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Project; Whizzy Pop Slingshot


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The Triumph alternator is a bit heavier than stock, plus the weight of the adaptor. The weight gain was justified by being able to idle the engine without loosing charge. Plus, the stock alternator has poor cooling to the regulator, so that if you spend a lot of time at low rpm the regulator overheats and blows. The Triumph alternator has a huge heat sink on the regulator and a better cooling fan. Pulling 24 amps on a 28 amp alternator only works if you are at full rpm all the time.

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  • 9 months later...

Been on the dyno today getting a base figure before I play with cam timing a little.

 

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Pretty much the same as it was on Dans dyno.

 

Lost 2 header bolts again so I'm going to try and find some stainless locking tabs and use hex bolts.

Going to alter the intake cam a degree or 2 and see if it helps, either more power or smoother running at lower rpm.

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Dragged it down the shed this afternoon, fitted some split washers on the headers for now.

 

Checked the cam timing and exhaust was spot on at 110 degrees, the intake was at 105 degrees though.

 

I double checked everything and got the same results so I must have set it wrong last time. I remember going around in circles last time so I obviously confused myself!

 

Left the exhaust cam alone and set the intake to 110 degrees, will get it on the dyno again and see how it goes. 

Needs a run out tomorrow first though.

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  • 6 months later...

Bit of an update as its been a while.

 

I dropped it round the dyno place and left it there for him to play with, his dyno broke though and he's not been able to get it fixed all summer.

I've been mega busy with work so not really had time to do much on bikes anyway.

 

Picked it up the other week and started going through it reminding myself what needed doing.

I'm sure that using rpm/tps isn't the way to go, its fine it you accelerate from a low rpm but if you ease off/drop down a gear then accelerate it runs massively rich until the turbo picks up.

 

I've read through the ecu manual and changed it to rpm/map. Its running on that now so I need to get it mapped. It will auto map for the finer tuning but I need a dyno to get it close.

 

Also need to get a new boost gauge, will get a glycerin filled one rather than the electric one.

Need to get the alternator looked at as well, will send it off in the new year.

 

And finally, nearly threw out the old ecu, thought I'd see if it worked first though as I've had my doubts if it was actually broken.

 

Took me a couple of hours to download the software, firmware for the ecu and find the right driver for the usb-r323 adaptor but it did show up on tunerstudio.

Bit of a google to remind myself how to set the ecu type and it works!

 

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The new ecu is better but its annoying that I probably didn't need it changed, it wasn't cheap and it didn't even run right when it came back with it anyway!

 

Looking at building a dyno, there's not that much to it and its frustrating relying on other people. Some of which just make things worse.

We're also moving house and I don't think they'll be any dyno places close.

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10 hours ago, Danm54 said:

I'm sure that using rpm/tps isn't the way to go, its fine it you accelerate from a low rpm but if you ease off/drop down a gear then accelerate it runs massively rich until the turbo picks up.

 

I've read through the ecu manual and changed it to rpm/map. Its running on that now so I need to get it mapped. It will auto map for the finer tuning but I need a dyno to get it close.

RPM/TPS map should work if there's also some MAP compensation. Without MAP compensation it won't work on boosted engine. RPM/MAP may work as well on your engine since you have only single throttle butterfly. With individual throttle bodies it usually won't work well.

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14 hours ago, Leblowski said:

Not very promising but you wil get this sorted !!

You really don’t need a dyno to get your bike running right, i did all my tuning on the streets laptop in my backpack.

Once you get this sorted you shall see al the trouble was worthied

How close was your fuel map before you went out on the streets?

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On 12/26/2018 at 10:39 AM, Danm54 said:

Looking at building a dyno, there's not that much to it and its frustrating relying on other people. Some of which just make things worse.

If you want details,i've plans for a plain inertia type dyno although wouldn't recommend it for mapping as the load cannot be controlled sufficiently. PM me an email address if you would like the files - can't vouch for the operation, it's a pretty old design!

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8 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

If you want details,i've plans for a plain inertia type dyno although wouldn't recommend it for mapping as the load cannot be controlled sufficiently. PM me an email address if you would like the files - can't vouch for the operation, it's a pretty old design!

PM on its way.

Was hoping inertia type would be good enough to get a rough map sorted before taking it out.

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9 hours ago, Danm54 said:

PM on its way.

Was hoping inertia type would be good enough to get a rough map sorted before taking it out.

The stuff came from John Williamson aka 'Dynoman' way back in the late 80's, early 90's - he's says its ok for 'high power' bikes but the way mine used to spin up on a load braked dyno i'm not so sure. What ecu control are you using?

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16 hours ago, Danm54 said:

Was hoping inertia type would be good enough to get a rough map sorted before taking it out.

I haven't had any real problems with mapping on inertia dynos. It helps if the roller is quite heavy so the pulls don't get too short on high power. And some proper brake is nice too as you will be braking down the roller quite often.

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9 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

The stuff came from John Williamson aka 'Dynoman' way back in the late 80's, early 90's - he's says its ok for 'high power' bikes but the way mine used to spin up on a load braked dyno i'm not so sure. What ecu control are you using?

 

Using a Specialist Components Typhoon 2 ecu. It's a pretty good ecu to be fair, seems to cover every option and more.

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2 hours ago, Arttu said:

I haven't had any real problems with mapping on inertia dynos. It helps if the roller is quite heavy so the pulls don't get too short on high power. And some proper brake is nice too as you will be braking down the roller quite often.

 

From what I've read, the heavier the drum the better for bigger bikes.

 

Got some spare landy discs and calipers lying about so will look at mounting one of those on it too.

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  • 3 months later...

Dragged this out the garage and loaded the old map on it, still need to sort the boost gauge out but it's now got an mot.

 

Think it's running a little rich on idle and sooting up so I've dropped a bit of fuel on idle and started to set the idle control up. Sounds nicer and idles smoother.

 

Will keep tweaking the idle/cold start tune until it starts without throttle from cold.

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With my 1 cold start a day I've managed to get it to start, warm up, and restart from hot with no throttle.

 

It likes the ignition timing about 17 degrees when its cold, dropping to 12 once the coolant is at 40 degrees. Fuel enrichment has stayed the same.

 

Not quite as easy as setting a simple warm up ignition map. Under idle control there are 2 tables that control the ignition timing, one is coolant based and the other rpm.

They don't quite allow the engine to reach the target rpm so I need to dig a little deeper but it's a positive step.

 

Cranking timing was 0 degrees so played with that a little and it's happy at 16 from every temperature I've tried.

 

Need to ride it now to see if it's cured it's habit to cut out when it comes to a stop.

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Had a ride out to Caffeine & Machine on Sunday, was their Built Not Bought weekend so fitted in nicely.

Rides great and forgot how good the boost is!

 

Noticed a slight ticking from the top/front of the engine a few miles from home, sounds a bit like a loose header again as it was hardly noticeable but needs checking out.

Hopefully nothing too serious.

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