Heatz

chain snapped on my RF69 and took out the motor are eather the 750W or 1100W the same cases or do i need to find RF900 ones?

cibbies and RGV tail work really well together ive another WC 1100 im gona probably run eather cibbies or see what else works (ive got another one the same as above)

you wouldnt if you had sat on it

ive put a bandit 12 swingarm in an RF600 and it bolted straight up so id say yes it will fit knowing suzuki an RF900 probably has a bandit 12 swingarm from the factory

apart from getting the plates made and frame modded a little to get the motor in as i didnt have the equipment at the time yes i built it back in 2002 the tailunit is a german one chopped up and made to sit at a decent angle and is a recent addition the headlight will be staying as i like to see where im going at night and its got good lights(and i like it) and im not a fan of the streetfighter masks ect and ive got a GSX1400 with the big single light already

after a good few years stuck at the back of the shed i got my 7/11 back out and on the road

more on this topic here

im guessing by all the answers that everyones thinking WTF is he on about this is the outlet and tap from an RF600 single outlets for on/res and a non vaccum fuel tap and it bolts straight onto a WN tank ( i think slingshot as well) was wondering if anyones knows if the RF900 one is bigger bore size or the same part

messing about to see if i can get a remote fuel tap on my WN 7/11 and ive got an RF 600 tap and outlet im gona try but just wonderd if someone with an RF900 could take some pics and mesurements of the tank outlet feed pipe diameters and is it just the two outlets main/reserve ect like on the RF600 (just to know if the 900 one will flow more fuel then the 600)

one other thing i forgot is tank needs to be lifted slightly at the back and pushed forwards about 10mm or the fuel tap lands on top of the rear oil feed and wont sit down into the frame i cut the front rubber mount to get tank forwards and shaved the botom of the tap almost to the bolt hole but if doing it again id shave the mount instead of the rubber or get a smaller tap

what bike are they off? i will soon have access to a set from a 750J or bandit 6

problem i have is the float bowl gaskets are not holding down the float assembly/float needle seat properly so fuel flow dos'nt stop and dumps fuel into the oil

dont have the funds for them atm otherwise id snap yer arm off

id prefer to keep the airbox but its not the end of the world to go pods just want my bike running again

bollix

has anyone tryed these kits before? are they worth getting? https://www.Eblag.ie/itm/93-94-SUZUKI-GSXR1100W-CARB-REPAIR-KITS-CARBURETOR-4-REPAIR-KITS-20-GSXR1100CCR/254184137965?hash=item3b2e8e24ed:g:NyEAAOSw5uRb1rRm

the carbs on my 750 Slabby are beyond fucked (bits crumbling inside ) so is there a modern set that will fit? and still let me keep the airbox? ( i did search but couldnt find an answer)

if you got the motor already go for it the frame will need modded but not drastically you just need to cut off the upper rear mount and make a new one some of the other mounting plates need to be remade but one or two(cant remember offhand) of the originals can be used two of the header bolts will be behind the frame rails use the bandit loom and carbs and pod filters (no airbox will fit) you will need an 8mm offset front sprocket and you will need to reshape the back edge of the sprocket cover to fit past the bulge where the swingarm pivot is and make a few brackets for the oil cooler

oil cooled in water cooled dont go unless you can do a bit of fab work (if you can then its not overly hard but you will need to remake all the engine mounts ect and there a few other small issues to solve)

ok took a while to get back to this after trying every slot on the needles and different mixture screw setting i nearly gave up as was getting nowhere opened up the carbs again to move the clip on the needle and just noticed how straight and blunt the needles were compared to others i worked on before so had a look in my bits box and dug out a set of dynojet tapered needles form a WC1100 that where the same length as the bandit ones put them in with clip one from bottom mix screws 2.5 turns out with 130 mains and woohooo had a bike that finally pulled hard and clean was running well enough that i dont think we even need to dyno it(still gona do it though) so thanks guys for the help ye kept me on the right track

pilot jets are clean and 27.5 did try 32.5s but ran worse engine ran fine b4 it was taken out of the bandit frame

doing a 7/12 conversion using all the B12 stuff to run the motor but need a base line to start with for the carbs to make it rideable to get it to a dyno so far have gone up as far as 150 mains but it eather bogs at anything over tickover unless you give it throttle very slowly then it might make 4k rpm but is not rideable tryed 130 mains and same thing but if i cover half of the back of the carbs with my hands it revs clean (not under load though) currently on 122s K&N twin pods with mix screws 1.5 turns out and 70% of pod area taped off it runs/sounds good but wont pull clean under load its ridable but not a pleasant experience without the tape it crackles n dies back at anything over tickover ive serched here and via google but getting so many conflicting answers i though id ask the boys in the know HELP!!!! never had this much hassle with GSXR carbs

got the engine in my 7/11

airbox or pod filters? on standard jetting and airbox off it would do something like that

i like em and have had both with tricked up shocks n stuff great bikes but temperamental and always seem to need something done with them i got rid when i realized all of my garage time was going into one or other of the TLs and my other projects where just gathering dust