Blower1

I think the skimming of the block is needed only when using Bandit 1200 or Hayabusa pistons with AC liners. AC liners are shorter than 1075 or 1135 liners and Bandit & Busa piston deck height are lower than GSX (Busa about 2,5 - 3 mm and Bandit about 2mm)

Use the 1000 original camwheels. If you putting 34T wheels insted of 30T you will get totally different gear ration and after first crankshaft round the valves will hit the pistons.

Engine block/crankcase need to bore for larger sleeves. Skimming from bottom will leave more material on top where it´s needed.

Engine block need to bore for bigger liners, fwd cam chain guide need to shorten 3mm, if skimming block from bottom the aft cam chain guide bolt head need to grind down, if using external oil feed the oil feeding on the engine block need to plug as well as in the cylinder head, adjustable camshaft sprockets, when boring stock cyliner block for Bandit or other OC liners can be good idea machine o-ring grooves in the bottom of the liner bores and use o-rings to stop the oil weeping up and out.

One problem with long (or wrong) stored cranks is moisture in the crank bearings. I have so far dismantled two otherwise nearly perfect crankshafts but found them scrap because rust has destroyed the crank pin bearing surfaces.

I know two nearly identical 1296cc EFE engines tested in the same dyno. One with EFE BS36SS carbs, APE pods and Dynojet kit and other with GSXR 40mm CV carbs. The one with BS36SS carbs made few HP less, but about 10Nm more than the other with 40mm CV carbs.

Those small ridges on the seal face should lay against the crankshaft bearing. Then the seal is deep enough in the engine block. When installing the seal in the engine block, put slightly rtv-silicone on the outer edge of the seal.

If you moving the headlights below the oil cooler it would look much better. Now it´s like ET standing in the top of the cooler.

They have been serviced about 8000 km ago. I have no idea about factory settings. Actually forks are quite ok, but could perform better.

I have 1990 GSXR 750 USD front forks on my cafe EFE. I know it´s are not the best front forks, but are there any way to modify them to perform better without to spend fortune to special parts? Bike is about 200 kg and me about the half of the bike weight with riding gear on.

Loctite 5188 is good but removing parts can be difficult later. I have used Hylomar because it´s easier to open later. I have blended one part of Hylomar to two parts of acetone and then by using small paint brush painted both sealing surfaces. After the parts have dried an hour I have assembled them.

The plug (DR8ES) thread is M12x1.25 at least on GSX 1100 EFE engines.

My supercharged -86 EFE. Eaton M45 from Mini Cooper S, 1327cc + all the needed stronger engine internals. Fuel & spark controlled by MS-efi made by Arttu. Bike is mixed user but mostly run with E85. Slightly over 200 rwhp and enough torque at least for me.

It can be good idea to check clutch balance also. Clutch is a big rotating mass and if not in balance, can cause vibrations.

0,14mm is a lot! On my supercharged EFE 0,11mm clearance made piston slap, but pistons were Busa pistons, not JE. Now with JE pistons there are 0,05mm clearance. No piston slap and no scuffing marks on liners.

Cylinder sleeve bore can be enlargened to 84mm without risk of break through. Bigger bores are possible, but there will be risk of oil leaks from cooling finn area break throughs and the cylinder block is not so ridgid anymore.

Welcome to OSS! Delkevic is making exhaust for GSX 1100 E, Black Widow Bandit 1200 exhaust will fit with some modifications & spigots as well as Delkevic Badit 1200 exhaust. I have Delkevic Bandit 1200 down pipes on my 1984 GSX 1100 EFE. Mid pipe and muffler are home made.

I have run Busa pistons in my supercharged GSX on 0.05mm piston to bore clearance with E85 fuel.

Nice bike! Why to put thread locker on case cover screws?

Which working a lot better when get the clutch steel discs level grinded. Even the new discs are not evenly thick.

I had one TB on my supercharged EFE. First there was 65mm TB before supercharger, It was really difficult to ride at low speeds and throttle response was really poor thanks to about 4 litre volume between TB and engine. Idle was impossible to get steady. It oscillates between 1000 - 3000 rpm. Next step was blow through 44mm TB with mechanical blow off valve. It was a lot better, but still the throttle reponse was a little slow. With 44mm TB there was 222 rw HP. After 80% throttle opening fuel map remains nearly same. I think with one 44mm TB is possible to get about 250 rw HP. Now there are "normal" set up with 4x32mm TB:s and 65mm mechanical blow off valve. Throttle response is nice and linear.

I´ve 1296cc in my EFE with original carbs, SPS JR3 cams and Delkevic Bandit downpipes & free flow muffler. Nice torque from idle to redline, 144rwHP / 136rwNm.

Get MLS gasket. No need to play with piano wires, different sealers with copper gasket and no oil leaks. Copper head gaskets tends to leak oil even whatever sealers are used.

I took valve lifts every 10 degrees and made picture with autocad. Blue is intake valve opening time, cyan is original exhaust and red is intake cam on exhaust. There are quite big differences on exhaust valve openings. With intake cam the exhaust valve opens more agressively.

If you put oil cooler that big, you definitely need to install oil stat also.