badger
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Posts posted by badger
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2 hours ago, peter1127 said:
If there is boost creap, be careful. Boost could get higher then intended. I assume you have an inernal wastegate with actuator. If you tighten that wastegate to get higher boost, it also cant open much resulting in boost creap. For higher boost, better use an actuator with stronger spring, or a boost controller.
I do yes. I did replace the actuator for a better one which didn't help. It's got a 1 bar spring. I do keep an eye on it but it's not ideal, prefer to be keeping an eye on what's Infront of me
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If you have no oil pressure your warning light would be saying hello, assuming the switch is working etc. Maybe turn it over by hand and see if oil starts coming out from somewhere it should? I.e. cam feed on the back of the head or a cooler line.
What makes you think it's been held back in some way?
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On 3/28/2024 at 3:29 PM, Arttu said:
Sounds like the wastegate is opening already at 10psi and then there is boost creep at higher rpm.
A boost controller should help building boost faster. It will help to keep the gate closed until you hit the target. But it can't help with the creep, if the gate can't flow enough to keep the boost down then the controller can't do anything to lower the boost.
Any way, if you feel that the turbo is spooling up slower than it should it's good to check carefully all possible exhaust and boost leaks. Especially exhaust leaks will affect a lot on spool-up.
That's makes a fuck load of sense! I hadn't considered the waste gate at all! I'll wind that in and see if it improves! Thank you
On 3/28/2024 at 1:19 PM, Reinhoud said:If you ever use a boost controler, use one with a ball and spring. These build up boost way faster. Bleed valves just bleed/leak, this takes longer to actuate the waste gate.
Ball spring controllers you recognise on nipples on the bottom, and one 90 degrees on the side
That makes sense. I'll have a fuck about with the wastegate and see what happens. What arttu said about boost creep is a good point. I've had a look at the opening of the waste gate and there's fuck all material left to take out so I don't know what else I can really do to help that.
Thanks again for the replies!!
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Same turbo and does similar. Mine starts boost about 3500rpm, stays at about 10psi for ages but doesn't hit 1 bar until 8-9k. (14psi spring and I do get boost creep sometimes). I'm sure it used to build boost a lot quicker but I'm questioning that.
To those that know, would a softer, say 6psi spring and a digital boost controller alter that characteristic letting the controller cap the limit higher, i.e 15psi etc?
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I've got 16-47 on mine, mostly as that's what I had to hand. Haven't ridden it like that though. I can't remember my wheel base but roughly 4 inches over on an 1100l wheelbase
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Got an in tank set up on mine. Space was at a premium!
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My brother has some Chinese ones and was pretty impressed.
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I'm running mine at a bar of boost and no dramas.
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Well....
Fitted the new seal. Pump had proper flow and after a few mins went back to shit.
The new pre pump filter arrived (after the seal) and it wasn't quite the same. Different shape and not as deep which allowed the pump to move a bit. I've used a rubber stop (that came with the pump) to take up the space. It appears to have done the job. I'm not gonna temp faite but I've hit boost and it's not shit it's pants about it. Had proper pressure again when I got home.
I'm still not sure exactly what the issue is/was. I don't know if the old filter was blocking the pump? It's clear but I wonder if it was getting squished on the bottom? Either way, for now it's working. Weird though that it was giving exactly the same flow after each test. If it was blocked I would have thought it would give varying results.
Everyone loves a photo. Black line is the flow I got when it was weird after 10 secs. Fuel line is what it's doing now after 5
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
In-Tank pre pump filters!
You need them to protect the pump but they are usually tiny micron level filtration and once blocked its 'good nite Vienna'
They can't be cleaned to any great degree or return to useful service and from what i've seen / experienced with others - they aren't a servicable part so whole assembly needs replacing . . . . . . . who'd have thought a WHOLE pump assembly would be a service item, designed for failure!
You can swap out the pre pump filter. There is another on inside the plastic housing post pump and they're not replaceable and 350 odd quid!
I have a new pre pump filter arriving tomorrow hopefully. The old one seems fine. There's no obvious blockage or restriction there. If I get a chance I'll pull it all to bits, take a bunch of pics. A few bits needed modifying to fit a bigger pump but that was done years ago without drama.
I've had it apart again tonight (typed everything before but didn't get time to finish before work) and I've wired up and led to the fuel pump so if the pump loses voltage I'll see. Idea off Wayne rotty!
When I took it apart there was a split in one of the o rings. Which I think happened when I last put it in as I checked it before I pushed it together. It could have been the problem but I don't think so. After rebuilding it it put out the same amount of fuel in 2 secs as it did in 10 previous.
I think something is unseating after been run for a little bit. I do think there's a separate wiring issue there too.
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59 minutes ago, Joseph said:
I guess you've checked it but is your fuel tank venting enough ?
Vents fine.
1 hour ago, Fredrik_Steen said:Are you loosing pressure after 5 minutes or what is the issue?
Fuel flow drops of a cliff. Doesn't return until I've pulled the pump housing apart and started over. Short trip on the bike and it vanished again
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The bike is literally driving me fucking insane.
Taken the fuel pump housing apart a million times. (Gsxr1000 k7 in a custom tank) Rebuilt with a new pump (walbro gss342) etc and I have perfect fuel flow. Ride it for 5 mins and I have a fucking trickle again. Tried wiring straight off the battery and it's the same. I'm beyond lost with fixing it. 2 months and I can't figure out what it's doing.I've still got the internal regulator be it modified. Which could cause the problem but it seems to be doing what it should be. I can't find anything about the problem I'm having. I know I'm clutching at straws asking but any ideas would be massively appreciated!
