Blubber

Please step back and look at what you are trying to do. increasing that value lowers the fluid level. Carefully study enclosed picture to understand what i am saying.

FFS... Please tell me you did not just register so you could ask this? Quick intro to OSS: If we use / buy bandits, they mostly end up as donor bikes to upgrade 1980's era bikes. Other options on OSS; modify the shit out of them, race them, turbo them, put NOS om them and such. Now that is clear, my advice would be this: Show us your project and you will eventually get a wiring diagram. Or use the bandit owners club / Google to find a downloadable version. HTH

Thanks for confirming the date Stroopwafel Chapter needs to start counting head then @Rene EFE

You realise we can give you warning points for talking shite like that? No....seriously

Please try the bandit owners club for that kind of advice This is OSS, only heavily modified bandits are allowed on here. So break it, turbo it, put it in a ET frame

My experience is that the starter motor will be fine but the lead from the solenoid to the starter needs to be upped in size by one step.

Or use the @membersname function. @Spirit

I noticed that it sold. At €2495 i expected it to last longer / get another price drop. Hope is what you expect of it. Enjoy your spannering

Have you trick more dense foam or adding foam to the seat? Might be another method of raising the ride height

Yes , it has been asked before. The general consensus is that the stock airbox is the best option. If not possible the most favourable option appears to be to use the oem airbox rubbers with a foam type filter. Yes, you need to go up in main jet size. Yes, you need to book dyno time / a rolling road operator to get a decent air / fuel ratio. To change the jets you need to remove the float bowl to be able to access them for removal and installation. That's loosen and tighten 16 JIS ( not Philips) screws made out of cheese . I think it is safe to say... No: Stop being lazy and remove the carbs to be able to work on them in a decent manner. No, we can not guess the final outcome of the jet size. Disclaimer... fuel is flameable. Only dick around with it in a well ventilated area.

So it is just about getting the speed sensor to work? It just needs 4 pulses per revolution of the output shaft. You need something to mimic that rotor and get a castelated nut / castle nut or a slotted nut. i modified a standard EFE sprocket nut to work on my EFE engine with GSXR1000 clocks/ gauges The modification i made was to weld the new style rotor on the OEM EFE nut with a spacer to clear the output shaft thread and get into the sensor range. Sadly no pictures of it anymore - in 2008 i used PB to host my pics and i closed that account. HTH

I think my real dad is Bender from Futurama but my mom begs to differ

Think i need to convert most of the listed bikes to a factory "Twin Shock Edition" ... or just read the lbs as kilo's.. then i am Ok

Wait...you think your turbo is too high for a good gravity drain? Maybe a picture will help.

This is a 5yo thread, the topic starter has not been on here since august 2017. I would not expect an answer from him. Other might chime in

It should have read "Valve lift / cam lobes ok" . A worn camshaft lobe or camshaft profile will result in a weird running bike because the valve will open less. Happy hunting

I have -recently- not gone through your previous attempts to fix this but here are a few pointers: Compression ok? Valve clearance ok? Valve lift / caml obe ok? Have you checked the carb top for cracks or leaks? / is the o-ring installed ( if applicable )? Is the carb diaphragm pinched, ruptures or even a pinhole->easiliy overlooked If you connect vacuumgage 3 on 4.. do you get the same results? Have you bench sync the carbs prior to this result? HTH to keep you sane

Based on the engine year ( and your forum name ) you are looking for a new crankshaft for a 1135CC EF aka a GS1150. The ES designation might fool others and might have you ending up with a 1075cc version. - Are you looking for a EU delivery address to forward it again or advice on a forwarding service? If you are asking for the part from a member, this would need to go in the Marketplace which you can not access yet due to your post count.

They look a bit like a Marving Mach inspired system. "293958126979" to give you an idea

I vaguely remember pushing the airbox rubbers in to get more wiggle room. I cannot remember if that was a succes but hey... we still had Guilders back when i owned a ET

That is not the update i was hoping to see Lucky B...imota.

In the link R1GUY posted, the current seller had the intention on cleaning up the welds on the head stock. It doesnt look that happened. From what i see it has no registrations of paperwork. Without that... it is track day use only. I think that would put me off. I doubt getting it registered as a road bike is easy otherwise it would have it already

And i will point you to the rules. Please have a look at them and post a intro about you and bike. Thank you

Rami, you need to turbo and wide wheel it. Like the one you regret selling

It probably wont show up for Tony due to shipping limitations set by the seller. 312000529087 is the listing numper Joseph posted Direct link