ral

Will be there on Saturday, will call in to say hello.

My guess is the carbs are still not clean enough, I had similar issues to your description and it took three carb strips to get the internals squeaky clean, have you had the emulsion tubes out and cleaned all the holes out for example. Once spotless get it on a dyno to set up optimum delivery and you won’t regret it, he’ll of a difference when done right.

Workshop manual states pressure of above 1.42 and below 7.11 psi, not a lot is it. Measurement taken at 3000rpm

Changed the switch over and the flickering stopped. Thanks again for you imput folks.

Thanks for the reply’s folks, I’m aware that the switch requires an earth signal to illuminate, funny thing is the switch wasn’t initially making the earth thus no oil light, I put this down to it being covered in what looked like a varnish coating from old dried out engine oil, there was no continuity when checked with a meter, stripping the switch components and cleaning did the trick, maybe it’s too clean Ive a couple of these anyway so will try changing to see if that makes any difference, it’s only flickering when stationary and ticking over, stops as soon a the throttle is blipped. Next step is to confirm the wire connection push fit on top of the switch as it’s 40 years oldrest of wiring is all new.

As heading, light flickering on below 1500 rpm on GSX1100ET but only when warm, any ideas folks, just back from riding it and if the pump was faulty I would think it would have seized by now. Are there alternatives to the std factory switch???? As I’m not convinced that wire connection is great as it’s quite a loose fit.

On a recent complete rewire not a single workshop manual showed or matched the original loomes wire colours exactly, and I’ve got three different manuals for the bike in question including factory manuals with revisions. So don’t expect the diagrams to always be 100% correct. The important information is that the connections joining up each component are correct, a good black and white diagram is in my opinion essentially better than colour, let’s face it you could use all the same colour wire in a loom to achieve the desired result. Looms will also contain some unconnected wires as across the model range different accessories can be fitted, as in your diagram, there is no parking light as Captain Chaos has pointed out.

79 is the vac hose ( small bore pipe ) 81 the fuel hose ( large bore pipe) it’s a struggle to get them on the tap the wrong way round as the smaller bore vac pipe would be difficult to fit onto the large bore fuel outlet. Pri= prime, and opens the fuel tap to flood the float bowls that’s why you’ve got fuel flowing, turn it off prime and stick a hose onto the small bore vac side of the tap, suck on the vac pipe and fuel should flow from the fuel tap large bore outlet if alls well. leaving it on prime will test your float valve shut off action, if any float valves are not sealing you can get fuel filling a cylinder, first you will know is if you go to start it and it locks up. Can also bleed fuel past the rings into the crankcases.

9So here’s the problem, as Toni says the gap is fixed, however this clearly depends on the inside diameter of the Rotor and the Outside diameter of the stator, the new Stator/Generator is 103mm and as listed by Electrex world for 1980 gsx1100, the inside diameter of the rotor is 104.4mm, the Stator will fit inside the Rotor but I suspect there will be contact one I fire up the motor as there will no doubt be some runout between the two, the air gap seems to be too small in my humble opinion. The old stator however is also 103mm but looks to have been running or making contact with the magnets on inside of the rotor.

So here’s the problem, as Toni says the gap is fixed, however this clearly depends on the inside diameter of the Rotor and the Outside diameter of the stator, the new Stator/Generator is 103mm and as listed by Electrex world for 1980 gsx1100, the inside diameter of the rotor is 104.4mm, the Stator will fit inside the Rotor but I suspect there will be contact one I fire up the motor as there will no doubt be some runout between the two, the air gap seems to be too small in my humble opinion. The old stator however is also 103mm but looks to have been running or making contact with the magnets on inside of the rotor. New on the right.

Can’t find any spec for this in the workshop manual, As far as I’m aware the stator size can be 101mm or 103mm This I would have thought would mean the rotor would also have two internal dimensions. But what would or should be the air gap?? Anybody know this????

Thanks folks, have looked on eblag and there are sets at £10 a set look ok but I’ve doubts that at a tenner there suitable enough, seem to have had sold lots, anybody have any experience of them. like you say might be best to get a newer Suzuki set.

Not any more, spoke to him last week and again fully booked until November at earliest. works from home now and collects and delivers bikes that he’s got booked in. looks like I will be doing it myself if it’s to be done sooner rather than later

Rupes full booked until November, was hoping to get it done asap.

Thinking about having complete rewire on GSX1100 1980. Bike runs great and been set up on Dyno , but wiring is letting it down, Any recommended competent people on here with the skills to take it on??? Midlands based. Thanks.

LH Switch HI, LO Beam, Indicators, horn. RH Switch, Lights on off, kill switch, starter button. Throttle twist grip.

I have spare LH & RH switches but at 43 years old there past there best and I want switches that can be relied on 100% the problematic LH switch square button that is HI LO beam and indicators is all over the place.

Thing is lithium batteries are very susceptible to overcharging, 14.4v is considered to be the top of the range on a 12v battery, some regulator rectifier’s charge over 14.4v, it’s this overcharge that gives concerns, also some chargers/ battery tenders for example will switch to DESULPHATE mode on a low voltage battery, this will generally charge at a rate above the 14.4 top end for a period of time, this can cook lithium batteries. I for one will not be using lithium on older bikes systems that are not designed for lithium batteries. If your going to use lithium I would recommend that the correct charger is used, and check your charging system is not delivering over 14.4v

Looking at replacing poorly functioning 1980 GSX1100 handlebar switches with new and hoping for recommendations. Anybody used cheapo alloy ones of eblag for example,at £10 a pair. ( wouldn’t expect so ) Any thoughts folks, ta.

Should stop the Magpies trying to steal it

I’ve read various options on how to get rid of the bloody annoying battery warning light on the GSX1100s check panel,wiring diagrams in the workshop manuals give confusing lists and none exactly matched the loom colours on my bike, so how to guarantee the desired result. Well the small bulbs enclosed within the check panel circuit board are removable, just pull off the right one off and bingo, no more bloody annoying battery level warning light at zero cost.

CMSln.com website lists colour charts, might be worth a look.

As TonyGee says, sounds like blockage, main fuel line feeds the T connector in between the two carbs in the middle, number 2&3 these would fill first, once full the fuel should then flow through the straight connectors between 1&2 and 3&4, start with removing main fuel feed line to see if it’s full of crap.Fuel normally finds its way through the smallest of gaps so might be filling float bowls when stood hence initial start up, the weak flow is starving the carbs when running by the sounds of it

I would be happy with the colour of them plugs, strange jetting set up I’ve not come across before, we live and learn, I would also confirm actual hole sizes as who knows if they’ve been drilled. like you say though if it runs great why mess with it. Deffo not std carbs though but would be interested to establish what they are off.