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icprey

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Everything posted by icprey

  1. While you know I've been battling the carb demons myself, and freaked when the same cylinder went again and flooded after double checking everything and add a loose clutch starter bolt reeking havoc, pulling the plug to clear the cylinder shows I've gone and lost spark again on Cyl 1 and maybe more, time I get to checking it. If you think about the way you express your results now, it works on one bike but not on this one, well maybe take the carbs out of the equation. Look elsewhere. But I feel for you, it's your call. I've been there before and walked away dejected. I also met the new owner some time later who chuckled as he told me it was a ground to the firewall I had missed (car) and a 5 cent connector fixed it!
  2. Lachie04 great link! Don't know if that is well shared and known, but I had never came by them. Very curious about what will happen next here. No popcorn emoji but let's see how this drama unfolds
  3. Here is an old article from Cycle Canada on a '88 Short Stroke exhaust set-up using stock airbox and filter. You have a set-up that was proven at the time and track tested. This is a Canadian model so you might want to check the differences if any from Aus. I have that manual in the garage if ever you need me to check. You know I too am going through some carb moments right now, but I feel at times I am struggling to get the carbs back perfect, meaning I have not completely disassembled every single piece and replaced, but rather cleaned the jets and passages hoping the rest is working ok. Anyways for a free breathing exhaust all they needed was a 115 main up from 112.5 and lowered the needle one notch (did 36mm have adj needles like you show previously) to lean it out some and stretched the diaphram springs 6mm. These were tuning recommendations from Yosh for free flow exhaust with stock carbs and filter. Pretty small changes from stock to see the issues you felt when back at stock, but as you said it seems the 748 reacts more sensitive. Only ever had one 748 in my youth (a few 749's) and stepping down 2-3 gears always solved everything. I don't remember caring about driveability...hehe. Oh how times have changed. Have a few 748's lying around here for the last 20+yrs as well, always wondering what do to with (had a 815 short-long combo in mind). Hoping the above can lock you into a setting and stick to fixing the issue happening with a known setting. Also just be sure you are not using 1200 36mm carbs as they are internally different and won't react to GSXR settings. What is your carb stamp on the body side?
  4. Good to know. Before I wonder why it won't fit the swingarm. The conversation has made me want to find a staight spoke front now!
  5. Good to know, thx. We never got those here in Canada.
  6. I've got two 7/12's kicking my butt right now with a variety of carb choices. I've been coming in dejected and eyeing Brand Spanking New Mikuni's, but remain determined to use what I have and figure this out. If Sept rolls around and I am still sucking my thumb, I might crack!!! Keep us informed. Your plight may help mine or someone else's.
  7. I believe in 1995 when Suzuki tried to lighten the bikes up some 750 and 1100 they went to a lighter weight straight spoke design. I've got a rear hanging around in the shed somewhere for the last 20yrs and it is a 5.5 not a 6.0 like the SRAD. True that the first water cooled of 92-94 had the heavier curved models.
  8. Hope your getting this figured out. Just know you are not alone. I believe there to be plenty of us trying to get 30yr old stuff running right! I am so sick of pulling the carbs, I'm on Carb vacation right now
  9. I don't think there is anything special about the frame. The riveted plate could speak to a certain past. Here in Canada a bike that has a rebuilt title would get a plate similar to that to signify it has been reviewed and considered legal again for use. This could be something of that nature, but I never saw that plate on a stock frame before and it really looks like it was added after by someone wanting it to stay there. Maybe someone recognizes it from their region.
  10. Dyna 2000 is $320USD. Not sure what you paid for that, but I'd sell it to someone building a W/C special and go the Dyna route. If not and you really want a PowerPak I know of a used one that is for sale. I believe the Dyna to be more versatile and what most people step to. Not sure what you are building but most PowerPak's ended up selling because back in the day replacement boxes were crazy expensive in comparison.
  11. icprey

    Carb question

    My knowledge is more GSXR but here is a 36mm (oval) vs 38mm (round) comparison on the intake side.
  12. icprey

