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  1. Today
  2. I'll start by saying I have no knowledge of piston design but when I saw your idea to modify the crown of the pistons I immediately thought of diesel pistons I have seen that shape (ish) maybe this helps maybe not but it is an area to research as regard crown shape an squish perhaps.....
  3. Got the MTC 81mm 10:1 pistons. They are much beefier around the wristpin area. They are now boring and honing the cylinder block. Before I mentiioned I want the CR to be 8:1 - 8.5:1. Reading a bit more in various places I think its a bit too low for a road bike. 9:1 should give faster spoolup and better low end while it should enable 15psi on 98 octane resulting in around 270hp. (input welcome) Played in CAD with the pistons to see what could be done to lower the CR while maintaining squish. Around 4cc should be cut from the piston to achieve 9:1. Thing is, in the middle of the piston is a relatively thin area of 5mm which I think I should leave alone. A bit surprised that turbo/nitrous pistons have a thin area in the middle. Maybe because they mainly make high compression pistons from this casting? The rest of the piston is 9mm so I could reduce that by milling out a ring 1.5mm deep. Of course I'm first going to verify deck height and actual compression volume before ruining new pistons Does that make sense, or does that f@ck up combustion in such way that it would be better to add a spacerplate and accept the larger squish? unmodified MTC 81mm Unmodified MTC 81mm Bottom of MTC piston Modified MTC Modified 81mm MTC Modified 81mm MTC thickness check
  4. The Canadian company is NRC , I think.
  5. Of course they have a VIN! It may not be the 'modern' 17 character one - because they were from an era when it wasn't required! The letters and numbers on the headstock are the chassis number - that is what the vehicle registration uses for VIN.
  6. GS 1000s don't have VINs, they have serial numbers Pogster, post up a picture or two for better identification
  7. Zman, That is correct. Replace that part and keep on building Here's a tutorial for the VM carbs gsarechive.bwringer.com
  8. Yesterday
  9. I know it's almost a month late but i can measure mine tommorow
  10. I think it might be this part.
  11. Also I just went back and looked and the part called an emulsion tube is the one with the holes in the side that the jet screws into, right? That is a separate part from the part that sticks up and it's undamaged.
  12. I could be wrong but looking at it it appears that it presses in from the bottom, I. E. The part sticking into the barrel is smaller diameter than the part where the jet screws in. So if it does press out I think it has to come out the bottom and I'm worried about damaging the barrel by tapping the top of the emulsion tube(? Didn't know the name of it)
  13. I checked the factory Manual, its 1-2-4-3 , thats got to be why this dual exhaust header thing is the way it is. Nobody on the facebook group could figure out what it is either, maybe after I scrape the paint off I"ll find a manufacture logo!
  14. Can you not get a new set of emulsion tubes for it. There's some pretty extensive rebuild kits available that are of good quality. You can then just tap out the tube from the bottom with the main jet screwed in slightly so as not to damage the carb, once it's moved a little just tap the rest out with a punch.
  15. Sounds like the wastegate is opening already at 10psi and then there is boost creep at higher rpm. A boost controller should help building boost faster. It will help to keep the gate closed until you hit the target. But it can't help with the creep, if the gate can't flow enough to keep the boost down then the controller can't do anything to lower the boost. Any way, if you feel that the turbo is spooling up slower than it should it's good to check carefully all possible exhaust and boost leaks. Especially exhaust leaks will affect a lot on spool-up.
  16. Rebuilding the carbs on my gs1000l. Got I bought it from paid some guy $300 to "clean" the carbs. Well long story short I'm realizing the reason it had a 1-3 misfire was not the points or condensers but the fact that half the jets are clogged as well as the enrichment circuit fuel orifice, I've only done #1 so far but I'm guessing it's the same problem in # 3, and probably mild clogging in #4 as #2 is the hottest header upon starting and trying to warm it up. Anyways, I also figured out why the throttle sticks wide open, which is because there was some damage to #1 slide, a small protrusion that caught on the cylinder edge. Also damage to the bushing that the needle valve goes into. Looks like maybe someone dropped the throttle with a screwdriver in the carb or something. My question though, is that little bit of damage to that "sleeve" if you will going to cause atomization issues with the needle jet? The part that screws in from the bottom (not sure what you call that) is undamaged and the actual "bore" of that sleeve where the needle touches it is undamaged, it's just that little ring that sticks up into the barrel. I pulled off all the loose metal but can't do anything else with it aside from pressing in a new sleeve or a new carb body. span widget
  17. If you ever use a boost controler, use one with a ball and spring. These build up boost way faster. Bleed valves just bleed/leak, this takes longer to actuate the waste gate. Ball spring controllers you recognise on nipples on the bottom, and one 90 degrees on the side
  18. Interesting... The more revs, the more power, but it never gets really exciting.. With the TD04 it starting to lift the front wheel in 4th gear at 110km/h, now it needs to do 160km/h before it does lift the front wheel, just to give an idea. It looks like there's a boost leak, but there isn't, I think..
  19. I'm going blow through on this one.
  20. GSX 1400 and GSXR/bandit seem to have identical dimensions at the exhaust port (42 ID 58 spacing) at least on what i've compared in my garage
  21. Last week
  22. Assuming draw-through ? Do you actually want 90s? 2 of the 4 cylinders need to go into the front part of the collector- this means the need a little less than 90degrees? see pics for reference:
  23. Same turbo and does similar. Mine starts boost about 3500rpm, stays at about 10psi for ages but doesn't hit 1 bar until 8-9k. (14psi spring and I do get boost creep sometimes). I'm sure it used to build boost a lot quicker but I'm questioning that. To those that know, would a softer, say 6psi spring and a digital boost controller alter that characteristic letting the controller cap the limit higher, i.e 15psi etc?
  24. Pipe layout very similar to truls build in the forced induction section as so expertly demonstrated.
  25. I've made a start, main holdup is the flanges at the mo. Using 1.5 mm wall 304 stainless tube 38mm dia due to space restrictions at the turbo flange. Pre bent 90 tubes to get everything in the right place where needed. I will put up pics when some substantial progress has been made...
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