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94RF1146

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Everything posted by 94RF1146

  1. I wouldn't worry too much about piston speed. Our 200-300g piston is nothing compare to those promod piston combo... https://rehermorrison.com/tech-talk-80-getting-to-know-nitrous/ Cheers, MM
  2. Here's mine , lots of grinding and 40 thou shaved from the on rod bolts to fit 65mm crank & Carillo rods.
  3. Bearings maths done. Ready to order. 2 thou on mains / 2.5 thou on rods ( all green).
  4. Front & rear wheel bearings done. Next is stem bearing this weekend. Rod & main bearings later. 2 thou on the mains & 2.5 thou on the rods. 20/50 oil with zzdp. Here's my tech sheet with example for 3 different oil clearance. That's how I do it. If that can help someone... Cheers. M.
  5. Winter project... The watercooled 79.5mm piston kit is well known for not holding water in NA form, imagine under 30+ lbs of boost. So I decided to go with a Mallory 110gph pump I had. I'm doing mockups with a hurt head that dropped a valve in 2010. The plan is too keep the head and block deck dry while remaining them watercooled. I use baking soda as a filler and will use Chris Boyette expoxy kit that the Gurls blouse car guys are using. Coming in from the water pump to the factory coolant ports in the front of the block > out the back of the block to the side of the cylinder head using -8 fittings > out back of the head factory coolant port > radiator cap / CLT sensor > radiator in tail > out radiator back to water pump. Guys in Outlaws back in the days were going all dry or keeping water in the head. I don't like the heat generated by the dry block. Keeping both in my project. I'll post pics when the motor is on the motor stand later. M.
  6. I got the water pump brass freeze plug from a FORD 351 Cleveland kit. 1 1/2" does the job. M.
  7. Yes but not really necessary. It can circulate by convection. !/4 mile bike.
  8. I decided to removed the water pump and block it off with a brass freeze plug. That way oil & coolant will never contaminate each other. Awaiting for the freeze plug. M.
  9. Now having water pump issues. Shaft is bad and seals are busted. I was getting coolant(water) in the oil and leaking out water at the pump. Awaiting a friend for his water pump and ordered parts to rebuild mine. My 400 LPH fuel pump support 340 LPH @ 30 psi... Last dyno graph when I spit #2 spark plug. 30 psi boost cut. recorded 37 psi. Guess what, peak torque x rpm (9500) / 5252 = food for thought... Off season scope: - Water pump issues - Relocate wastegate / turbo / up-pipe - Swap 4 inputs - Head steam bearing replacement - Extend wheelbase 4" - Learn Maxx ECU - Testing & clutch setups
  10. Update... I replaced the head gasket, removed all the coolant and associate components. Now dry block. Also installed a scavenge pump. My oil level was just 3/4 below the turbo centerline. Had oil in the exhaust. Problem fixed (temporarily for one more race). Got idea for boost creep problem... A 90* + a 45* pipe and associate V-band (3). M
  11. Yes, I'll look into it. Replaced the plugs and changed the oil. Went to the track again but didn't run. Got the symptoms of blown head gasket. White puff at start-up and sweet smell. No big deal, season is over. I'll replace it, copper coat it and go dry block. No more issues. It doesn't stress me out at all. M
  12. Hi 1460, I found the plug sitting on top of the motor like that !It just popped up under boost. The threads were still in the head and I was happy to see that the grounding strap was still there. I removed it using a flat blade. In couple hours I'll put CR9E I have, open the clutch pack and look at plates, put oil in it and start her up. My fuel system can support 600+ hp. My Garrett GTX3576R Gen 2 can support 750 hp. The clutch is my weakest point. There's nothing out there for watercooled GSXR-1100 motor.
  13. Arttu, the best we got was 387 hp. The dyno speed wasn't matching the gearing. I'll put longer bolts and more weight.
  14. Hi guys, Went to the dyno today... I set up the boost cut at 30 psi and saw 37.1 psi right after the boost cut. Then, something was wrong, strange noises and aborted the pull. Thought we had grenade the clutch basket but after investigation discovered that I was running on 3 cylinder. The clutch can't hold power with 5 washers on the arms. Had synthetic oil in the bike, I normally use Lucas 20/50 dyno oil. Air gap stayed the same at .120". Installing longer bolts and adding more weights for next dyno. Here's couple pics:
  15. In my build, I used the high performance intake cam (.383" lift) set at 111* and used my stock exhaust cam (.332" lift) set at 110*. But have a 3mm oversize exhaust valve & seat for flow. We'll see once I get the dyno results. * Richard Holdener video influenced my build. M.
  16. Hi guys." Went to T&T last Friday with "Pamela... Bike is 520 lbs. wet @ 68 1/2 " wheelbase. 2 batteries - 24V start. Bike is kicking my ass, had a 16lbs spring in the wastegate. Haven't made a full pass yet, have to let off. Haven't played with the clutch yet, going on a DynoJet dyno Thursday. Bike has 16/43 gearing on a 26.4" tall Shinko Reactor slick @ 14 lbs. of air. No traction issues. Only get 1 oz of clear liquid in my catch can after every pass. Wheelies, wheelies, wheelies..... Got all winter to figure out bike & ECU.
  17. Hi guys. Went to the track last night... I was afraid of my own creation ! lol Didn't really dump the clutch = slow ass 60 ft ( dragging on 2 step @ 5000 rpm) Did 2 passes : # 1 pass - some dumbass (me) forgot to turn on the co2 bottle for the air shifter = no shift = aborted pass #2 pass - still afraid to dump the clutch. Bike pulled hard to the left, got out of the groove and close to the median = aborted pass. Need to learn the bike. Going to a proper Test & Tune next Friday. The bike is a chick magnet....or it's my sexy Frenchie accent ??? lol People loved the bike. Will keep you updated
  18. Here's a reason why being so efficient...
  19. Gonna have to redesign this...
  20. Only thing in the catch can... Tire after dyno runs. Clutch was slipping...stack height went from 1.7800" to 1.700".
  21. No more tire slip. Just added a 4th washer on each arm. Changed the oil ( Lucas 20W50 with 3 squirt of ZDDP). Oil was milky, need to take some fuel off the table. Maybe 2-5 %. Plugs look good. That 38mm Tial wastegate doesn't do much, making 20 psi on a 10 lbs spring! I created a monster ! lol I think I got a bad wheel bearing on the brake caliper side in the back. I got the Brock Prostreet clutch mod for GSXR-1100. removed the convex washer and narrow fiber. Replaced by nrornal one. My stack height is 1.74" / air gap set at .110". Bike makes 2 lbs of boost @ 5000rpm.
  22. Hi all, Fresh Shinko Hookup Pro with 30 lbs installed on Pamela... I had 3 washers per arm on the lockup. We still have some slippage. Gearing in 4th is up to 160mph not 155.mph. We rev the bike to 11500 rpm. Dyno recorded 9755 rpm . 148 mph on 160 mph gearing is 7.5 % slippage . Coup\le minor issues like air fittings not holding air line, some ECU programing. I have to check the clutch, stack height, air gap & add a washer on each arm. It was a good day today, can't wait to see what it does at 30 lbs of boost. Big thank to Steve Abussini for his time. That's it for now . MM
  23. Arttu, the speed recorded by the dyno was 108 mph. My tire went flat, no air!. We'll put it back on the dyno once I get my tire installed. I was expecting to get it back yesterday but that didn't happened. My bike is geared for 189mph in 5th right now (16/40). I'll play a lil with the 10 lbs spring power then we'll set up the boost per gear , crank it up to 30 lbs and log it. It's gonna be an animal! MM
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