Might just roll it into a bin at this point. -
4 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
What FPR is it? Malpassi ? i'm guessing with a cut down spring to get the low pressure required?
Malpassi. They do one now that runs lower psi but it's identical but with a softer spring.
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Haven't ridden it to check (raining again) but when I took the regulator apart, diaphragm looked fine, spring wasn't sticking or anything but when I reassembled it I've gained 1psi base pressure. I'd guess something wasn't right and now it's reseated itself? Need to stick some miles in and see if it behaves
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I keep getting an issue of at random getting zero static fuel pressure or at best very little. No leaks. 1st time it did it I had .3 psi so limped home off boost and adjusted the regulator to 2.5 and it was fine for 5 miles then did it again. Turned the pump on and off a few times and was back to normal but I can't repeat it doing that. Any ideas what's causing it? Is my regulator fucked? I'm gonna take it off shortly and check the diaphragm. Fuel pump, as far as I can tell is fine. I went as far as checking the seals inside of it for damage but all looks fine. The pump hasn't stopped running or anything clogged.
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My turbo smart bov wasn't opening on the lightest spring which basically turned out to still be way to heavy. My brother did some shopping for me and bought me a box of springs and even then the lightest one of those was still a bit to heavy. Cut 2 rings off and it's happy. You can shop for springs by dimensions and they're cheap cheap when you buy from a spring place. Bit of guess work involved involved by what spring weight you need though
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28 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
The one thing that's costs nothing but you will learn the most from is put clear white line on tyre sidewall "shoe white is good" then get someone to stand about 30 degrees to the rear and video you leaving the line and run .
you will then see what is actually happening to suspension , tyre, etc and what you are really doing ...
Will do! Thanks!
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13 hours ago, Duckndive said:
i looked in your project thread but it dont mention what clutch you are using ..?
If its a diaphragm unit then "IMO" tuning the static "base pressure" is a lot harder than on a coil spring unit where you can mess with different springs and spring combinations ….
Drop your tyre pressure something like 15 psi and have a go Suspension also has a big role to play in getting off the line .
Pauls bike Ran a coil spring clutch with 4 "tired" springs with a 49mm Stack and 90 Thou air gap with a 75 shot up its ass from the go so 180 BHP on a good day in a long bike with a 7" Slick but it was strip only 1.4 60fts
With a road / RWYB there is always a trade off and low 60fts mean more clutch maintenance ….
Gsxf motor, 4 spring clutch with a lock up.
I wasn't just dumping the clutch but even easing it out I was spinning. You've all said the track/ road what ever is gonna be different again and again. I think the consistency I want isn't really gonna happen. Not the way that I'd like.
I'll lower the tyre a lot more when I'm at the track. Need a pump, mines died
I've been pissing about with suspension for more road readiness which feels much less forgiving wheelie and spinning wise.
I'll take my laptop racing and see how it goes and adjust some rpms from there but I'm not gonna expect a miracle. Sadly you don't get a 60ft time at the track which is wank. Years back, pre turbo I was doing pretty consistent 1.6-7 which I was happy with.
Massively appreciate the input. I'm gutted there's one strip in a realistic travelling distance!
I want a nine. 2 dudes have managed it on bikes so I want in on that bandwagon
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9 hours ago, Duckndive said:
for a 2 step you normally just set low RPM and what ever your rev limit is
pull clutch in "or what ever your using" pre stage bike 1st amber then 2nd amber wind throttle to WOT "bike sits at pre set low RPM"
hold on tight throw the clutch let go of button or what ever rpms rise clutch does its thing shift gear a few times collect ticket review data
adjust settings to improve "reduce wheel spin etc" and repeat
I guess I'm going the right way with it but I've been totally over thinking it.
Practice is super hard as there isn't a bit of road long enough that's quiet enough. Traction really was an issue but all I had was a shit bit of road.
100% needs better suspension set up. Traction felt better with a softer set up which I might go back to for a rwyb in a few weeks.
I'm at utter newb it doing this in an adult fashion. Always just felt it out but wanna be more consistent!
Thanks guys
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On 4/2/2023 at 5:50 PM, rerb said:
Right, yep. I got it programmed in and was set to a flip switch, I just wasn't sure how to get it to play nice with the clutch switch itself. I'm going to try starting the bike, disconnecting the jump, and see if that works. It'll also double as a no lift shift aswell which is nice. For whatever reason the bike hates clutchless shifting under boost, but is fine off boost
Have you had a play with the 2step? I've just set mine uptold and had a fuck about. 4k rpm and about 50% throttle. Span a lot.
Launch felt slow really.
What kinda rpms and throttle are you using?
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I had a set of fibres do this once. Weirdly rode fine. They were soaked in oil for 24 hours before going in, oil was fine in the motor and clutch had done a few 1000 miles. Luckily all the squares were accounted for
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They say 38mm but the kit looks like all the right bits. Could message them to confirm. Worst case its not the same and you send it back
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The pins have a habit of sticking like glue. They will come out BUT be super fucking careful because those alu mounts are weak as fuck
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Boost drops
in Forced Induction
Posted
As an update to this, new spring in the bov and all is well