kiwisuzuki1100nz

87 GSXR 1100. I have a headlamp loose and rattling because the plastic pivot is broken. Tried to see it in parts exploded diagram but it aint there. Essentially there is the finger screw adjuster and a philips head adjuster and then on the opposite diagonal a little plastic socket. My socket is semi busted so I am after hacks or fixes to secure the lamp plug to the socket. e.g. Drill a few holes and hold the lamp plastic rod in socket with some cable ties or rubber bands? Any hack suggestions?

ok SO the mickey mouse ears were good and the general rubber gasket. However all the gaskets (number 7) for large hex bolts number 5 were not installed and the gasket number 10 for hex bolt 8 are steel washers and not a gasket. I have ordered a complete new set as well as the head bolt gaskets. So I am hoping the oil when the engine was under high revs was pissing out the head bolts leaking down the spark wells and then spraying around once out the drain holes in the front of the engine. Lesson learnt. Now to loosen off head bolts and retorque them back down. Damn getting the rocket cover off with the engine in the frame was F*****g tight. I had to remove a mickey mouse ear to get a few mm to be able to clear the cam chain idler

Have a look at answers here -

Thanks I bloody hope so

I have breather hose and a catch can. taken it off ready to take of the cover. Hampton downs Auckland New Zealand

Oil on top of head

Thanks Ill check them, I did install new seals but possibly cocked it up

GSXR 87 1100. Running engine in, all fine. Got 400 kms on it and did an oil and filter change. No unexpected amounts of metal in oil or on sump plug magnet. Did the change as went to a track day to put some more kms on it. Came off track after 15 min session with oil everywhere, on my left leg leathers, fortunately not a gushing leak as nothing on track and no engine failure as such (Engine still runs fine no knocks or odd sounds). Was hard to see the source of the leak due to everything being lightly oiled, but can rule out or less likely. Oil cooler feed lines - dry Head Oil return lines as installed with new o rings Head oil supply lines as installed with new o rings 6 Head stud gallery orings were installed brand new with new head gasket Oil had pooled on the top of the head and in head bolt hex so figure oil has leaked out the front and blown over top of engine. I am thinking maybe: Head gasket leak due to bad head gasket (but this was installed branch new with engine) Head gasket leak due to head bolts loosened - I have not as yet done a tighten up since the install as was going to do this at 600 or 1000kms Possible a cylinder nut has let go on a stud that has the oil gallery supply Possibly cam chain tensioner gasket So ill strip off the fairing today, degreeze the engine , pop the rocket cover off and check the stud nuts and retorque, then go for a short ride and check for leak origin. Manual says - "First loosen and retighten the nuts to the specified torque with a torque wrench" IS that what you normally do - Loosen them all first and then retorque? or do most people just tighten and check the torque settings in the correct pattern? Any other suggestions for me to check? Ill post some photos off leak source after the ride

Ok Fixed. Culprit in photo. Rear left indicator corroded and some numpty wired the indicator incorrectly and it was shorting out.

Great idea Ill try that

ok not that I think as it has been working for quite sometime and I havent changed the bulbs

Hi, My right indicator works fine but my left doesnt and when I turn left on I can hear the turn signal relay chattering / buzzing like the relay isnt switching properly. So is this: Buggered turn signal relay - replace Loose wiring? Bad wiring? Anyone else had this happen before? NOTE: New wiring loom, left turn signal was working when I tested electrics during rebuild.

Ahh so I did screw it up. Not enough beer

Got the job done using a combination of ratchets ties down from ceiling beam and a trolley jack. Was a darn site easier than trying to muscle it in with just the trolley jack.

Found this handy.

mmmmMMM Beer

Anyone had better luck with the lying the engine on the side and lowering the frame over it? Just tried a trolley jack with bike in rear stand and it is a complete bastard to try and get back in as the engine wants to fall forward. Hence why I am keen to try the engine on its side and lower the frame on to it

I just used cable ties

ok so as long as I didn't dick with the signal generator position I should be fine? Happy to kick my own arse I am kinda pedantic and like to understand the relationship between TDC and cam position. Wasted spark ignition I get 1 and 4 fire but how do I get the timing between crank piston and cam accurate?

Sorry I know im gonna kick my own arse once I get the answer

Do I set piston 1 to TDC. Piston 1 being the left most piston when sittin on the bike?

1987 GSXR 1100H ok Been following manual but damn it covers camchain and camshafts but not where the crankshaft should be relative to them. I haven't removed the signal generator so how do I ensure that the crankshaft position relative to the camshafts is correct?

wow. Good lesson to learn and noted. Start with the basics and trust nothing

Yup its a lithium battery - thanks for the info

After advise, guidance and experience in racing without an alternator - GSXR 1100 H Looking at removing the alternator for race days, running on battery power and charging in between sessions. Apart from removing the alternator and using a good sealing blank is there anything else electrically wise that need to do?