Upshotknothole

GSXR 1100 or blandit 1200 both drop in, really just depends on what's available around you.

They do, but they're shorter and lower compression. Perfect for turbo builds, useless for NA builds.

They're discontinued. Suzuki used the same part on all the oil cooled 1100s. 86-92 GSXR 1100 and the power screen 1100s. Hope that helps with finding a used one off Eblag.

For the price I wish I could trust those rods, but they seem way too good to be true. Looked up my car out of curiosity and all the prices were on par with the cheapest chinese junk on Eblag. Like $50 for a set of 4 coils.

Bumping 6 year old threads is not how you get your post count up.

Bandit 1200 headers are probably the easiest to find. Might have to change out the oil pan and pick up for a bandit one if the header doesn't clear the F oil pan.

I think the pegs were different, but the main plate that attaches to the frame was the same. Also I've been throwing all of my slingshot rear sets into the same box for so long that I really don't know what's what anymore, just know that they all fit.

They used the same part numbers for them, what's different between them? I've always swapped slingshot rear sets between 750s and 1100s. Passenger pegs too, but those do have differences in exhaust hangers. Did the slabbies use different rear sets on the 750s and 1100s?

Probably have better luck over in the forced induction section, but I'm sure one of them will chime in soon enough.

Cool, I'll keep looking. I found one new W one on Eblag, but it's in France and would cost over $130. Screw that.

All of the slingshot and W ones are discontinued. I need a few of them too and have yet to come across any. We never got Inazumas here in the states, I wonder if Suzuki used a similar one on something we did get. Maybe teapots or SVs.

Suzuki has decided to discontinue a lot of them. If you find one that works, doesn't hurt to buy a spare or two if they're available.

Hey now, the Canadians say it the correct way too and they're practically British!

Nope, believe me, I've tried. The only way to get the valve cover off an 1127 in a J/K frame is to remove all the engine mounts except the bottom rear, pull the carbs, and slide the valve cover back, and even then it's a tight squeeze. The J/K 750 frames were the smallest of the slingshot frames, they got taller with the L/M frames.

I think the 1052 engine is the only one that you can do that with. My 1127 in a 750K frame has barely any clearance.

Pretty sure my 750N frame is slightly smaller than my 1100M frame. Not positive, but it seems like the 750 doesn't have more space above the engine than the 1100 does.

The 1052 had an integrated breather that's slightly lower than the removable one on the 1127 and blandit 1200s. At the end of the day, you're not getting any 1100/1200 valve cover off when the engine is fully mounted in a 750 frame. You can remove the valve cover if you undo all engine mounts except the bottom rear and tilt the engines forwards in the frame and slide the valve cover back. Also requires removing the carbs.

Yeah, you can use them like that. Others have used more modern CDIs with the 1052 pickups. It's not like Suzuki has ever been known to change out a perfectly good part if they don't have to.

Yeah, 1052s had twin pickup. I think they're the only ones out of the oil cooled. Not sure about the first gen 750s as I've never owned one. The rest of the oil cooled seems to really only depend on the plugs matching up to the CDI and being mindful of the rev limiter. I've got the factory manual for all the slingshot 750s at home that I can check for ignition timing sometime, but currently out of town dealing with family stuff.

Was strictly added for emissions. If it does fuck all on the bandit it's probably only at a certain small RPM range where they test the emissions at. Same as things like secondary air injection or carbon canisters, pull it all and toss it in the bin.

That's not a Katana head. GSX750F head. The US was the only place that got that name and it's an insult to proper Katanas.

Yup, just make sure to use an 1100 ECU.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever figured out how much power those shaft drives can take before they pop?

What are you working with? Powerscreen engine in a slingshot frame, is it a custom job, or a stock looking bike? Do you have an old busted harness currently? Do you have an ECU? Even a bodged up harness is better than no harness as you can reuse the connectors if they're still good. Best option of course is a powerscreen or slingshot harness with ecu. Avoid the 750 ECUs as the 1100s don't last that long with that high of a rev limiter. Bandit harness and ECU will work as well, but timing is slightly different from the GSXR stuff. Build the harness yourself, there's an old diagram on here that shows exactly what's needed for the engine to run, and then you simply add the separate circuits for the lights that you need. But it's time consuming and a pain in the ass to do. I've been procrastinating on finishing a bike for a couple years now for just this reason. You can buy an M-Unit, but it's mainly handling all the auxiliary stuff, they're expensive, and you'll still need the ECU and factory connectors to plug into ECU, signal generator, etc.

If it's running rich it's most likely the emulsion tubes are worn. You'll have to call them to order emulsion tubes, but they're a fraction of the price of a full kit. In the future, you can drop the needles a notch when it's running rich like that to verify if it's the tubes. It's only a band aid fix, but it'll help clear up the bogging in the mid range if that's the problem. Also, DJ needles are usually titanium.