Starter Motor upgrade for GS1000 bored to 11

[BurtyNoodles]

Hi! Can anyone recommend a GS/GSX 1100 starter motor with the right mountings as an alternative for a GS1000E. Its been bored to 11 and its killing standard GS1000 S Motors.  Ive been told I need to find a 4 brush one to turn it over easier as work thats been done has upped the compression! Im hoping theres a four brush model motor with identical mounting spec to the gs1000 Help! Cheers

 

 

 

[nlovien]

as a stop gap - and a good practise for any higher comp engine - use a different starting technique - you may have to tweak the wiring to achieve it - dunno ref: GS

kill switch on i.e. no igntion

spin motor without spark - as it's spinning flick  the kill switch off to give you sparks

also take the opportunity to clean the main power feed - battery to solenoid to motor and the main motor earth = get as much juice to the motor versus resistance

[Cheeky4648]

My motor is 1170 with cams and 11-1 comp and the stock starter works fine.  Get a starter rebuild kit and replace all cables with thicker gauge wire. Make shure your engine ground is good too. All will help.  @nlovien is good advice as well. 

[wraith]

First, hi and welcome to OSS 

(a bit of a introduced always works on here when you first join and start asking questions )

As to your starter problem, I had and have big bore GS1000, one of which had high comp pistions Anderson's S3 race cams etc etc etc standard starter motor worked fine, as people above say is good info and a very good battery, as it won't take much of a low battery to make things sluggish.

Some of the cheep battery's even form new have not got the power to do the job.  you can get battery's that have some more start up Amp's that help. 

 

[Fjbj40]

My 1000 is a 1085 10.5:1 comp ratio and I experienced a lot of starter kickback. I did this and it works fantastic http://www.theflyingbanana.com/starterclutch.htm , ignition retard is the answer IMOP.

[nlovien]

that is well neat  - recon thats the bodge of the month - bet yi  the originator was brought up on a diet of seriously old stuff - in days of old when a manual ignition retard was std service

[coombehouse]

This might be useful. I think the same info regarding the mitsuba starter & the timing weights applies to the gs1000 also. The mitsuba starter was also fitted to gs550 to 1000 over the years & has field coils rather than a permanent magnet

http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/313-slow-cranking-1170et/

 

[Screwriverracing]

Or as I have done  on my 13 to 1 bike, run two batteries with 24 volts to the starter( batteries connected is series with 12 volt of one and 24 v off both)turns over real quick and fires up without spinning the rotor.

Cheers SRR

[coombehouse]

Bit more information. This is the mitsuba starter. Bolts on the outside & cross head screws in the outside casing.

https://rover.Eblag.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.Eblag.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F282556600194

[Gammaboy]

6 hours ago, nlovien said:

as a stop gap - and a good practise for any higher comp engine - use a different starting technique - you may have to tweak the wiring to achieve it - dunno ref: GS

kill switch on i.e. no igntion

spin motor without spark - as it's spinning flick  the kill switch off to give you sparks

A better option is to just modify the ignition bob weights to reduce initial advance. Grind the standoffs flush, set advance by the max advance with the bike running. This also has the side effect of slightly moving the point at which max advance comes in, which reduces the likelihood of pinging sub 3,000rpm. I did it to my Kat, 1170cc and lots of compression, made a huge difference to starting.

Edited November 29, 2017 by Gammaboy

[CockneyRick]

I guess i'm fucked with a Dyna-S then!

[Gixer1460]

10 hours ago, CockneyRick said:

I guess i'm fucked with a Dyna-S then!

Why? A Dyna 'S' is designed to be used with a ATU. If its on an EFE engine without one, then THATS a really bad choice! That manual timing adjustment gizmo was originally designed for ProStock engines with stupid high CR's - knock the timing back to near TDC and it'll work good

[CockneyRick]

It's on a Bigbored GS1000, but i did it that long ago i can't remember wot i did when fitting it pmsl!

[Fjbj40]

The manual ignition retard may be oldskool, it may not be fancy enough for some of you here, but it is free and that's good enough for me!

I tried the mod where the starter motors over the engine and ignition is off, then energize the kill button but still got kickback. A partial contributor to the kickback is probably the 8 cell ballistic lithium battery, it's not quite enough kick but for this bike it's all about the fit. The retard lever ended all kickback.

Edited December 1, 2017 by Fjbj40

[Fjbj40]

5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

Why? A Dyna 'S' is designed to be used with a ATU. If its on an EFE engine without one, then THATS a really bad choice! That manual timing adjustment gizmo was originally designed for ProStock engines with stupid high CR's - knock the timing back to near TDC and it'll work good

Is an ATU "automatic timing unit"?

[Gixer1460]

7 hours ago, Fjbj40 said:

Is an ATU "automatic timing unit"?

Clever boy - gold star.

[gs7_11]

On ‎29‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 5:28 PM, Cheeky4648 said:

My motor is 1170 with cams and 11-1 comp and the stock starter works fine.

 

On ‎29‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 6:33 PM, wraith said:

 

As to your starter problem, I had and have big bore GS1000, one of which had high comp pistions Anderson's S3 race cams etc etc etc standard starter motor worked fine, as people above say is good info and a very good battery, as it won't take much of a low battery to make things sluggish.

 

+3

Never had a problem with mine over decades.

However, you must have a good battery/electrics.

[CockneyRick]

Mine's been doing it for while. New rebuild kit, Motobatt & updated wiring. So not as uncommon as is suggested!