jonny1bump

As said above Ray boring is done Saunders hence why I went to them myself under his direction.

Saunders did my last one it was very expensive more then 63 but its perfect.

I agree too but they are expensive. Dom at tvr power awesome guy too, may take some persuading thou. Not south east thou.

That is proper nice.

Its not something I would do myself as the springness (Is that proper word) in the gasket has been compressed to create the seal, so very curious myself. I'm sure the Gaskets fatblokes done are stock. May be wrong here thou.

Yeah good point I meant cosmetic layered spring steel.

Ever done it with spring steel gasket.

Ahhh you done it on base gasket not head.

I also agree with @Gixer1460

If its melting insulation time to start serious maintenance and replace it.

First thing do is follow what I've said and check voltage at battery, if really high that could be reason. Bare in mind wiring that old you probably got weak cable breaking down or bad connections causing high resistance, which would probably be best guess,but every bike different. They all old and depends on how well they been maintained.

I had a warpspeed racing manifold that was stunning it was never going work on road bike so sold it and used money to build own, was utterly gutted, but shape was really complicated no way could I mod it well. As no class said can be modded but sometimes is it worth it and compromise or start again and get it where you want. What seat unit is that btw.

I machine the 1127 cases for bandit block as found liners fret on cases if you don't and you have to force them onto the dowels if you don't its only small amount. Just what I do.

I personally just wouldn't, unless at track or something and no choice. If you got old school copper and piano wire you reuse with adhesive like gascrinch or loctite etc, recently I regretted that decision too.

Thats why we have race tracks and quite few of us on here certainly ridden and driven full speed.

Tight wad.

Gone through quite few of them over the years, repairs never last longer then 5 minutes, the key is to make sure the oil pipes are not putting any strain on the cooler at all, the pipe vibration and strain wrecks them very quickly. Earls do a curved cooler too.

Thank you.

I've done few just splitting lowers never had issue, perhaps was lucky. I just made sure I went down square.

If doing clutch conversion make longer rod not add ball bearing as in Lee article, you don't want restrict the oil going down centre of shaft.

Wraith just use piece of silver steel and round the ends off.

Perfect weather too, nice one.

If someone has wound the castle trust clearance adjuster in hard it can act like a G clamp. Its different if you had bike long time and know it inside out.