mikeyd
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Posts posted by mikeyd
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One thing we do for dyno is put the longest bolts you can fit on lockup with as many washers as it will hold. You don't want any slippage. If the dyno guy gets a bike with a multistage, he pulls all the stall springs out that hold the arms back and adds weight also.
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What clutch are you using? Slide that thing!
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OK, went into Nlr website - so that is a V1 box with just 2 stages of boost.Read the directions and understand your question a little better now. Inputs 1 &2 need a constant 12+ or - signal to be active ( I think). So the only thing I can think of is they just wired it into the clutch switch and are using dual mode, and then bringing in stage 2 with a slower ramp rate. So when you release the clutch on launch, it starts both inputs (starting with stage one) and then 2nd stage just comes in later on the ramp but both stages are activated at the same time. Of course I could be totally wrong and have no idea why it would be wired into the neutral switch unless they are using something in the wiring harness like the kickstand safety switch as a cheap form of ignition kill and this is giving the AMS its signal?
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The AMS 500's iv'e seen look just like the AMS 1000 but with less features, so I'm not sure about that box. But the way they all know what gear it's in is there has to be a wire going to the air shifter/horn button - every time you shift, it counts the change. On newer bikes, they can wire it into the gps also.
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Always magnaflux the crank (68k miles!) Don't know about Bandit cranks, but 1127 cranks always showed something after mag, still used most of them. If you are in the states, also look up Marine crankshaft = great work. Always Carrillo H rods. Also, Big fan of dry film coatings on the bearings too, look up Calico coatings. I can tell you a few missed shifts - into the rev limiter, bike coming off the 2 stage at the line - sending the bike into the rev limiter, boost creeping to 32-33 lbs, never a problem. Shifting at 10,500. I pull my motor apart at the end of every season and don't really have to. Maybe luck, maybe a lot of oil changes, but always top $$ parts, and a billet crank., But You won't find anymore around the states.
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That bike is looking so bad ass! waiting for dyno sheet.
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On 2/10/2022 at 5:23 PM, no class said:
….. save yourself some trouble and go with the cometic mls gasket .
+1 on this! I use one now, no o-ringing the head anymore, re-used it 3 times already and has seen up to 32 lbs of boost - 0 problems. Cometic is still 2-3 months behind though.
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lol! ^^^^ open that wallet. All part #'s correct, use CHN1000K nuts. Heavy duty valve springs too, Titanium retainers, etc... Cylinder boring -81 mm pistons, 81mm bore. Pistons should be 20-40 thou in the hole. I set mine at 20, nitrous guys go 40-50. I probably should be more, but no problems so far. Oh and more $$$$. Maxspeeding rods? hmmmm. I wonder when they are going to come out with pistons and billet cranks so people can build race motors on a tight budget.
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Just wondering about the cylinder head, are they the original cam caps?
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You need to look at the underside of your valve cover where the oil feeds are going in. Most of them have a weep hole on each end and if the bolts supplied in the kit are not long enough, all the oil will come out of these holes and not reach the cams. You. can just tap and plug them with a short screw.
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I have used dental picks and scotchbrite pads (gray or red) with good results. Don't lay into the aluminum too much.
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Very interesting indeed! What's the third outlet for on the fuel rail?
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I'm using KZ1000 ones. Don't know what year if it matters.
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I never had to clearance 1127 cases to fit Carrillo rods with stock stroke crank. Also, if this bike is strictly drag race, buy a set of rods. A lot of people use Busa, water cooled, Bandit rods and made good numbers on the dyno, but they are street bikes that never see that horsepower number again and certainly not constantly so irrelevant what held up in their motors. If you are drag racing, mass produced stock rods out of any motor were never meant to see triple the power.
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Very clean build, I like the turbo placement and keeping it within the fairings.
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Hand clutch class is for drag racing, you can not use any type of lockup just super heavy springs so converting from 4 to 5 springs gives you that much more clamping force. Keeps it very competitive because you can never use all your power. There is a guy here with a nitrous 1100 that runs in the 7's - very impressive! only using a water-cooled diaphragm clutch with 3 springs (concave washers?) most of the nitrous hayabusas run 7's - 6 spring clutch. All by hand, no clutch release or delay boxes, no bars, no slicks, dot tire (always a Shinko) wheelbase can be whatever. True street bike class.
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Did this setup in my 1100 to compete in a hand clutch class. Uses 95-up inner basket and pressure plate, A real bitch to find as the parts are discontinued from Suzuki. 94 rf900 clutch is same as 1100w.
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No thread lock.
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12 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
For a bike carb - even a HSR - 5psi FP isn't low!
1.5 - 2.5psi max is usual pumped pressure!
True 1460. When we were using a s+s super b carb, 2-3 psi. When switching to hsr42, was able to realize 6-7 psi. Just messing around on the dyno with it, that's where the bike liked it best and worked very well at higher rpm's.
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When you sit on the bike (feet on pegs, so get a buddy to hold the bike up) you should have between a 1/2" to 1" of suspension sag on the rear. And for the love of God, Adjust that chain dude!
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I had to use the smallest one so it wouldn't overflow the carb. A must when using a fuel pump, even at something as low as 5 lbs of fuel pressure.
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no, never.
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Yes.,true for me. You can try ARP # 271-4701 studs for gen 1 Hayabusa. They are narrowed, similar to oem stuff.
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1994 Turbo RF build
in Forced Induction
Posted
Also on waste gates, always had better luck/control when it was on the turbo instead of header/collector but I have been using the 5 bolt flange with waste gate port built in. Some people even cut a hole in the hot side housing to make it work this way.