    Carb question

    I'm eyeballing this photo probably an ocean's away, but I think those are 36mm vs 38mm. Quick change bowls and the hose up the side scream 38mm. Both oval on the intake side?
  13. Ran out and snapped these for you. Sorry for the upside down. The joys of working from home!! 91 750.
  14. Hey Nok, Brian here, the guy with the XC200 from QC. It sure looks to me like a 91. The way those covers over the oil cooler are there and the way the mid section line is cut speaks to the 91 bodystyle. The water-cooled models seem to re-use the existing stock lines, but it does not garantee someone in the 90s (Northstar, AirTech, HotBodies, etc....is there no company stamp?) made a straighforward design no cooler cover, one piece lowers for the water cooled models??? Not sure it helps as this is the other way around, but I have a 750 water cooled birdcage holding a 91 stock fairing with the glass removed and a racing plate covering. So I'm wondering if your fairing is 750 and simply not meshing with your 1100 birdcage. Hoping a more definitive answer makes it way to you.
  15. NICE! Airbox portion underneath filled in? I'm waiting on the magnetic test too. Hoping for you it is an old endurance race tank. I can see with the carb side covers this build will turn out racy. Good luck.
  16. Hey guys, I had pulled the sprocket off both engines and put them back as is, so no shim or spacer that I know of was there other than the big one that goes into the cases on the countershaft. I know, "aggressive masterlink", what's that. I'll add a couple of example pics, but I have used several types in the past. Regular style with a locking clip, press fit ones that need the ends mushroomed and then there is this thing. It is a press fit outer plate that needed press fit type install power but the roller rods extend out about twice the typical distance and has e-clips on it as a just in case scenario. Nothing sleek about the outside of this thing. In the pics one protrudes very little while the next one (mine does not stick out quite that far, but more than a typical clip type) would have alot more outside length. And that added to the countershaft extra length is where things went tok tok against the cover.
  17. So I hate posts where the OP doesn't come back and tell you what finally happened or the fix. Not going to do that here. This could save someone some grief later on. But I'll have a little fun giving you the answer. So there was an 1127 in there before. The 1200 was set-up with the same sprocket cover and sprockets and chain and wheel as when the 1127 was in there and the only change being the Bandit 1200 engine. So where is the difference in all of this to cause the problem???? Did I give you enough info before for the most astute? Well I didn't catch it even though in hindsight I should have known this. . . . . As has likely been covered here before the changes to the Bandit externally are pretty limited. Seemingly they are the same exterior dimensions and certainly the 1100 L,M,N models are but not the K. Anybody see where I am going with this yet???? Yup the output or countershaft is further out on those models(L,M,N & Bandit). Mix that with a fairly aggressive master link and an Slabbie Sprocket Cover and you have an interference. The sprocket is spaced outwards more on the Bandit than the 1127K engine was to clear the 5.5in. wheel and therefore the Master Link was out further contacting the edge of the slave cyclinder. So turn the rear wheel several rotations the master contacts the slave from above turn it in the opposite direction several rotations and the master hits from beneath. I watched chain and sprocket through the holes clear everything in front of the chain, but i could not see this happening side inside. Worst part is that I recently found out the sprocket covers receive a new part number with the 1127L motor and likely they clearanced around this area just for that. Comment if you know. Anyways a little grinding and we are all good with that for now. All excited I tried to start her up and throw into gear and of course it seems a plug went and fouled so I'll have to confirm the clutch rod length another time. THX for making me get back on my knees and pull the cover just to be sure! Pictures speak volumes.
  18. Hey Guys, Decided to revive some old parts I've had laying around for a while. Bought a used 1200 from what I consider a fair source a while ago but I know nothing about the engine. I've never had a bad purchase from this guy before so didn't expect different this time. He claimed it to be a quality motor. So I put a 7/12 together this week with that engine and just before clicking it into gear I was on my knees the bike on a rear stand and I decided to check chain to sprocket cover clearance (13/45 sprockets were already on the bike before the engine swap and worked fine before). So weirdly after spinning the wheel around approx 3 full turns it came to a blockage stop. Mechanically it is jamming against something. And I have no reason to think it is behind the sprocket cover as it goes a full three wheel rotations around. And then you spin the tire in the opposite direction and it goes approx 3 rotations and again blocks up against something. If I click it into gear 1 or 2 (not running) it reacts immediately as it is blocked from moving, practically no play, normal like. Throw it back into neutral and it does the 3 rotations stops. Reverse 3 rotations stops. Weird. Never encountered this before. Aside from the engine being an unknown, since I removed a weaping 1127 and placed the 1200 in there I had to make an 80mm clutch pushrod as the 1127 one was way too long. If I went too short on that rod and the rod is "floating" for lack of a better word and without preload could that explain it? Should it not be without preload? Seeing as I am now petrified to start the motor in neutral or gear before figuring this out, I can't really say if the clutch rod is fully functional(I did start the motor after transplant in neutral without a sprocket or chain or wheel and the motor ran fine). I'll add the sprocket cover obviously comes from a 750 Slabbie (6speed indicator 2 shaft holes), but really it fits like a glove. Also I did look around at the rear wheel and chain to see if I could see it blocking anywhere, but being beside the sprocket and feeling where the block occurs it really feels like its in the output shaft. Did I buy a lemon and do all that work for nothing? Any ideas engine/tranny guru's? Thanks in advance if you can enlighten me on what this might be or where/how to look.
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