wombat258

All my tuning is on the race track with a data logger, and an AFR meter in front of me. I start rich and work it back to best power/speed. If I see lean get off the gas and correct it before going back on the track. I can get three track days for the cost of one dyno session, and have a lot of fun on the track even when tuning. With a dyno you are a spectator and hoping that the operator has enough knowledge to not lunch your engine while he learns what to do, and lets face it every dyno operator is learning what your engine needs. I do professional failure analysis on engines for a living, and most of them have failed during or shortly after a dyno session.

I am running ignition cut only on paddle shifted turbo EFI at 12 psi boost with no problems. Admittedly I am using a closed loop system that shifts in 12 to 30 ms. It would probably be different with a slower timer based shift cut system.

Google Bosch TMAP sensor. Pin 2 is the charge temperature sensor, and can be wired in appropriately.

The Triumph alternator is a bit heavier than stock, plus the weight of the adaptor. The weight gain was justified by being able to idle the engine without loosing charge. Plus, the stock alternator has poor cooling to the regulator, so that if you spend a lot of time at low rpm the regulator overheats and blows. The Triumph alternator has a huge heat sink on the regulator and a better cooling fan. Pulling 24 amps on a 28 amp alternator only works if you are at full rpm all the time.

You have to adapt the male W spline to a rubber coupler for the Triumph. I wanted to be able to use an unmodified Triumph alternator for easy replacement.

I had the same problem with the alternator, and eventually the regulator failed. I upgraded to the Triumph 40 amp alternator (a lot of work), and have had no problems since then.

A 2.3 litre NA engine that produced 150 hp at 5500rpm . . . not really a high performance engine compared to the gixxers. Just my 2 cents.

Turbine housing too small for the engine, and you are probably overspeeding the turbo. See if you can find a larger cm2 housing for that turbo (TD04?).

I use OEM pressed wire exhaust gaskets and have not had a problem with the bolts loosening. I did have the turbo flange nuts loosen, but loctite solved that problem.

BTW use yellow tach wire out of the Dyna 2000. Ignition settings in Microsquirt 3 - Rising edge, Trigger rise, Trigger wheel teeth = 0. That should cover it.

Yes Microsquirt does fuel and spark after adding ignition drivers, a trigger wheel on the crank, and a camshaft sensor. In my case I already had a programable Dyna 2000, so I had nothing to lose about going fuel only. It is a race application so no low rpm stuff, who cares about emmisions, and batch fired injection works perfectly well at WOT. I have a crank sensor to adapt and could machine up the trigger wheel, but while I have a reliable stable system, why bother. I will try it one day and no doubt I will find absolutely no difference in on-track performance. Just like finding out that the speeds and lap times between the normally aspirated injected engine were no different to the engine with FCR carbs.

I am running fuel only Microsquirt 3 using Dyna 2000 and the tacho input on a turbo GSXR1100W here in Oz.. Easy peasy.

My crank adaptor has a 1" hex so that I can use a nice long wrench to turn the crank slowly and accurately, the end steps down to suit the bore of the degree wheel, and then a separate flat clamp sandwiches the degree wheel using a long M8 capscrew. To determine TDC I use a Peacock dial gauge and thread adaptor . . . I prefer it over hard stops that most people use.

243 is OK. You still have to clean the oil out the threads to get best strength.

Blue, Loctite 242.

Camshaft bolts should not loosen, and locking washers are a waste of time. Use Loctite on clean threads (degreased), and it helps if you use an excess so that it forms a solid slug in the sprocket slot. I dont use a torque wrench, and just lean on a long series 10mm ring spanner a bit harder than an M6 bolt . . . I have not sheared an M7 camshaft bolt to date. Check that you have not broken teeth off the crank gear.

If you go the OE ECU route you are relying on someone else to setup, burn etc. You are relying on them if everything turns to shit again, as it has to you in the past. Going to Microquirt or Megasquirt, you do the setup and programming (and they are easy/comprehensive) and have all the files to back up if something happens down the track. There are a lot of people who have baseline setups that will get you going, and with Tunerstudio it will even tune the engine while you run it (if you can strap a notebook on the bike). The dyno guys will bluff you that only they have the knowledge to set up an ECU or you will risk engine damage. The fact is that in some cases they will do damage to your engine on the dyno and shrug that sometimes "that happens". The MS3 has great features to do fuel and spark, and a whole lot more. I prefer the cheaper cased Microsquirt to do fuel only (it can do spark), and use a programmable Dyna 2000 for the spark . . . less mucking around with trigger wheels and sensors. As Tombala said, the looms are nicely identified to aid installation. I have installed on turbo GSXR 1100W under full race conditions and keep turning up the boost ,and adding more fuel . . . easy peasy.

Only a fraction of the time that you should spend on prepping the joints properly, or making fixtures to properly purge the inside of the pipes. Its really not that hard, and it avoids those nasty dags hanging inside your exhaust.

I use Sola welding flux on the inside of the stainless tubes when I TIG, and it gives a nice finish on the inside of the tubes without purge. I weld the headers on an old head. Tight fitting prepped joints anjd generous tacks help avoid distortion.

Main bearing diameters are the same between 1100 and 750. Crankpins are matched to conrods, so 1100 rods must be used with 1100 crank, and 750 rods must be used with 750 crank. You have to transplant all the 1100 gear in the crankcases to the 750 crankcase to use them. Done it, raced it, no problems.

No cooling passages in that EB block - drag race only.

That is a Bosch 0280160526 fuel regulator in an adaptor housing. Replace it with the same part. They are normally very reliable. I can only see the boost/vacuum port (left), and one of the fuel lines (right). One fuel line is out of image view.

I respect your opinion but it is well documented that lower AFR reduces octane demand of turbocharged engines. It does not overheat the turbine. I have raced at 11.9 AFR with no det or overheating and the engine and turbo look great. My race car has serious aero and fully loads the engine on race tracks for extended times. But hey, if you believe in your theory stick with it. If you want to go serious boost though, or have an inefficient turbo with no intercooler, you will have to use high octane race fuel. I am happy at 270hp so no need for high boost and the headaches that go with it.

I run 9:1 on 11psi, with 98RON fuel. Target AFR is 11.9 at full boost. Higher boost requires lower AFR. Timing should not be over 28 degrees. Valves only seat on the 45 degree cut, with the other angles used to determine the seating width and flow characteristics. BTW WC's hate large overbores . . . very difficult to get head gasket seal . . . that is why I prefer 1118cc for turbo.

Piston failed by pre-ignition/detonation . . . caused by too much ignition timing, too much boost or too high compression ratio for boost/fuel octane. If it was overtheating the dyno run should have been aborted, as that raises the octane demand of the engine as well. Glazing is just excess oil from blowby when pistons failed. Valve seat looks fine, so do not stress about that. The boost/comp ratio/octane/timing needs to be sorted. The engine probably wanted to be rich to avoid eating itself, and when the tuner leaned it out the damage occured. My turbo 1100W does not puke oil out the breather - 4 race meetings and not a single drop in the tank. If I see oil in the puke tank on any of my engines I know to back off ignition timing. I run very conservative compression ratios for boost to avoid this sort of problem.