you will know the true power of the bike and the mixture settings through the rev range will be good and safe. Cost me £185 to have it set up on the dyno.

    Yes that is definitely the plan once it's back together, every engine is different, one of those things where it's "same not the same" :tu

    • Like 1
  9. Indeed that chamfer deal.

    However it's funny because the ignition pick up plate is the same part number for absolutely every single oil cooled bike from 1985 to 2008, except the RK.

    Maybe it's made of alloy or something ?

    Didn't hear back from the guy who bought one of my adjustable plates so i'm guessing it fitted fine

    • Like 1
  10. It's "easily" done, but it's a bit of work and head scratching

    You need to fit correct bearings to the rim (smaller spindle on the W, obviously)

    Compatible bearings are available, that match the OD of the rim bearing and OD of the spindle.

    Then its a question of fitting the rim, and centering it in regards to the frame and front wheel ( !!! The centerline of the rear wheel spindle is NOT lined up with the centerline of the bike !!! )

    And once that is sorted you mesure up the spacers you need to fill in the gaps and get them done

    Offset sprocket like @george 1100mentioned, it should need 5mm if i remember right ?

  11. Relocate the ECU starter relay and especially fuse box (for easy access) to under the seat and get a smaller expansion tank from a 50cc liquid cooler scooter. 

    Most bikes leave the factory with accessibility, ergonomics and ease of maintenance properly addressed during the R&D phase.

    Can't complain if stuff gets a bit awkward when trying to fit non standard stuff to it

    ;)

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