kiwisuzuki1100nz
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Posts posted by kiwisuzuki1100nz
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These guys produce some nice rearsets - https://accbilletengineering.co.za/product-category/gsxr-pre-sling-slabside/
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Sorry a bit more context. I read the valves and or seats have a thin hardened layer and that lapping them in can wear through the layer so shouldnt be done.
Sounds like most do lap the valves in.
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I used a Yamaha YZFR1 YZF R1 1998 1999 2000 4XV Right Hand Switch
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Quick question. Is it ok to lap in slabbie valves with a light lapping paste?
Read a bit that says no, dont do it and other posts where people do.
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16 hours ago, Dezza said:
When the engine was rebuilt, did you replace the cam chain?
Hi @DezzaNo it wasnt changed, measured length to ensure it was in spec.
I assume if I end up looking at the big ends and splitting the case then that would be the perfect opportunity to put a new chain in.
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8 hours ago, dupersunc said:
Check the big ends.
Dang, hope I don't have to as haven't done it before. If I dont get anything with valves and springs I will look at that adventure
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Or you could look at an APE ST750 manual cam chain tensioner.
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So still trying to figure this out.
Torn it down and removed the head, going to check valve springs ok, Cam chain is fine and tensioner and guides. Having a look at the camshafts again the cam lobe profiles arent very even, one side is very steep. I am not familiar with how the cam lobe profiles should look.
Any thoughts on below? Do they look ok?
No ridges on the lobe faces
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Also does anyone use thread lock on the camshaft cap bolts?
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Hi,
GSXR 1100
Has anyone replaced the camshaft cap bolts?
Are OEM best or do most people just use high tensile steel cap screws?
Any change to torque settings or just follow the manual?
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Cam chain was tight and not loose. Idler sprocket bearings fine. All cam caps still tight no bolts broken. 1 cam bearing showing some blue so possibly a bit tight wit cam cap and binding and overheating.
No major galling on cam surfaces. Bit at a loss.
Any concerns looking at the photos?
Will look to spruce the cam chain tensioner.
Have a few cam caps to helicoil as cylinder head cover threads stripped on a few.
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4 hours ago, bluedog59 said:
The tappets are fine, compression is good and it performs fine. You can hear it is not running smooth at low revs so balance the carbs, check the cam chain tensioner is working properly and you have no exhaust leaks. With the carbs out of balance the load will cycle as it runs through the firing order and everything will "chatter". Even if it doesn't stop all the noise, at least you will be left with what is causing it and got rid of the background noise. Do the basics first before you go looking for doom and gloom ( I think we've all heard the one about the full engine rebuild when it was the keys rattling on the top yoke all the time ).
@bluedog59Thanks good advice. The carbs are flat sliders and chatter at idle, they have been balanced but will check again
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21 minutes ago, Hanma-shin said:
The bearing in the cam chain guide wheel.
@Hanma-shinDo you mean the wheel in the cam chain idler? Number 3 in the parts diagram
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Compression Test Results:
Manual Std Compression: 142 - 199 psi
Min: 114 psi
Max Variable: 28 psi
Bike Results Initial psi / Final psi
Cylinder 1: 140 / 178
Cylinder 2: 140 / 180
Cylinder 3: 140 / 170
Cylinder 4: 140 / 175
Keeping in mind it is an 1109 with high compression wiseco pistons. Also I haven't ever done a compression test on a slabbie but followed manual instructions
Diagnoses: Initial of 140 psi I will assume is great on first crank? If so valves are sealing well . Built to max pressure quickly so rings good. Variation within 10 psi so within spec and less than 10% variation.
So looks like rings and pistons fine and values sealing which leaves the possible noise source as maybe
- Cam shafts loose in caps - cap bolt loose or snapped
- Cam chain - Probably not - wrong noise
I'll drop the oil out of the engine next and then tear down the top and and check camshafts and cap journals etc...
Sweating that I have buggered cam journals
Anything else to check or consider?
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9 hours ago, Nik said:
My guess would be piston slap. How much was the piston to cylinder clearance when it was assembled?
Hi @Nik Bored and honed and 1109 piston kit fitted 6000 km ago bang on clearance. Very unlikely piston slap
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Thanks for all the suggestions, appreciated. The rattle is easier to hear with the 2 revs at 32 33 secs.
Ill do the compression test rule out ring and values, drop the oil and check,, pop the cam cover again and check cam chain tension and cam bolts.
I think this time ill actually pull the cams out checking the bolts and the bearing surfaces. Typical as I have a race in 4 weeks.
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Hi,
1987 GSXR 1100 - Engine has Wiseco pistons bored out to 1109. Done maybe 6000 kms since rebuild.
Std Cam and springs. Head had a bit of work with ports cleaned up. Idles fine, performs fine. But a bit of a rattle with revs, sounds like top end, maybe cams?
Popped rocket cover and checked and set valve clearances, all good.
Any clue on the noise?
Plan on doing a compression test later this week.
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Full fairing, no airbox (Pods). Yup saw Motorcycle NZ rules state it cant be open to atmosphere.
Bugger better make sure I use oversize tubing as would not want to obstruct the vent and affect the float bowl fill rate. Will run them, into the same catch can for overflow pipes.
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For those that race do you do anything in terms of hosing for the float bowl vents? The carbs come with float drain hoses but the float vents are not supplied with hoses.
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Ive replaced these spherical cups before, was pretty straight forward so if your solution doesn't work out get new ones.
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Just a thought but I had bot my tacho and speedo jump around when riding and found it was the mountng rubbers gone and the dial rubber mounting surrond.
Changed those and all fixed
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12 hours ago, stellafella said:
My mistake with the part number mate, this is the part that I used to stop my headlight moving around, bought 2 but only replaced the one.
What I found was one section of the socket had broken causing it to move about
Perfect - Thanks for that I didnt realize it was replacable.
I see it is part 6 in the digram sorry mate
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My local club doesn’t know what to do with my ‘85 Slabbie....in with the 600s or in with the 1000s. Mostly they don’t know what to do with a 34 year old bike and a 68 year old rider.
Never-mind the rider (I am sure u rock)
Deal with the bike
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1 hour ago, stellafella said:
part 35155-04A00 only about a fiver
The part you listed is the thumb screw nut
Not the pivot point
Engine noise
in Oil Cooled
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Hi,
Yup its been awhile. Still havent got it back together and gotten the answer. Life got in the way. Will be back to trying to solve the issue soon and will post an update as to my mistake :-)