wombat258

Yes, but with the coil spring setup you need to buy a hub and springs.

Agree. Controller box should be obvious. The heater currents are quite high. If your sensor does not get bloody hot out in the air stream it does not have a controller. I use a TechEdge WBO2 controller. It has a separate 0-5V output connected to the Microsquirt lambda input.

Is it always reading lean lambda? Have you tested it with butane lighter? If you do not light the lighter and only direct the gas into the oxygen sensor it should read rich.

Pistons hitting the head usually flex and crack, and the bigend bearings get pounded. I would tear down and inspect fully, but that is just me I suppose. I hate cleaning up the damage when a rod says bye bye.

The standard coil springs do not give enough preload. You need a set of heavy duty springs (Barnett). That is what I run, with 1.5mm spacers to reduce installed height. Each arm has aluminium cap screw, aluminium nut, and a steel washer. 260 hp with no slip, and can still operate clutch at full rpm. Yes, drag racers use slip to get off the line, but they replace clutches frequently, and have to regularly dump the oil and filter because of the clutch dust.

With the Denso 40 amp alternator power supply to the battery is the M6 stud and nut to the right. The connector you have shown should be orange to ignition (senses the battery voltage) and red if used is only for an indicator light on the dash.

If it is a knock at the head and crank it is probably a failed big end bearing, and the piston is smacking the head. The oil should have a lot of metal in it in this case. Stop running it and tear it down. Although, I had a similar noise from my turbo and it turned out to be an unused a through-tapped hole on the exhaust housing that was leaking. Found it after I discovered it torched the paint on the chassis. Plugged the hole, and the noise was gone.

I only use Motorex or Silkolene semi's in my race engines. No slip, no wear.

Add more spring pressure (diaphram or coil?) with spacers . . . standard, the lockup reduces the initial pressure so that drag racers get slip off the line. Use heavy duty Barnett springs, Use new OE clutch frictions. Use only good quality motorcycle oils . . . avoid car oils with friction modifiers.

If you are having problems disengaging the lockup clutch you have too much weight on the arms. I run an aluminium capscrew and nut only on each arm, and have springs at standard installed height. Running 240 hp and can still pull in the clutch (with effort).

My experience is that kevlar frictions are more prone to slippage, and I have had clutch shudder with carbons in a race application. Stockers are grippier, and have a predictable lockup point.

Standard engine should only need standard springs.

The best clutch frictions are genuine from Suzuki. Stay away from kevlar or carbon based compounds.

No, it is a fact. Good mate of mine bought a top end eddy current brake Dyno that read true rear wheel horsepower. Customers complained that his dyno read lower than local Dynojet inertia dynos, so he went back to the manufacturers who were fully aware of the correction factor required. They added in the correction factor and everyone was happy. I could find out the exact factor . . . I am sure it was 15 to 16%. That is why you need to know what dyno and what correction factors are used to produce charts. A lot of things affect the dyno readings . . . and a lot of operators know how to exploit that.

The Dynojet dyno figures add about 15% to rear wheel hp correct up for flywheel horsepower. I have not come across restrictors, but different countries restricted the carbs down from 40mm to 38mm. After 23 years you would expect the engine to be down on power.

GSXR1100W in a race car. 1118cc, 9:1 compression ratio, Hahn 16G turbo (Mitsubishi) with internal wastegate and Kinugawa actuator, 30cm x 30cm x 10cm intercooler. Oil scavenge by pimp pump driven off water pump. Electric water pump (EBP x 2) by Davies Craig. Engine Management: Microsquirt V3 based ECU running fuel only Ignition system: Dyna 2000 programmable ignition with pressure switch for boost retard. 2 bar MAP sensor. Tech Edge WBO2 controller. Throttle bodies: Hilborn/Kinsler (46mm). Injectors: 52lb Delphi. Ignition coils: Dyna green coils. Fuel system: Facet cube pump feeding swirl pot for Bosch 979 pump, Bosch 3 bar pressure regulator Upgraded alternator to 40 amp output (Triumph) to handle electrical loads at low rpm.

Fried the alternator on my 1100W blow through EFI turbo setup. Discovered that the stock alternator is not up to the task for sustained low rpm's. Adapted a 40 amp alternator from a Triumph . . . charging problems solved 170 bhp/100 ft.lbs . . . I can get that out of 1145 normally aspirated, so something is definitely wrong with your setup.