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badger

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Everything posted by badger

  1. Also if they weren't genuine orings in there they never last, been there and done it. Worth going genuine for those everytime
  2. Awesome! Much appreciated, thanks Clive!
  3. Never taken a turbo apart what so ever so wanted to ask some grown ups 1st! Cool cool, that sounds pretty straight forward!
  4. Digging this back up again, waste gate actuator was replaced for a kingawa one. Massive improvement on how boost comes on and creep BUT problem is still there. Is boring out the waste gate as straight forward a job as YouTube would have me believe? Anything complicated in pulling the turbo apart? Thanks guys
  5. A brace from carb rubbers to the plenum. Stops the plenum from moving back and popping off
  6. A pirelli diablo supercorsa 180/60 scrubs hard on my chain, a continental race attack has about 10mm clearance.
  7. Old pic Fbm kit 1216 Busa pistons, carillo rods, ihi bb turbo Not being dynod. Hoping around 250 when set up Hoping to have it on the road again ASAP
  8. If you don't want to leave tape on, buy a cheapo hose coupling things (so you can clamp two hoses together) do that up most the way, slide it up so the cut end bit of hose is in it and then put the end fitting on. By miles the easiest way I've done it
  9. A mate has offered to make me a stainless one. He's very handy on a lathe. I will take him up on it but it'll be ages until it happens. That dust seal would be handy!
  10. I've thought about it in the past but I like the hydraulic clutch. Thats what happened to the last one but there was pitting on the piston under the seal. Lasted a few months but leaked again while stood up over winter. Found a nearly new one on Eblag from Lithuania. Will turn up one day. I've had another one powder coated so will Rob the piston out of the new one. Hoping that sorts it!
  11. Ahoy! So..... I have an extensive collection of slave cylinders. They all fucking leak, changed seals etc. The pistons are in a pretty crappy state. Is there any other bikes you can steal them off?
  12. Tim Blakemore is in Bristol for dyno. Who I intend to see with mine at some point
  13. Different plugs and higher rpm limit I think
  14. I've got a gsxr 1100 wheel, k8 disc, caliper and hanger. Not 100% but I think the spacing caliper to disc is the same pretty much across the board
  15. Deffo not the a30 and there aren't any roads towards the lizard or st.Austell with massive straights and no turn offs Impressive that 3rd gear roll ons never see above 70mph
  16. OK. Again going off what dave recommended and put together. I'll have a see if there's any identification on it. I'll probably pick up at some point then. Sounds like a good solution and a lot cheaper and easier than an external set up!
  17. I've had a total mental block on what models they were! I ask dave if he remembers and he said Either a 23 “ 28 or 29. I thought it was a 34 and something. It is on a stock actuator. I havent checked the diaphragm in it for holes bit I will. The arm coming out the turbo connecting to the valve is whats in the way but I've seen people machining this down rewelding. Are the kingawa actuators OK then? If I can so the above you you've not had issues would resolve a bunch of problems! Thanks!
  18. Sooooooooooo, My internal waste gate is set too 16psi but it doesn't stay there long! It will just keep going up and up. I have an IHI vf hybrid and i've read this is a common-ish problem. Anyone else had an issue and what was a resolve? Im assuming an external waste gate will be best? I do have a bit of a fitment issue as the WG actuator arm sits pretty much in my oil filter and has twice stabbed a hole in it in 1500 miles!
  19. Dave said for me to stick with the f lump on mine. IHI bb turbo, 16psi and fingers crossed about 260bhp. Be it it's only done 1500 miles the oil in it looks new and no glittery business. Also have had some boost creep issues and seen 22psi a few times. Very much still in one piece
  20. Nice! Head stock bearings, wheel bearings, yokes not tight/bent. All worth a check
  21. Ahoy! Would 34mm teapot carbs work on 36mm rubbers? I.E are they the same? The ones I have on my bike are a bit of a loose/ easy to take in and out. It back fires like fuck when cold on the most part and improves when warm. afr shows lean spikes while backfiring
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