Gixer1460

The basket spins on a needle roller bearing so there will be a 'degree of looseness' so some movement is possible / probable. Juddery / draggy clutch is usually hammered / notchy hub which can be filed smooth but rarely works for long time. Steels can go in either way - its not important although I used to put all in same direction, one way or the other! Others may have other opinions.

Don't forget it won't be proper unless you burn your left knee on the dump pipe whilst sucking your jeans and knee into the intake on the right - avoiding either of those and backto skool!

'Flexible turbo mount' ? Is that a way of saying you are hanging it rather than letting the exh. pipework and inlet manifold do the supporting? With my original Kawazuki the 3 tube frame spine offered plenty of attachment points so I welded a simple bracket down to pick up one of the turbine housing bolts - carried all the weight and allowed everything else to move around as it wanted. Likewise with the 1460 turbo hung out the front, it uses a couple of turnbuckle type rods and rod end joints to carry all of its weight whilst the exh. manifold provides the positioning restraint. I'm sure yours will be elegant engineering not a hacked bracket LOL!

Is it not the valve size?

That would seem to imply more of a problem due to float valve function ie. dropping level increases mechanical leverage on the valve? But, if the dropped level is fine at boosted levels, what happens when no boost present ie. at cruise rpm's - would that give lean condition?

Principles are exactly same whether GSXR, Blandit or GSX !

Exactly - its why almost std jet sizes can be used - maybe with a little increase - as the increased airflow due to the wind machine, increases the suction (reduces the air pressure at the venturi) over the jets in proportion to the air volume increase. Any jet size increase will be down to inefficiencies or mis-match in pressures. Its why injection works so well, you know the boost and it is proportional to the NA air requirement so you factor in that adjustment to the fuel map and job done.

Makes things 'easier' although finding the bearings is getting harder (the correct type). Its just pressing / pulling / careful balancing & indexing. There is a member on here that does his own but not commercially and he's in Europe so freight would be out of the question!

There should be no difference - fuel pressure is increased via pitot tube / FPR and float bowl air pressure over the bowl fuel is increased via the pitot - everything should be in equilibrium? I know theory is just that - but a 2mm change is big!

As you are in the US of A - is this the early 750 with roller bearing crank or the later 750 variant with the shell bearing'd crank (what we in Europe know as GSX types) as it'll affect crank rebuildability options.

All's well that ends well LOL! I wonder how many people playing with stuff like this, have been driven to drink just due to mis-assembly - I know I have! If it was idiot proof - nothing would get finished

No it won't be! Any work on these old cranks will effectively be a 'race prep' but not to the N'th degree but as said if the revs can be controlled, a std crank could survive!

Blimey - those ports have REALLY small drillings! I know pressure doesnt really care but I've always used a 'reasonable' bore pipe to WG actuator.

I can't see clearly in you pic but has the 'controller' got just two ports or three ie In & Out (+ an exhaust) ? If its two port, i'm guessing its a restrictive operation type so restricts boost getting to the valve which would mean gate never opens or only at super boost. If its a three port, and if you wind the valve totally closed, you should only get spring pressure boost, fully open and its max boost. Use with a blow through - you only exhaust 'air' - no flammable mixture.

Is the boost control mechanical ie. manual valve or electronic via a solenoid? Bear in mind any boosted air will be a combustible mixture so care where it is vented to!

It can work the other way where the controller solenoid is bleeding off boost pressure from WG line so wastegate doesn't open, so giving increasing boost. Clive's method needs a pressurised air source in excess of total boost and spring pressure - normally an air shifter cylinder or small co2 / nitrous cylinder will suffice. Boost control is bloody tricky and an absolute art in SSB racing!

Pic says a lot (maybe) - Bike thrown down the road and damaged / wiped out the clutch cover / mechanism and matey chucked whatever cover came to hand to tart it up for sale, yeah problem with clutch, I think its sticky plates, not had time to fix it, blah, blah, blah! Fibres look worn, but not worn out - so re-assemble with correct bits and i'm sure it'll work fine! (Probably why its got 1100 footrests / controls on !)

Something odd going on as there is a 4 spring pressure plate and a 6 spring one! Obviously can't mix and match those without correct hub! The long / short rack thing seems clear to me as the operating shaft is in a different place in space with different covers so needs a different length rack for the teeth to mesh. Its likely that with the wrong parts the teth aren't meshed so won't work the clutch. If there is a spare plate, its a strong possibility that the assembly has been thrown together and needs a coat of looking at whilst checking a parts fiche to get correct number of steels & fibres!

Yes!

For info, and for what its worth, the big engine of mine uses -6 ptfe lined hose, x8 injectors, in top rail, looped at end into lower rail with FPR at other end and return to tank. Lower spec Bosch pump ie. NOT 044 ( I don't like the current draw with them ) Plenty enough fuel for 350+hp although my steel rails may have slightly bigger bore.

I thought that - as do the 1100's! Basically, if its not in the middle of the glass - its too low!

Nice - how about making the flat section under the rail a little thicker and have a clamp over (like a handlebar clamp), one between cyl 1 & 2 and one between 3 & 4 ? Couple of c/sunk M6 cap heads per clamp - Easy to remove rail and well clamped / held if secured to plenum?

Whilst these are your bikes - your trainset type deals, it makes me smile when asking for a 'nice torquey road bike engine', then proceed to outline a request for a 40% HP gain! Generally performance items are geared towards HP not torque (although they are linked). Airflow, intake efficiency and cylinder filling is where you improve torque, so a modest carb increase, good porting but retaining std. valves or modest larger intake and maybe a cam with better lift but not lengthened duration. An exhaust of 4-2-1 configuration with long primaries is usually better for torque. Don't go chasing RPM - its not important and can lead to more problems! The 1085 is a good base for a lugger - cranks ok at sub 100hp level - its when they get over revved, problems occur. If the money is available then indexing and welding the crank is no bad thing but brings nothing really if rpm's controlled. Suzuki built a good engine, you just need to polish the edges a bit IMO!

2Ah - I didn't know you could get something so small! I'd be wary - twin 55w lamps + tail & brake lights is about 140w, so @ nominal 13.2v = 10.6A, flat battery in less than approx 10mins. Add in ign., fuel pump and other assorted electricity - hmmm!

Carb'd turbo bikes were around at least 20 years before injection started to be widely adopted - my 1st was an S&S carb'd suck through in late 80's / early 90's. No more electrons than a normal NA bike!