Daveyboy

Did you clean out the small holes by butterfly's? I spray brake cleaner through carbs to make sure all ways are clear.might be worth trying putting your hand over carb intake while running to see if its shifts any blockage.compression test will eliminate valves also try swapping 2&3 plug leads and see if problems shift to cylinder 2 will eliminate plug/lead problem

My srad front end went straight in on my 750e just had to weld in a lock stop.theres a pic on my project build page

Maybe try running a external breather bottle/ catch tank to see how much oil is breathing from engine

PTFE tape will add to thread diameter and crack unions.prob better off fitting a new union.cup and cone face fit and nipped up gentley.ptfe tape is now an mot failure/illegal on hgv air brake systems because it leads to cracking alloy.im sure thread size is bsp.

I thought they were the same as well?? I know the 1100 has a longer rear arm than 750 maybe 750 forks were shorter?? Odd that! I'm sure someone on this knowledgeable site will be along soon.

I have a chopped rear subframe bandit frame if it helps you???

id use light grade loctite,then if you have to remove barrels or head in future the studs wont screw out,if you use high grade they can stick in pretty good then if you want to remove them any time theyll, be solid,good move on cleaning threads as ape studs can bind up if not cleaned !!!!

Nice bike that! I replace push rods with stainless rod cut to length.bit of grease on both ends.I've had cheap cables be tight in past esp when there curved around head stock.have you checked the actuator cam in cover for binding at all the balls can dislodge when the cam gets worn.cheers.

Wasn't there a test that found standard studs to be stronger??!

Yes I gave up on mine and used a bandit 600 wheel 160 tyre with gs500 carrier

Check wire from igniter unit to coil.also check you have 12volt feed to both coils

Wow that's a lot of turns out! I guess times have changed from the old ways lol.knew someone here would have correct info.

Im just in process of putting a bandit 6 wheel with 160 tyre in my gsx750.i put original bearings into b6 wheel and useing original caliper hanger.gs500e sprocket carrier.had to lathe down carrier spacer to get carrier into wheel were i need it.chain looks in line just gota make some spacers now to fill gaps.still early days mind.

Obviously sync balance carbs aswell

Id go for 1.5 turns and see how bike reacts from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle I've always used 1.5 as a starting point on standard jetting.

Are you running this bike on road?! Ive heard a r6 shock fits??.I've seen in past soft nylon discs slotted and put over piston rod.then held in with a cable tie to act as a bump stop when launching.stops shock bottoming out.

I'd go for 1.5 turns as a starting point.surely there's some info on google!!

I can't see that they'll be much different.the ECU plugs are same as ive even used a b6 ECU on gsxr11.

I have a 12 wheel on that site!! At mo if it'll help you out??

I had my last engine sump plugged and welded.then had a plug welded into rear of sump then drilled and tapped for a rear mount bung.smooths off bottom of sump.

Thanks for reply.im Gona go with a bandit 600 wheel in standard arm as I wanna get bike finished asap.the buss front end went straight in.just gotta weld on a lockstop when I get some might gas.

hi guys not been on here for a few years,used to be under another name and built a couple of turbo sprint bikes,if i remember the site shut down??,anyway i have just purchased a gsx750E mono shock 1983 and i wish to put a bandit1200 rear end in and a busa front end,the front isnt the problem,the back end ive searched through posts but can seem to find much in depth info??,the question is how do you get the arm to clear the foot rest mounts? also what shock & linkage is used? as ive removed all gsx stuff but no top shock mount is left? any info or links would be greatly appreciated,thanks davey.