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Posts posted by Upshotknothole

  1. Like everyone else has said, a little grease, a 2x4 or a pry bar of some type, and a lot of swearing. Every set of RS carbs I've owned has been a bitch to install compared to CV carbs.

    At this point with Suzuki discontinuing more and more of the stock rubbers and Mikuni RS or TMR carbs being the only aftermarket ones that you can still buy new, it would be really nice if someone would just make rubbers specifically for those carbs.

    • Like 1
  2. 18 hours ago, Losiu said:

    If there was even the beginning of the number, I wouldn't ask the question :) The number field is simply empty. A small hole for the starter suggests that it is not 1127. Some 750, or maybe 1052




    I’m gonna guess 749 GSXR engine based on the shape around the starter motor. I don’t have any 748 cases at home to compare, but it’s not an 1127. Most of the F and bandit engines were black or silver, so that eliminates 600s. Hope that helps. 

  3. 16 hours ago, Losiu said:

    Can you tell me what engine it is for? This is a new crankcase to buy for quite decent money.

    Unfortunately, the seller does not know the destination. It also has to water cooled (GSXR and RF).


    Maybe if you include the serial number and a photo of the other side. It's grey so probably a GSXR engine, but can't tell much beyond that.

  4. 7 minutes ago, rideordive2ss said:

    I found a stem mount one I liked  thanks all   it works very well 

    Post up a photo of it mounted, curious to see how it looks.

  5. I also measured up the forks, 50/54. The 1100s and Ws had different shaped bottoms as well on the upper stanchions where the seals sit. These are definitely oil cooled 750 forks, maybe 1100 internals? 

  6. 51 minutes ago, Duckndive said:

    Could be 1100 Stanchion  clip-on's on top of yoke "750 are under"  

    The markings on the fork lowers are for the 750 forks, unless the 1100s used the same lowers, but I don’t think they did. 

  7. So my GSXR750n(US) has a blown fork seal and I’ve been putting it off for ages to get it fixed. Someone stripped the left caliper bolts at one point, drilled and tapped the caliper for larger bolts, and drilled out the holes to fit. I’d been holding off until I could either swap the lower, the whole fork, or the whole front end as I have a nice set of PM calipers and rotors to put on it. Over the past week it’s started to finally really leak when parked, and today I was going to swap in a W fork just as a temporary fix while I get that seal replaced. Then I noticed this.


    The fork on the left is the stock fork, the one on the right is a 750W. They’re supposed to be the same length, 740mm. My stock forks are 762mm from the bottom of the caliper to the top of the cap, the W is about 740. Did anyone extend these forks for racing? I don’t know the history of the bike, but it came with some nice Yosh bits, including a Yosh top triple. The forks are also raised pretty high in the triples, but it always handled really well so I left them alone.


    If these forks have had a lot of work done to the internals, I’d like to keep them. Can I swap out the lower from a W to fix the drilled out caliper holes? They’ve got the same part number, other option would be bushings, but I’d rather not. I’ve got new seals and oil for the forks, but I hate working on suspension and would rather not attempt it myself. 

    I’m going to reassemble the bike today to get it off the stands, here’s the bike and the lower with the drilled out caliper holes.


    The last thing that I noticed was that the backs of the caliper mounts have been ground down, I’m guessing to fix different calipers in the past. I really wish I knew the history on this bike, but the guy I bought it off of had no idea about any of the mods. Here’s the other fork lower showing the ground down area for the caliper.



    Thanks for any information on these types of fork mods and what parts are interchangeable. 


  8. RS36s will be nice and streetable with an 1127. 38s move the power more to the top end, and 40s are all top end. Different riding style as others have said from standard CVs, but you'll get the hang of it, and they look and sound way nicer than stock carbs.

  9. They have barely any rubber, only where it mounts to the lower part of the frame below the engine and on the sides of the head. They didn't use push pins back then.



    Parts #4, #5, and #6/13 are the main things holding your fairings together. 3 on each side to hold the mid to the upper, and 3 more to hold the lower to the mid. Then rubber mounts for 7-10 and 14-19.


  10. Might be just enough of the clips, way more screws than you'll need. Check an online parts diagram for your GSXR and it'll show you all the hardware you'll need. That kit looks like half of it won't be needed and you might still need some more of the clips depending on what you already have, definitely not enough for a full fairing kit without any current hardware.

  11. I’ve got a US 92, same as your 91, and I’ve looked at mounting a small GPS unit and there’s really no room under the windscreen at all. I’m even running a double bubble. You could always mount it over the speedo. I just keep my phone in my pocket and pull over if I get too lost. Other option is some Bluetooth speakers in your helmet and listen to the GPS. 

  12. 12 minutes ago, baldrick said:

    joseph, did your mate get back to you?

    or anyone know where i could find a set please?


    You need the 1100M/N? I checked partzilla here in the states and they have the intake boots listed as available, but not in stock. They’re usually pretty good about pulling stuff when it’s no longer available. 



    • Like 2
  13. Suzuki has been discontinuing a lot of the old GSXR boots. Can’t find the BST38 intakes for the 750s anywhere in the states now. Hoping someone will start making aftermarket ones sooner than later, as I think all they’re making now are the bandit and gsxf intakes. 

    • Like 1
  14. The M frames had a big curved oil cooler. If you can get your hands on one of those, run it. Bigger than the 1100 or the bandit coolers, and it fits the M body work. Slabbie ones I’m pretty sure are smaller and will need custom mounts. 

    BST36 or BST38s. 

    750 air boxes should be the same, but never actually had one so can’t say for sure. The 750j and 750m were slightly different height engines, but there should be enough wiggle room for it to work. Though I believe the M frames were taller, probably just easier to run pods. 

    Stock 4 pot tokikos are fine. Any of the Suzuki brakes through the 90s should fit, but the 6 pots off the TLs and Busas can be a bitch to fully bleed and don’t really give you that much extra. 

  15. On 4/18/2023 at 12:50 PM, rideordive2ss said:

    Bst38ss mikuni carbs on a 91 750. While trying to reinstall the carbs I pressed and snapped the male end of this fitting into the hose. After searching all over I've found out that this hose is called the powerjet hose.
    Does anyone know where I can get a replacement fitting for this? Pic included. Also how do I remove this fitting? The first picture isnof the lower fitting that is a mirror of the upper.

    Depending on where in the world you are and how the carbs have been tuned, they very might well be blocked off with 0 jets in the float bowls. The fittings are known to break and I think you have to replace the whole float bowl. I’ve got one carb with a broken fitting on my 750 and it has the hose blocked off. They’re only there for fine tuning of the carbs in smaller increments when still running an air box. 

    • Like 1
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