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8 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
I have a set of the above. Been in the cupboard for years. How can I determine if they work? Speedo’s easy enough, not so the RC! No bike to strap them onto, at the minute. And, where can I get some needles? Usual problem!
Muchos!
I think the needles , trim and glass is available at webike japan .
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thnx DnD
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14 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Can't remember isn't it in @uk lee's write up in the Vault.
thnx Clive…. going to give it looksee
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I seem to recall there is a difference in tooth count for the oil pump drivegear that fits on the rear of the basket to do tge conversion …. what is tge tooth count ?
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…. source an 1127 or 1052….. pop it into your chasis and have some fun .
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easy stuff first ! unplug the fuel hose from the petcock ( while in the ON position) if it leaks …. diaphram and spring kit . if the needles and seats are worn and leak …. it will gradually let fuel into the intake tract and into the motor . pop off the oil filler cap … put your nosey by the fill hole and get a good sniff …. if you smell petrol …. you have a problem .
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plug wires on the proper plugs 1-4/2-3 ? how about the petcock ? diaphram good ? needle and seats ? float height ? how many plugs are wet ?
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when you seat the screws before turning out to final adjustment ….be gentle as the tip can break off and become stuck in the orifice . I had to repair a set of rs36’s that the owner fucked up
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7 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Buggered if I'm going to read that lot on my phone! LOL
lol….. took me 20 minutes to get my vision back !
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was looking at some possible solutions to control high heat situations for combustion chambers / piston crowns on boosted motors ..... the calico ct2 looks like a good option . any thoughts on this or have any experience with this product ?
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….or just find a good stock head … send it out for all the machine work and porting …. new seats, bigger valves etc etc …. and perhaps that will give you peace of mind ?….until that very same head develops cracks as well . All those cracks are surface cracks that are in a very narrow portion of the casting … thermal expansion and contraction is what causes the cracks . I had a draw through turbo gsxr with a complete worked head ….water/merh injection ….and all the fancy junk to go fast….. at some point a piston shat itself and upon dissassembly …. guess what …. the head had 2 chambers with small cracks ….. the motor was rebuilt and when on running like a shitty drawthrough does…. made good power and those little cracks did not change a thing .
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On 11/19/2022 at 7:19 AM, Reinhoud said:
Anyone here who actually measured the bores after getting it back from the machine shop? If yes, how accurate was it?
well....if pistons were supplied with the block and customer supplied clearences for bore job....the shop doing the job usually gives you what you ask for . Double checking the final size should be done at the shop before you pay ...once you leave you are on your own .
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is the pitot circuit up to par ?
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… boy… this topic has drifted off course….who gives a fuck about how we all describe shit …. allooominum, aluminium …. lol …. fags = (cigarettes) ( homosexuals)
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easy enough to fix / modify …..all the tubing needed is there allready
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On 6/24/2022 at 4:26 AM, Captain Chaos said:
I'm having the same problem now with my B12 engine and carbs. Roll off the throttle, revs drop slowly. Snap it shut, all ok. With warm engine only. Had been OK for years but a few weeks ago this problem appeared.
Tried new spark plugs, a new throttle cable, no difference. Tried without throttle cable, no difference. Ultrasonic cleaned the carbs and reassembled carefully, no difference.
Now going to adjust the valve clearances (weather permitting, it's too nice to work on the bike, better go for a ride on one of the other bikes ) and see what difference it makes.
Capn'....check for wear on the slide needles
EFE motor… thing of beauty
in Air Cooled
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hotrod satin black 2K