wombat258

Use a 1052 clutch hub, pressure plate and springs with the 750W input shaft and the 1100W basket, plates etc. You will have to remove the plug from the end of the hollow 750 shaft, and replace it with a support spider from a 1100W donor shaft. Easy hydraulic conversion. Will it last? Maybe if you do not flog it. Necessary? The 1100 engine has lots of torque, so no real necessity for a close range gearbox. And, no need for the Factory Pro star, just transfer ALL the 750 gearbox bits including drum, forks, selector shaft etc.

You can use the 1100W pan without oil cooler. Remove the internal restrictor that you can see through one of the oil cooler outlets, and plug the oil cooler ports. The oil cooler normally works on a partial oil flow.

Just buy them from the Suzuki dealer? Used ones are hard and/or cracked.

I have one in use, but I am not selling. Be aware that they were supplied with water jackets or without jackets. They are indeed very rare to find.

Nothing wrong with std alternator unless you are drawing extra load for EFI. You can use the earlier series (1993) alternator and drive assembly to remove the rubber bush, or alternatively you can machine an aluminium bush to replace the rubber.

There are XG and XC series rings. They have different ring thickness. You may have ordered the wrong series. Measure the width of your old rings. XG are 1mm top, 1mm 2nd, 2mm oil. XC are 1mm/1.2mm/2.8mm. Rarer are XA at 0.8mm/0.8mm/1.5mm

Wiseco recommendations. Multiply bore in inches by the factor to give ring gap. 3" bore equals .015" top, .0165" second for street turbo. Go too tight and the rings can butt with heat and score bores or crack upper ring land. Loose is the way to go to avoid engine damage.

Piston to bore clearance is governed by alloy, bore size and application. Check JE's recommendations, but if OP's engine was quiet at running temps the clearance will be fine. I regularly see these scuff marks andthey do not hurt performance or reliability. I would only be concerned if there was scoring or damage to the ring pack. Of course, if a slealership tore it down you would be up for new pistons and a rebore. Revisiting the original post . . . top land crushing down on the ring is indicative of either excessive heat and temperature, or pistons contacting the head. Hopefully just a bit of excess carbon in the ring groove.

Looks pretty normal skirt scuffing to me. Oil film might be breaking down at operating temperatures. Oil brand/grade/service intervals should be assessed. 0.14mm (.0055") piston to bore is OK. Hone it and you will be fine. Check crank is running true and indexed. Could be the vibration problem if it was not welded.

Port with restrictor is oil inlet. Directly opposite that is the oil drain with 2 tapped holes either side. The other 4 ports are the water ports - blank off 2 and run the water inlet/outlet either side of the centre section.

Corrosion because of condensation sitting in bores over a long period. Give it a hone and see if it cleans up.

Should be internally restricted. Look at the oil inlet to confirm. I added my own restrictor to be sure.

Electric pumps are simple, heavy, unreliable (not designed for high oil temperatures), and draw a lot of current on a small charging system, especially if you go EFI. Mechanical is light, reliable if designed correctly, draws no current, and has little parasitic drain on HP. Either way works in scavenging oil from the turbo, but have their own merits and limitations.

Breather so you are not pulling a vacuum on the bearings and not influencing oil flow. Turbos are designed to have a free flow from the drain. In cases were that is not possible (turbo below sump), the sump allows for free drain, and the scavenge/breather setup removes the oil at atmospheric pressure. The added bonus is that on shutdown the surplus oil sits in the sump and cannot drain back into the turbo. I made mine from aluminium RHS with end caps, and crush spacers for the bolts to the turbo.

Large enough to de-aerate the oil, scavenge line low and small diameter (AN6 OK), breather line high. My tank is 2"x 3"x 6", bolted direct to the turbo body, and has an internal baffle. I have an intentional dip in the scavenge hose to keep oil near the pump so it primes readily. Scavenges well. Never smokes on start.

Throw a set of stock carbs and ignition in it and see if the alternator works OK. Go forward from there.

I had to make an adaptor because the Daytona alternator is completely different to the W alternator. I came across a website that did the conversion for Bandit requiring only some offset drilling of the mounting holes . . . will see if I can track it down tonight (Oz time). I also suggest you log the running of the engine with Tunerstudio to see if you can get a better idea of what causes the engine to cut at high rpm. I found that the default injector voltage pulse correction is way too high (0.2?) and I ended up with a pulse correction of around 0.12. Your table may also be way out . . . AFR trends should help you work out which way to go. Regulator pressure should be 45psi. What regulator are you running (hopefully 1:1 pressure compensated).

Plus wide band and charging battery 14A + 8A + 1A =23A. Pushing the 28A alternator to the limit. Had same problems with 1100W alternator at 21A draw. Worked OK at full noise, but extended idling or low rpm work and the regulator shut down due to heat overload. The Mosfet upgrade is less prone to heat buildup. I went for a Triumph alternator - 45 amps capacity, and charges strong at idle.

Those alternators will only handle a maximum of 40 amps output, so it will pay for you to work out how much you are trying to pull out of the system with all your accessories running. A clamp style current meter is handy to work that out. The alternators do not do well at idle, and you can overload the regulator quickly if it is trying to excite the rotor to maximum capacity at low engine speeds.

GSXR750 has same main bearing size, but smaller conrod bearings.No experience with 600's.

If no spark I would charge the battery, and retry for spark. If the voltage goes too low while cranking the ignition does not work. Change the plugs if they are fouled with carbon. If the headlights cannot be turned off pull the plugs on the globes to give you more current to start the engine. If you do get it started check that the alternator is charging. Simple test for ignition is to wiggle a screwdriver in the air gap between the pickup and rotor with the ignition on . . . it triggers the spark. If the ignition does not work you will have to get a manual, as suggested.

Have you tried genuine replacements?

I use copper head gaskets on a water-cooled 1300cc circuit race engine with no problems. O-ringed block, flame annealed copper, and copper coat sealer.

+1 for Dezza's response. I also find it helps to pre-bend the inner cable to get it to loop around the drum.

Yes, with a lot of patience.