Gixer1460

" so the split pieces aren't required." I did say! As regards the brackets, I'd say, that exhaust isn't original to that bike, hence different brackets and why 'original brackets' don't fit!

I believe with that exhaust, the split collars are built into the header pipes ie. the thicker collars so the split pieces aren't required. Normally the pipe is straight and the split pieces are positioned around the pipe, secured with a cable tie, inserted into the head and all restrained with the clamp. With yours just insert into port and restrain with the clamp - sooooo much easier.

If Bakker did build the frame for PVM - a German company - it stands to reason a) all the literature / brochures would be in German and b) that the frames would 'generally' comply with TuV rules (if it was to be used on the road) As Bakker have confirmed that this frame was intended for racing, it may have been modified such that it wouldn't be TuV compliant - in Germany. But as the owner is in Denmark the TuV issue should be immaterial but I guess compliance with Danish build and use rules will be required if the bike is to be registered for the road. We have the MSVA test in the UK for home built vehicles to establish valid construction and identity - something similar is likely to exist in Denmark!

Without going back to page 1, I can't see any mention of what pump you have? Pressure should only drop when pump is off - is it cutting out? From video your base fuel pressure looks like 0.2-0.25 bar? which is bit under 3.0 - 3.7 psi and would generally considered high as bike carb float valves can't hold more than 1.5psi ish static pressure. I don't know how this would affect this problem. I don't know what's wrong . . . . . . . . . but it ain't right!

Why do OEM's have to make a simple operation - lights on, dip or main, so complicated - as a 'rider aid' or 'for rider benefit'. KISS is the best policy IMO!

Not getting into this minefield thank you but re the HD studs question - check out the tiny orifice in the brass jet that feeds oil up the studs which jells with the other forum post regarding pressure ! Seriously the volume going up the studs is NOT restricted by the studs, its just a cavity that oil flows through - actually tighter cavity = faster initial oil delivery! If the pressures quoted are correct (they seem bit low to me) but if you watch, oil doesn't piss out at obvious high pressure from the rockers just good volume which would indicate ok pressure with good volume. This discussion will go on forever - do it if you want or don't do it because you will never get a definitive answer!

But unfortunately 'modern' is newer and works, 'retro' is old and doesn't (mostly). Bandit stuff is good and functional.

Certainly won't help if there is charging issues! Reading the 1st post again - didn't notice the misfire / flat battery bit . . . . . . you've got a dead R/R = not charging at all! We this side of the water can choose to run lights on or off so the effect of no switch is unknown to us!

I's suspect the three red shrink wrapped wire joints . . . . . they look like twisted wires and then shrink tube insulated - could be soldered but suspect not! Could cause volt drop. Otherwise I think the bike 'may' have the lights powered from the alternator direct so may not show true volts if engine not running. If it does then best to get newer R/R and have all 3 phases into it and output to battery, whilst re-wiring light switch to source power from fusebox / battery whatever the state of running.

GS of that age likely to have the weird charging system where 2 phases from alt. go to R/R and third goes to light switch & lights. I'd start at the switch then check the stator. Best solution fit 3 phase R/R with output to battery and rewire feed to lights from fusebox.

You do know that what you used to cut the threads wasn't a threading tool? Its close but not correct. At first I thought the crank had roller bearings and 'welded bearings' would deffo make it scrap but a cast crank . . . . . . surely could be ground undersized? Suzuki like using standardised main and BE journal sizes so maybe other model bearings will suit if u/size GS500 ones not available?

That's the thing that puts me off - fuel inlets on RS carbs are bloody tight even with 'regular' pipe then plus a clip - hmmm!

Sort of typical for a high mileage engine IMO. Pan dirty but no big chunks or silicone. Clutch hub worn out, spring spacers always suffer but can be reused. Never understood 'square' gasket and piston looks like it's been touching! That touching has possibly caused the marks in the small end? from side loading. Gears will probably go for years in regular use, competition use - you roll the dice!

