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Slotting the timing plate?


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  • 2 weeks later...

If you want to advance the ignition timing you need to turn the plate anti - clockwise, then the pick-up/sensor meets the crank earlier - so is advanced compared to crank position. It's all relative to crank position. If you move the mounting plate clockwise the crank will rotate further before meeting the pick-up, so ignition will be retarded (compared to crank position). It's easy to think that moving clockwise is moving it forward, so advancing timing - but if you just consider it's all relative to crank position it all makes sense.

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Two things i've learned in slotting this shape timing plate is:

1. The top left hole has to be cut away, it doesn't fit the obvious turn on the slot of the other 2 points. Once cut away, a 5mm washer holds it in place.

2. Next, the Op sender sits at the bottom of the plate, & once turned/advanced, the sender will not fit anymore. So you have to file a channel in it at the turn point.

 

Pics explain it better, first is std. Second is cut out & filed channel, third is fitted ;) 

37230978_10156211364690733_601835114145513472_n.jpg

37902266_10156237753190733_4848263339760943104_n.jpg

37936649_10156237769140733_8919647463103528960_n.jpg

Edited by CockneyRick
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On ‎7‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 9:34 PM, Oilyspanner said:

If you want to advance the ignition timing you need to turn the plate anti - clockwise, then the pick-up/sensor meets the crank earlier - so is advanced compared to crank position. It's all relative to crank position. If you move the mounting plate clockwise the crank will rotate further before meeting the pick-up, so ignition will be retarded (compared to crank position). It's easy to think that moving clockwise is moving it forward, so advancing timing - but if you just consider it's all relative to crank position it all makes sense.

Of course - I really should have thought about it before I posted :$.  Thank you for the explanation though....

I do have a new question that might not be as stooped - off to start a new thread.....

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21 hours ago, CockneyRick said:

That actually looks shorter at the bottom, so no need to cut away.  Look at LH bottom cover hole on yours & mine to where the plate is ;) 

Not much you can do to the OP switch other that file off all the castle points!

I thought that at first - but its the black cable sleeve that makes it look thin....... look either side, it's a wide as yours is. 

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Did some testing years and years ago and found 1 degree extra advance was all what was needed but again no 2 engines are the same depends on whole set up.

That's beauty of full programmable ignitions if you have a rich spot you can advance ignition just at that spot to try increase burn at that point.

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