wombat258

Standard as-cast port.

Seen it in used engines I have bought as well. Usually associated with rust at the bared areas. I have assumed it was due to old oil in a poorly serviced engine. Could be cheapo plates. I always use genuine.

Should all be the same. What else could they have stuffed up? Send them back.

I have seen a lot of race pistons in stroked car engines machined with the oil ring exposed into the wrist pin hole, and they work successfully. It is an oil scraper and does not need to form a seal on the lower ring land. If you do not like them, send them back. On a bike engine I personally would have used a piston with normal ring pack, and spaced the barrel to suit the stroked crank.

Never stated they were stock pistons. Cannot bore water cooled barrels past 79.5mm, and even then it is near impossible to keep head gaskets sealed. Need to offset bores 1.5mm, and open deck design does not allow for that. And before you chime in, I have run offset bores in circuit race applications with no Carrillo conrod or bearing problems.

I am looking at making a water cooled 1100W billet big block to take 83mm Gen 1 Hayabusa pistons. Waiting for my machinist to price it up for me. I am using my current Super Bike Mike block as a guide. Need new one for the spare engine, and the SBM one is due for resleeving.

Yes. Early Dyna 2000 only allowed kill or retard using the orange wire, and setting the knob as you said. Problem is that using retard locks out being able to use the different timing curves, and you have to use a different method for shift cut.

Only on the Dyna 2000 with the programmable option. The unit is easily identified by the extra 3 wires coming out of the box. From memory the purple wire activates the retard function, blue or white wires are are programmable rpm switches (I use them for shift lights). The orange wire in the harness activates the engine kill.

Usually the o-rings on the float seats dry out and shrink, allowing the fuel to seep through and flood the engine. Buy replacement o-rings from Suzuki.

Yes, clearance the cases and chamfer the rod bolts. Do not use top down rods. They are weaker and break . . . expensive experience!

1100W engines use MLS pressed steel gaskets. They do not settle like the old composite gaskets, and do not need retorquing..

I made my mechanical scavenge pump using the oil pump gears from a H O N D A CT90. Works perfectly in place of the water pump on the WC engine,

I have only seen them on the WP engines, and the alternator shaft lengths are different. Pull the alternator and you will see the rubber coupler around the female drive splne.

The rubber coupling on the earlier models wears out leading to noise, then eventually fails. Later models did not have the rubber coupler. The aluminium bush workaround works well on the earlier alternator drives. You could always buy the genuine replacement part from Suzuki.

Drill extra holes into the inner basket to provide more cooling oil to the pack.

Depends on the brand of mineral oil and what friction modifiers they use. If it is a car oil it should not be used in a bike engine. Car oils do not have to cope with wet clutches, and their friction modifiers ruin clutch frictions immediately.

My experience... 290 hp turboed 1100WC doing circuit race work in a car with 10" slicks and wings. Used the same clutch pack for 3 years racing with NO slip, even when pulling from 4500 rpm out of corners. Used both diaphragm and coil spring MTC lockups. The clutch pedal is not overly heavy. Used lower spring/higher weight setup for 1300 hillclimb in car for hillclimbs because needed to launch harder, but had to keep rpm's above 6000 to avoid slip. User even less spring/low weights in the old Z1R with 1270(?) kit in a laydown dragbike to do hard launches. 8.9's at 149mph on 6" car tyre slick.

If you are not drag racing, and only need the lockup to cope with the extra torque of the turbo, you need more spring pressure, and not more weight. Think about it . . . if you had the same spring pressure as a set of Barnetts on the pressure plate when the engine is not spinning, the clutch lever would be stiff, and would ALMOST be able to handle the turbo. You need only a bit more pressure, and this is supplied by the weights when the clutch output shaft is spinning. Low spring and high weights = flat out launches in drag racing. High spring and low weights = broad operation of engine for circuit or street, without the stiff clutch feel at the lights. For diaphragm cluch use HD springs and extra seating washers to increase the spring pressure to standard installed height. For coil springs add washers to get springs to standard installed height.

Looks like corrosion stains. Light hone and run it. It should be OK.

My first one was a 421 with the pipes entering directly into the small area flange, but it was a bit restrictive, and was prone to cracking. Current pipes exit into a collector cone merged into the turbo flange . . . much better flow and supports the turbo better to avoid cracking. I also used a scrap head to make the welding jig and avoid distortion.

People will argue that you HAVE to do it one way or another. I personally run my BOV between the turbo and intercooler with no problems. I also like the fact that it dumps hot charge, and not cooled charge.

Looks like you are blowing out the spark with the rich mixture. Close up the plug gaps and lean out the mixture.

Use the bay, or just buy some steel plate and cut/drill your own . . . not difficult if you are only making one-offs.

I run a sump, and a check valve in the oil supply line. Never had a drop of oil leak from the turbo, and never a trace of smoke from the exhaust.

Typical dyno sessions "down under" start at $300. Track days near here are $110 per day, and I get at least 5 x 15 minute sessions. Last time at the track I could pull up on track, adjust the EBC, and get back into it. And when I was finished I went onto the track and went flat out for a few sessions. Doing another track day next week to bed in the new brake discs *wink*