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Everything posted by Svsam

  1. Does it add value if you snap a snap on extractor piece in there Give up on this one for now.
  2. Is it common for these little bastards to snap when torquing them up, or am I just unlucky? this is the second time I’ve had it happen, luckily first time it wound out with the broken head. Tonight, no such luck. I know they are only 10nm setting, though I read somewhere that wet and dry torques are completely different, anyone heard this before?
  3. real good weekend. Cheers guys! Look forward to the next one.
  4. I got thumbs up off the gaffer this morning
  5. I’d be game if I can get the weekend off work could bring my turbo slingy or blandit 11
  6. This is my ‘scruffy slingy’ unsure of power, late 100s running a standard b12 with sp turbo kit. r1guys old lock up clutch (above) got a set of busa pistons and another b12 motor to aim for 250bhp. Could do with extended swingarm in time.
  7. Decided to give up on that engine and buy another 1157 and build my own 1216, I got the busa pistons for it now. I read about prepping the pistons to prevent getting hot spots on them, can any one advise, or got a pic of how much I should be taking off? Obviously don’t want to cock them up otherwise I’ve paid for five fifths of feck all. Also, anyone get any experience with maxpeeding rods? Worth it?
  8. I picked up this ‘bit Smokey when it’s running’ mk1 1200 motor yesterday. Was cheap enough, happy to find busa pistons in it when I opened it up. there is some considerable heat damage where the cam lobes have got so hot they have worn down the rocker arms. I have a complete head here left over from a dot head conversion on a different bike. Upon closer inspection of the bores earlier I noticed these marks (only) on no:3, like cavitation almost. Its not deep, but can feel it when I run my nail over it. What could have caused this? The pistons don’t look any more work than a second hand set. Can I get it re-bored I fraction to keep the busa pistons? The plan is to build a strong engine for my turbo that’s currently on standard b12 motor.
  9. It’s definitely a j/k 748 frame. I sold it you I think. It’s a gr77c import if I remember right.
  10. Morning all, I’ve made a start giving the latest purchase a once over. Bandit 6 with 1052 engine. it seems to have gsxr 750 bst36ss fitted (no TPS) but I noticed the carb tops are different heights, 1&4 look like they are from the bandit 36mm carbs and 2&3 look like gsxr ones.. looks a bit suspicious to me anyone come across this before? surely it’d make balancing near impossible if they are different causing different pressures up top? I have had it running previously and it wasn’t awful.. maybe they are inzuma or gsxf carbs that I haven’t come across before? long term plan would be rs36 when I can afford a set later in the year.
  11. Sounds like float needle stuck open on number 2. that’s what I find 9 times out of 10 when there’s fuel coming out the filters. This will also over fuel more than likely causing the smoking petrol smell.
  12. Oh and here’s a piccy so you don’t think it never happened
  13. Evening all, I’m having a bit of headache with my recently turbo’d 7/12 project. Got the tank back on her this morning, excited and fired her up, went round the block no problem. Happy days. Then I tried to start it again and nothing, checked the spark plugs which are new and no spark... but it did spark if I held the plug about 2mm off the block, if it touched it’d not spark, take the contact away slightly and it’d arc to the block and spark luckily I’ve got a bit of a collection here so I’ve been trying a few bits. ive swapped the coils first, no change. swapped the plugs, no change. swapped the pulse generator, no change. so thought I wander if there is a positive current running through the frame stopping the spark ( I know I should have been a sparky!) so it seems there is 0.01 volts through the frame, only when the ignition is on. is this the problem? Am I looking for a wire? I ive tried the searches but what the hell do you search with this?? Cheers y’all
  14. Tightens the chain don’t it??
  15. @B12HUDS I’m taking a wild guess here that you have bought that dot head that was on Eblag last week, the one with no cams or rockers??
  16. I got a couple getting in the way in the shed Phil. Send or put up a pic of yours and I'll see if I got one I can send you
  17. Svsam

    Carb question

    I’m using gsxr750 36mm carbs on my b12 dot engine, all good over 4-5k, going to try some bigger pilot jets when I can. Also have a set of gsxf carbs on route for another b12 motor. don’t all the bandit ones have a TPS on the side? And the throttle cable mount is higher?
  18. They are ramair filters I bought off someone on here. They do the trick just fine The headers are off a 750 and didn’t fit very well, got a b12 set on now that don’t look as good.
  19. Second that. yes, 36cvs are the limit.
  20. Checked and now using negative to a good contact on the block. cheers though. starting to question whether the jump leads are restricting cause they get warm.
  21. Did have a search before and have tried all advise so far, so dont shoot just yet... As title says, the starter is real sluggish turning over, ive tried bypassing all wiring putting the live straight on top of starter. Also swapper the starter off my other B12 engine. Always cranks at about 1/3 the speed it usually does. I've tried a 1200 bike battery, and sprinter battery and the battery off my l200 andit still cranks the same speed. The engine is a B12 bottom end with dot head fitted, the whole point of the head swap is raising compression, is the compression to high to turn over now? If i remember right @dupersunchas a motor with dot head.. any starter troubles? Any advice or tips much appreciated
  22. Svsam

    Found in sump

    Are you positive.... sorry, couldn’t resist!
  23. I heard k5 headers worked some how. The stock ones I bought are no where near. Will have a look at micron ones.
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