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I disconnected the hose to the calliper on one of my bikes and took the top part off, then made a plate to tidy it up, if you take the top off the antidive their is no fluid just a little plunger thing, but the plate just tidy's it up. zoom in on this pic. or click to get a clearer view.

Cheers, I'll have a look at them when I pop them apart and go from there. I would like to keep the anti dives if possible, although they aren't that great...but that is mainly for the look etc.

she's already mentioned it Toni

Aye, well. Don’t let your lass hear you … or you’ll end up in a home!

I forgot to say, I might fit a B12 wheel AND the B12 swinger I really am loosing it

B12 tyre hits the gusset at the front of the arm, Tony. I’ll post some pictures, if I can find them.

Ron Williams / Maxton did mine. They were solid with no oil ways and blanked and locked up the forks solid. The clever bit was drilling the rod inside the forks, the size and position of the hole etc. Worked fine.

my current GS project has a GSX1100 swinger in it, ive got a B6 wheel in it atm with a 160 tyre on it, if i push the wheel all the way forward the tyre rubs on the swinger but half way down the slots it clears. im happy to use the B6 wheel as it makes chain line up a lot easier, but i might fit a B12 and wheel i have at a later date ???

I did the same thing on the Katzuma, but i didn't use a cone filter i just covered the hole with wire mesh and cut some air filter sheet over the top. had no room for a cone filter as the battery was in the way

Has anyone any info/links to a supplier of antidive blanking plates in the uk? There's some nice machined items that resemble the original units with both passages to allow correct oil flow available from a company in canada, but unfortunately don't dispatch to the uk. Ideally would like to rebuild my stock units as leaking now but to be fair they are pretty shite when they were functioning correctly before leakage. Any info greatly appreciated. Cheers, T.

5.5 or 6 inch K rim will both fit the same, they both have that largely offset to the left rim center which is a bit of a job to sort out in an OSS but perfectly possible. 6 inch rim = more risk of chain to tyre contact though, so stick to a 5.5 600/750 rim like mentioned previously

That is very similar to what was done on that xj650 ! Except he used one like this

180 is the biggest but still very close to the frame at swingarm pivot area. 3/8" offset sprocket in 530 chain and machined rear sprocket carrier to get chain run correct. Chain to tyre clearance can get a bit chaffy. I run a 170 Rear in mine to help with tyre munching issue I had with mine with the 180. Going to notch the frame out in my other project. Could run a 520 chain of good quality. Sprocket cover may need the web's whittling down a little to allow for offset front sprocket. Manufacturer tyre sizes don't always measure true 180 between brands so also worth bearing in mind...

Ok so I know its a much worn question but cant seem to get my search right ? Widest rear tyre (17" swap) can go into a standard 83 gsx1100 swingarm and frame THANKS Folks

if this helps im using a standard airbox on my GS1000 project and using B6 carbs, the airbox is a 2 piece affair but not using the rear section, so gona use a pod filter that i can tune the air flow. all trial and error !!!!!

Not sure I have enough room but my old bandit 600 run fine on pods, I remember just upjetting it but not sure by how much, I will try your idea with the airbox rubbers, filters and probably a jet kit. Cheers for your help

Hi new member here. I have a 1982 Suzuki GS750t I picked up and have been going through. It has a rebuilt top end, bored over 1mm with NOS pistons and rings. Dynojet carb kit with k&n pods, dynatech ignition, and it has the stock exhaust. The carbs are balanced and idles around 1100 but sometimes I have trouble starting it after I ride somewhere and let it cool down. I am unsure what it is. Should I put a 4 into 1 on it and rejet the carbs? The h pipe on the stock exhaust does have some pinholes so I plan to replace it unsure if I should go 4 into 1 or a cleaner stock pipe. Thank you hope to get some help with this problem I am having.

That's good to hear. Oddly the cams that cam out of the engine had slotted sprockets but were so far off I went back to stock. Maybe some winter I'll put them back in.

Though the wheel was the only way.. then mark Rotor at 180 from the proper marks. I don't have one- but a bit of Google shows free printable ones for a standard cd. Think I'm doing that at work 2moro

If there's no mark on the advancer then degree wheel is the way ...there not normally a zillion miles out though or try and find an advancer with both marks when you hit 50 posts or on the bay of thieves

Never had any cam chain issues when i,ve done them ... always used slotted sprockets and leave tensioner out until are cam,s in and then dial them in

Most people fit DOT heads to Bandit 1157s (with their different cam chain setup, with hyvo chain and no idler). It may be that the DOT head's got a slightly different geometry, and maybe the Bandits are more forgiving and the difference doesn't get noticed when fitting them to Bandits. Just a guess.

No mine was a 1200 with twin k&N ovals and a st3 Dyno jet kit,never put it on a Dyno . I don't know why the 600s seem so sensitive to pods wether it is the smaller amount of airflow creates a weaker vacuum as it passes over the jets I'm not really sure tbh . On a different note a guy I knew years ago built a chop based on an xj650 single top tube dropped seat rail type frame and modified the air box so that he used the front section then fitted a plate over the hole where the rear section was removed and to that plate fitted old Brit bike style round air filter would something like that work on your build ?

In the Mikuni RS manual it lists RS34s as suitable for several 600 engines e.g. Yamaha FZR600.

Hi Daz, I use the 600s in my bikes as I ride choppers, there plenty fast enough for me and very predictable, I used a fazer 600 in my last build which incorporated an airbox and it runs perfectly, the bandit dose not have room for an airbox so I need to use either flat slides or filters. I read your last answer about the airbox rubbers and sock filters. I now realise the RS carbs are now only really available for the bigger engines so will try your idea. So when you used the airbox rubbers and filter socks did you fit a dyno jet kit then take it to be set up on a dyno?