Or you just got unlucky and either touched valves on overlap or simply lost the valve head? Too easy to blame the shims especially as you didn't buzz the motor - I assume you didn't as turbo's are rarely high rpm tools? By the colour of the valves in #1 & #2 - it looks to be using oil? Strange - 30mm is a 'std' oversize inlet valve and 31mm is a rarity for GSXR - the usual hop-up valve size set was 30/26mm. Edit - 31mm valve is from a std. watercooled 1100 . . . . explains it, AND they use a smaller dia. stem, so I assume the Exhaust's do as well? More snap prone with turbo temps?

That level of nurdiness made my brain hurt

You may think / it would be logical right? and rally cars often use a similar effect on the start line to generate boost - they call it anti-lag BUT it has a huge downside. Bearing in mind where they work, turbo turbines are quite fragile and can be damaged with excess heat. The anti-lag systems add excess fuel during exhaust cycle which ignites / burns in the pipe / turbine housing to provide LOTS of exhaust pressure / heat to spin up the turbine and hence boost, super retarded ignition also means fuel in cylinder will pass through and only gets ignited late, so burning outside the cylinder. All good for spool - right? Well no! Its an uncontrolled burn with temps far in excess of 1000 - 1200+ deg C which will nibble away at turbine blades leading to failure. This is ok for a factory team that can treat turbo's as a consumable item but not ideal for the average garage, engine fiddler! Apparently 99.5% of whatever can be thought of as clever / new / revolutionary has already been done / tried / discarded before we think of it. Only the Einstein types come up with absolutely 'new' stuff Edit - Oh, in case you are wondering, the 4-1 manifold above had 32mm primaries, equal length, 4-1 collector into a 38mm up pipe to the turbo, all in stainless 304. Any lag it suffered was more down to using a S&S tractor carb

Who is that comment aimed at? If its me (because the picture was from me) - where have I EVER insisted on Draw through? I've built both, one with a carb, one with EFI and planning a possible hybrid draw through but with single TB and injection. So I really don't care if the work. And BTW the picture was a mock up, EFE bottom, GSXR top, 1360cc and 14:1 CR - would have used methanol - could have been fun!

In the grand scheme of things, I think it makes 9/10ths of FA Difference in response as shorter exhaust / longer inlet tract and vice versa. Its unlikely anyone has actually done back to back quantitive testing so any results are likely very subjective ie. "its so much more responsive" when they last tried it with the old system & was a year ago! Unless you are in a competitive arena and have the budget to test, test, test and then more testing - just build something that fits, works and then sleep well at night! Arttu's points are valid, so is wrapping / insulating long exhaust pipes - turbo's are heat engines & long pipes lose heat so keep it in!

Naughty naughty - who hasn't read the rules ! ! !

Pedant LOL - I did say 'majority' and a nitro hemi isn't too common hereabouts

Generally no seals required as everything is rubber and re-useble. Only the cover bolt gaskets get a bit compressed so might weep a bit. Careful with the spark plug well gaskets as if displaced you will get an oil leak below the exhaust pipes where the well drain holes exit!

Wow you do like to be exact ! I suspect the majority of people on here that have ever put a performance engine together, have never measured or worried about seat pressures ! As long as a spring needs compressing to fit the collets and doesn't come near coil bind @ max lift - they are judged good! The springs you have will be designed for certain max rpm requiring a working spring pressure of 'x' - a turbo should not come anywhere near that rpm, you very rarely rev one out, and float will likely only be encountered if you buzz the limiter!

Re : leak down testing - whilst the valves could be adjusted spot on, you could still get valve leak down due to pitted / burnt seats or valves! No one has mentioned need for decent micrometer when doing shims. Yes, new ones have sizes etched on them but used numbers unlikely still to be seen. Measuring gaps for each valve then each shim gives a total. Subtract the ideal clearance figure and you get correct shim required. Just seems quicker / more consistent than swapping random shims around? Oh, and try and find someone with a shim box for replacements - they are bloody expensive for what they are! I had to re-shim a bare head once, cost more than the head was worth!

Mixing metric and banana measurements doesn't help but .440 = 11.76mm and there is no way that is cam lift as rocker ratio is 1.5:1 from memory. 5.87mm looks like cam lift. Really big cams are not ideal with boost due to losses on overlap.

At that age it'll have shim adjusted valves - not really a beginner mechanic job IMO and they are probably why compressions are a bit low. Bad running carbs at idle / low speed will no doubt be idle jets - need solvent and / or ultrasonic clean to be sure.