stellafella

Got this which might help,downloaded some time ago, its the plates to put k1 rearsets on, but does have the centre to centre spacing , sizing is a little different to above

Hiya mate, I took the barrels and busa pistons to the engineers for bore and hone ,gave him busa, bandit and clearance and let him get on with it. Think it was 0.030

Thanks for the replys, spent some time reading members build threads, didnt come across anybody indicating they had issues , so I dropped the 1156 barrels off yesterday , picked them up this afternoon..

Ive heard that fella, thats why ive checked them on my spare 1127 engine for fit, the ones i have are early 1156 stamped barrels and fit fine Ive seen some discussion about fitting and not fitting bandit barrels in 1127 cases. After a discussion over the weekend I got to wondering if anybody had experienced any problems with the reduced thickness of the sleave after reboring , it was mentioned about the liners cracking , thought id asked before starting spending my cash.

Looking to take a set of barrels out to 1216 , I have both 1127 slingshot and a early bandit set which is 1156. Want to use the 1156 as my thinking is there is less to machine out to start with, which should leave me with thicker sleaves Have stripped my spare engine and checked the 1156 early bandit fit the cases , my concerns is the amount of sleave left after machining for the busa pistons. Has anybody had any problems with the barrels after a 1216 bore.? Going to use a td04 16t and hoping for 200-250 hp thanks in advance

Is commetic the only 1216 head gasket? Going to use a 1127 L lump bored out slowly collecting parts for a turbo build cheers

Straight fit for me, and 3mm ,put some little rubber washers either side of it

30 x 47 x 12 taper roller from marksman industrial mate

Looks like k1 k2 1000 forks mate

On a well known auction site £25, got one on my 11 Put in slabside headlight protector

Search function top right of screen mate, 750m on mine

1999 srad 750 forks & wheel

Ive used carl slater.com to download manuals mate, alphasports or a good suzuki website should give you an parts drawing of an srad front end.

I have a 1000 k8 forks on one of my bikes, always found the ride quite harsh, put different springs in and oil , still run settings on the soft side. Thought the forks were fucked so got another set and they are the same, Mind you the roads in Hampshire are shit. Have 600/750 k6 on my slingshot and they are much better.

I've used Allen's performance recently for new genuine mikuni needles, pretty good and cheap

Not so bad, hardest part was getting the top circlip out from under the cover without damaging it, used a small screwdriver and scribe and it popped out , and the little locating pins were tricky, very lucky that only one pin needed filling down for my key to work. Pushing the spring back and fitting the second bigger circlip was a bit tricky. Pic of the parts in order

Iam to tight for that, I'll give it a go and see what happens

Has anybody managed to take the filler cap apart to hopefully change/adjust the lock pins. my ignition and fuel cap have different keys, would like to have just 1 key to fit both.

The little o rings on the vacuum takeoffs under the lid and the little o rings behind the spring/ washer on the pilots are good ones to check, also the o rings behind the inlet boots.

They're the balance springs for tuning up you carbs, sync 1+2 together, with the adjustment screw, then 3+4 together with that adjustment screw. Then match your two sets of sync carbs with the middle adjustment screw, they all need springs above and below the plate

Yes mate

The DJ's I took out were the same thread as the mikuni jets that replaced them

this is what I had, I decided to take the DJ kit out and replace it with standard jets/ needles on my 36mm mikuni for a slingshot 1100