Duckndive
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Posts posted by Duckndive
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23 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Anyone know if there’s a kit for the Mk1 B6?
yes there used to be a few in the 600 class in straightliners had them ...
easiest way is chuck a 750 motor in it
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been asked so many times a search will show many answers
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17 hours ago, smirk said:
Getting my old dinosaur 81 gsx1100 back together.
It's got a dyna s fitted & I wanted to static check it's timing. There is only one set of timing marks on the advancer. 2&3 don't have a mark.
Is there a trick I need to know? Or do I have to fit a timing wheel to set it 180 degree fron the 1&4 marks?
Oh and the mk1 1200 bandit carbs I bought for it are pretty much beyond repair! I can't see the classifieds yet - so anyone got something for sale?
Ta muchness.
If there's no mark on the advancer then degree wheel is the way ...there not normally a zillion miles out though
or try and find an advancer with both marks when you hit 50 posts or on the bay of thieves
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Never had any cam chain issues when i,ve done them ...
always used slotted sprockets and leave tensioner out until are cam,s in and then dial them in
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5 hours ago, Arttu said:
But if you inject fuel before the turbo your fuel distribution between the cylinders is at mercy of the intake manifold design.
Some Do Some Don't
The Wizzer Blows the Engine Suck's i never had any issues using this
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9 hours ago, Arttu said:
EFI with injectors placed on the intake ports should solve most of the fueling issues with draw through setup. But you will still need a carbon sealed turbo...
Regarding original question, I think blow-through is technically better in almost every way. So only reason to select draw-through is that you specifically want it, for example because of style and look.
There's a couple of really sweet runners using a single throttle body and injector on Faceache
the videos may be on youtube
not sure if he's on OSS but Ade Rix did a real sweet one
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3 hours ago, gsx said:
Was fine before mate, think the sps fibres are too thick , going to chuck the old ones back in , even though they slipped are strangely 2.6 mm or a smidgen above .oh that piano wire that holds the first steel and gubbins , is it important as could not get it on new drum
Why could you not get it on ? something wrong there maybe
i,ve used trac king plates mixed with OEM plates without any problems
what's actually wrong with the stock plates ?
plates that slip normally measure thinner than others ..
That aside
according to Fowlers' & Alpha sports an 83 ESD only has one washer behind the clutch basket not two so is your hub sitting further out than it should be
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5 minutes ago, Mike711 said:
Does anyone know if a later gsxr 600/750/1000/1300 uses a 36mm switch with resistors? A Healtech GPI can work with them.
and to confuse even more a lot of the modern water boiled sports bikes use 26mm switches for gear position
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2 hours ago, clivegto said:
You need to do your own measurements on a dry build and calculations as every engine can be different.
What Clive Said .....
it's all down to doing the sums for the components your using
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4 hours ago, gsx said:
Now I've got me glasses back on what do we think to this ? Can't think that anything is there to make contact
Shim missing "or has been at some point"
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/5289523/gsx-1100-1980-1981-t-x-et-ex/clutch
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And just to throw a curveball in suzuki also use this one on an inazuma i think ...
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Now If you were a member on the Temp ProBoards site some years back and remember your log in details then these posts may help
I,ll let @Captain Chaos Decide if the links can stay or not
https://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/4539/b12-engine-efe-gear-indicator
https://old-skool-suzuki.proboards.com/thread/3514/gear-indicator-oil-cooled-engines
unfortunately the pics in the 2nd thread are missing but i recall he drilled a Neutral Switch and added the extra contacts and wires to make what he wanted
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18 minutes ago, wraith said:
MK1 b12
.
I put this in air cooled because I knew it was one of the air cooled engines that had the switch.
you need an EFE one then to avoid confusion ...but as Captain said you will need to juggle wires to make it work
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Whats the basket and inner hub like ?
If there are ridges where the plates sit then they won't help with clutch disengagement
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17 hours ago, Toecutter said:
I'm struggling to find a UK supplier of exhaust gaskets for the he221w, earlier type with 4 hole mounting. Plenty available in 5 hole. Anyone in the know?
Cheers,
T.
This place are not in UK but they sent me a turbo for a van in 3 days ...they list loads of gaskets
https://www.Eblag.co.uk/str/nerings
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1 hour ago, wraith said:
I was looking into this for two reasons.
1. My gsx1157et has gsx750es clocks and id like the gear indicator to work (yes I know sad
)
So what actual engine does your "GSX 1157et" actually have in it ? ..
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6 hours ago, Dezza said:
So earlier switch from GSX1100 is 26mm and fits B12? The switch on my EFE is the larger 36mm type. Like Wraith I used to think that all GSX1100 switches were the same but that does not seem to be so.
Is that a TYpo Dazza ?
All 4V air cooled GSX 1100 use a 36mm one and yes it fits in early B12 and Oil Cooled 1100 Case,s
using the GSX prefix can lead to confusion .......Eg a GSX 1100F . ...is not an Air Cooled bike it's a 1127 Oil Cooled one "Powerscreen"
so maybe best to use A models full description
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Check the starting position of the arm on the case
if it's at wrong angle before clutch is pulled in you can have a lot of wasted motion ..
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3 minutes ago, Pegleg said:
Can't understand why I don't have a boost reference. I assumed the spring controlled the boost as you can get different rated springs.
the pressure at the gate is not necessary actual boost pressure ...
hence you need a reference PSI signal from the plenum ..
and be very wary off a EG a 6 psi spring being a 6 psi spring ...its best to actual check the spring does lift at the stated PSI..
your gate may well be opening under boost "but the PSI" thats making it open may well be a lot higher than the spring,s rating....
Gets coat and goes back to the wake i,m at
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33 minutes ago, Dezza said:
I am interested in this because I have spare EFE gear indicator salvaged from some wrecked clocks (34 years ago
) that could go onto an oilcooled bike (26mm switch for gear indicator needed???).
Not all oil cooled use a 26mm switch ....
early slingshots and blandits use a 36mm switch as we used an EFE one for a Nos trigger
and to confuse even more a lot of the modern water boiled sports bikes use 26mm switches for gear position
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15 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Do both 26mm types fit all engines with a 26mm switch recess and likewise do both 36mm types fit all engines with a 36mm recess?
Yes the switch,s fit the hole...
But for it to work correctly the hole in gearbox shaft needs to be in the same position as the donor bike..
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36 minutes ago, wraith said:
Looking on the Alpha site, the 750 has the same one as the GS range and the 1100et is a different part number to the ef/efe 1100
1100ET only has a neutral light , EF/EFE has neutral light and gear position indicator
if you have an 1100ET with a gear indicator in the clocks it most likely has had 750ET clocks fitted at some point "they used to be very cheap 2nd hand"
1100ET clocks have a bike symbol check panel where as 750 ones have the gear indicator and there are small wiring differences
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15 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
I did, and it had the gear indicator, that's why I assumed an 1100 ET did also! Obvs not it seems!
Some 1100,s did
.....and off course the 1135 EFE did ....
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56 minutes ago, Pegleg said:
So boost doesn't lift the diaphragm against the spring in the waste gate?
A Boost reference signal does .... normally from the plenum via a 6mm pipe to underside of the diaphragm
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Oil weep from dowel pin
in Air Cooled
Posted
It's not difficult to drill the head and add a 6mm cap screw / bolt like the earlier engines had ..
Upperton often does it on EF heads