Magoo
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Posts posted by Magoo
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Get some squishy foam filters and you should be OK.....though on a bandit, the carbs can foul the fuel tap. I'm not sure if this will be an issue on your bike (coz I don't think you told us what bike it is)
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You may not need to grind the alternator bit with the dot head on as this will raise the carbs by a noticeable amount.
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7 hours ago, Duckndive said:
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The wheels are from a mk2 bandit 1200 (though I don't think there's any difference between mk1 and mk2 wheels besides the spoke pattern)
The slingshot has a quite large spacer on the caliper side that covers the bearings whereas the bandit has a top hat spacer that fits inside the bearing seal (slingshot doesn't have a bearing seal). The difference between these spacers' widths appears to be the same as the difference in caliper hanger width on the spindle.
Bandit - narrow spacer & wide caliper hanger : Slingshot - wide spacer & narrow caliper hanger
I think my sprocket carrier is the stock gsxr one, though it was ages ago when I fitted it and I may be mistaken (as for the spacer inside the sprocket carrier, I have no clue which is in there but it fits well (It's either a B12 or a 1100L)
Disclaimer : My gsxr was a 26 years old bitsa when I got it and what I think was standard fit may not be. My swingarm is a metmachex but I'm assuming that the rear spindle width would be the same as a stock one
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I have bandit wheels in my 1100l. I used the bandit RHS spacer and the slingshot LHS spacer and the rear lines up nicely (sprocket bolts are very close to swingarm but not contacting.)
...with bandit caliper hanger
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I just wedged a load of bits of pipe insulation down between the lamp bowl and the rearmost plastic housing (4 on 'fiche)
It stopped the bowls rattling about and the lights are pointed forwards still. (My adjusters will just fall to bits if I try to move them.)
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Mk2 has pairs valve ports on the front of the block, and a threaded output shaft for the speedo sensor.
I can't think of any other differences (other than carb spacing but this is changed with inlet rubbers - the heads are the same)
*to the best of my limited knowledge
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My 1100L has dipped and main (and side) on both lamps.
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On 6/5/2020 at 9:53 AM, flatline said:
An early Covid-Christmas-Present.... I bought my first Yoshimura tuning part back in 1984, when I visited Dixon Racing in Godalming.... it was only a 'Yoshi' cloth patch to sew onto my leathers, but it seemed to work!!
Today I 'broke the piggy-bank' & splashed out on a set of Stage 2 cam's for for the Harris... I am basically building the 'bike that I dreamt of in my late teens... It may not be 'period-correct', but it is how I see it would have evolved in my ownership over the past couple of decades....
Still a long way to go, but each step is a step closer to the 'bike being finished
p.s. excellent comprehensive installation instructions in Japanese... anyone care to translate?
Use Google Translate on your phone and just wave your phone camera at it for realtime translations.
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It was the sidestand switch. Right on the money Wee Man.
Cheers, I owe you a beer.
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Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated.
Funny you should mention the sidestand switch. It's been pretty flakey for a while now. (Sometimes I have to kick the stand in hard for the bike to allow me to leave. (Was thinking to bend the tab on the stand out a bit to ensure switch depression....but I always forget when getting home)
Tomorrow I'll take it somewhere quiet so as not to irritate the neighbours and see if I can make >7krpm in neutral. (Will do a wiring check 1st)
Many thanks.
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Hi folks,
Having spent some time in Antarctica for work, and then getting home just in time for this poxy lockdown, my bike got it's 1st run out in months today.
It runs nicely up to just under 7k rpm, then pops a loud bang, rev counter reads at zero for a second (with total loss of power), then the bike continues running until Near 7k rpm when it does the same...every time.
I plan to have a look at my valve clearances tomorrow. Can you suggest any other constructive avenues of inquiry?
(1990 GSXR1100L)
Cheers,
Magoo.
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10 hours ago, SiBag said:
Liking the rear calliper hanger. Nice work.
Yes indeed. That looks mint.
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That all makes sense now. I hadn't considered adding extensions to the swingarm shock mounting. Cheers, mate.
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On 2/10/2020 at 9:11 AM, busa ash said:
Will see what I can do with pics later
Thanks mate, How have you attached the shock to the swingarm? I see your shock sits higher than the eye that you've welded to the arm.
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Any chance you could show a close up of your rear shock mount (swingarm end)?
I'm looking for inspiration as to swingarm options for my mag2
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My 1100L didn't have one when I got it, and I've never since thought that it required one.
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on stock sprockets, you shoud get 12 pulses per rear wheel revolution
45(rear)/15(front)X4(sensor)
It's possible that the sensor requires only 5v power....my Koso had a warning not to supply 12v to the sensor as a 12v pulse returning to the speedo may damage the meter.
(The meter has a 5v sensor supply wired from it.)
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Top man!
Many thanks for that.
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Hi folks,
Do you know if the front discs from later watercooled slingshots will fit my 1100l? (same diameter/offset etc?)
I seem to remember reading that they are the same but I'd like verification before I go buying some on eblag.
Cheers.
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Gen1 busa shock is suitable for the mk2 frame. I don't think its good for a mk1 as the lengths are different. (Can't remember if too short or long.)
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I can't get my filter out through my micron headers on my slingshot
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You can use an aftermarket speedo with the mk2 bandit speed sensor. I have my Koso like so on a mk2 1200. It's easy enough (and wheel sensors look ugly)
To calibrate it, just multiply your sprocket ratio by 4 pulses/wheel revolution (i.e. mine is 15/45 so 12 pulses/rev) (if you're using the bandit 4 way crennelated sensor nut/pickup thingy)
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Early Busa shocks are a nice fit if it's a mk2 Bandit
*dot*head question
in Oil Cooled
Posted
My apologies, I was well into my cups when I wrote that.