gray711

Glad you fixed it but come on ....

Hats off to you Yan, fantastic build

But in the meantime. Everything neatly under the tank

Keep us posted as the ZX10 nut is the route I thought I’d go after reading about it years ago somewhere .

I’ve got an 11 linkage on a 750 but admittedly am using the 11 arm too & 750 shock. Here’s some pics I found some time back of where you need to remove some meat from the 11 linkage to allow full movement. Don’t have any measurements! The 7 & 11 arms have a different bearing set up for the linkage too obviously

Aluslip & stainless bolts here

Assuming that you don’t know the history of the forks, it may be an idea to check they’ve been assembled correctly. I had this recently, albeit on a set of K6 forks. I figured out that the rebound adjuster screw height hadn’t been adjusted correctly as per the specs in the manual during assembly, resulting in nearly no travel in the rebound setting screw - just a thought

34981-38G01 is this the part you looking for??

Is it not possible to use a sprocket nut that incorporates the hall sensor? Sure I read somewhere many moons ago that an early zx10 item is usable - unsure if the castle protrusions would match up to the sprocket cover sensor though?.....Just a thought

I fashioned a gasket out of a bicycle inner tube for my pingel, works a treat ...

Parked in front of a ‘please drive carefully’ sign - priceless

Used one of them thin filters then Gnome

Hello again Brians7/12

Now that’s a beauty . Looking forward to seeing how it comes together.

Hi, the challenge will be the swinging arm linkage, unless you’re well handy. Best to press the slabby stem into the K8 yoke, will probably need building up with some weld at the base, top hat spacer in the top yoke to take up the slack (smaller diameter stem) - there is more detailed info out there if you look. I have a k5 front end on my slabby but it was years ago when it was done & I can’t remember the specifics!! Are you using the k8 forks & wheel?

Indeed

Ah I see, does the arm have bearings, where it attaches to the linkage?

If you’re doing it the other way round, 11 on a 7, you have to use the 11 linkage & modify it. So I would presume, if the same principles apply of course, it would be the same with a 7 on an 11 .... maybe?

Ok so I hate to ask but why are you considering doing this?

Something else to consider is that the bearing set up in the linkage & arms are also different between the 750 & 11. Have a look on the parts diagrams on something like Fowler’s or alphasports & you’ll see the differences.

Was it something like this you were after,

Here’s some info I’ve posted many times so hopefully it’ll help you Swinging arm pivot is the same on both (I've had both arms in my 750) @ 235mm with end caps. Linkage pivot is 45mm on both arms. 750 arm length centre to centre is @ 570mm (750G) My 11 arm is extended so can't give you a true measurement on that. I know you said linkages later but forgive me, I'm on a roll...the bearing set up is different on each linkage. The 11 has a bearing in the eccentric bit of the linkage as opposed to it being on the 'ears of the arm' on the 750. Trusty exploded diagrams will explain 750 arm 1100 arm 750 linkage 1100 linkage you can use an 11 linkage with an 11 arm in a 750 but will need to mod the linkage as described below as this will give it full travel instead of it fouling the frame.

Gsxr 600 K4 on mine

Never used a stepped yoke, front end sits lower but just turns in a bit quicker. Had these in for years. They’re from a GSXR 600 K4 - the radial brakes are the best upgrade ever - along with a Brembo Master cylinder.

I used 750 shock in mine as 11 too long.