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dougw

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  1. A progressive spring will soak up smaller irregularities better than a linear spring , but pass on more of the impact on larger irregularities . Ideal situation is the correct linear spring rate and damping to match, BUT a progressive spring will work better than the wrong rate linear, and may be a better compromise if you ride with different loads, ie two up , luggage, ate a load of pies..
  2. 1100K forks have cartridges as standard. I have some Maxton fettled forks in my 11K , but they where done to race spec for the young me and are a bit harsh. On my "to do list" is to see if I can fit the cartridges from a set of Showa 750J forks into the Kayaba 1100K forks. Forks rarely get the attention they need to keep them working well, but a good clean , new bushes and oil goes a long way (bushes usually well past there best after 10,000 miles, any speckling in the grey ptfe coating causes extra friction and harsher action). If you can manage it take one of Reactive Suspensions courses and rebuild your own forks while there, Gareth is a top bloke and will have all the bits for the rebuild ready on the course if you let him know. Did the forks on my TL1000 with him, noticeably different (better) afterwards, and learnt loads in the process.
  3. Does it fire on any cylinder , or at all, or backfire ? Remote diagnosis is not easy ! if it’s not firing at all then unless both coils have failed it’s something that’s common to both coils , eg cdi or pick up. Always worth trying some new plugs, they can spark when out of the cylinder and still not fire when in place. Don’t know if you can get “easy start” spray anymore , a blast of that would rule out fuel not right if it fired up briefly with that. As you have mentioned , check earths and all connections thoroughly. Good luck !
  4. Sounds like regulator is not behaving, maybe rectifier as well. As the alternator is a car type unit a good Auto Electrical repair place should be able to help, I very much doubt Suzuki use a bike specific part. I blew up the regulator on a slabby many years ago connecting the battery up wrong way round (my usual fuckwitted rush with a battery from breakers with terminals opposite way round) and fixed it myself, but unfortunately there are some gaps in my memory about how this was achieved in 1991...
  5. I`ve owned an R since 1999, bought new. Ran it in , crashed it, put it in track trim, raced it a bit, put it back into road trim, I like it. Ohlins rear fitted after the back tyre fell to bits after 10 laps of Mallory, doesn't overwork tyre now. Power commander , pipercross air filter with air box modded and cans, not quite as quick in a straight line as a race kitted SP1 I got to play with. Electrics are crap, I`m an Engineer and didn't believe the posts on how bad the electrics are until I had battery charging problems and measured the volt drops round the loom. Electrex World regulator and some rewiring with decent gauge cable and no problems since . Its not really a sports bike imho though, they never really where unless you put them on a drastic diet.
  6. I`m currently running a full Micron system on the 11K, but one of the four into two section pipes has a large dent in it so needs repairing. Another option would be to use the GSXR 1000 K1 headers ? I know they are reputed to "Fit" , but has anyone fitted them and can say how much work was involved ? ( I have limited shed time and want the bike running for 2018 !) If it involves major surgery and welding I`m unlikely to ever get round to it, if its a bit of tweak here and there and making a few brackets then that would be an option for me. I`ve got a selection of end cans up in the loft so probably have something suitable if the Micron one isn't.
  7. According to Practical Sportsbikes magazine these dampers cant be rebuilt. I got a sarky email back from them after saying I had no problem rebuilding mine with new seals and using hydraulic oil, apparently that wouldn't be within the ability of the average magazine reader ... Replacement seals worked fine for the couple of years it was used before it got replaced by an adjustable one. It`s been in a drawer since about 95 but I was rooting around a few weeks ago and found it, action still feels good with no leaks, but that may change if it was actually used on the bike.
  8. I can't really see how subjecting a coil to more vibration and heat , like on a pencil coil,can give less problems. They will work fine when new, but imho have been developed more with cost in mind than performance or life. The fact that they usually have a lower primary resistance shows they have less windings...
  9. Well I've had a set of 40mm 1100m carbs fitted to the 11K since the early 90s. I've got a set of 40mm and 38mm carbs from water cooled motors both have identical spacing and same OD. Pulled the 40mm M carbs of today and the water cooled carbs are WIDER spaced on the two outer , centre two carbs same spacing. Water cooled carbs outer two carbs are about 3mm further out. Castings for where the carbs connect are wider . Could probably sort out connection to head, but as I want to keep stock air box I need to get the spacing the same. Or give up and keep the M 40s on.
  10. Finally got chance to look at the TL this afternoon RHS fairing off, mechanics stethoscope at the ready to pin point rattle, got it nice and hot , NO RATTLE ??? Drained the oil, bugger all swarf on drain plug , all looks like it should after 2000 miles. So, could it have been the cam chain tensioner sticking, now deciding to do its job ? Oil and filter changed, run up and no noise. Stethoscope shows front cylinder is a bit noisier than rear, but not worryingly so. Just sorned it and off to play in the mud on the KTM till spring, so I`ll see what happens then.
  11. Thinking about it , you only get the noise on the over run after blipping, or when it stumbles slightly at tickover, so this points at a loose camchain(s) ?
  12. It doesn't do anything untoward at steady revs, only when blipping the throttle. It has made the odd similar rattle/crunch when its very hot and stumbled at tickover. You can feel the vibration through the frame when it makes the noise, its harsh I`m sat here with the manual, going to take out the cam chain tensioners out and inspect/clean them next.
  13. My TL has done 12000KM from new, but has done a few race meetings and trackdays , I`d guess about half of those KM`s have been quite hard. As you can tell by the KMs it has spent a lot of time laid up due to work/family commitments. Its been making a light ticking noise for a while , but nothing that sounded too bad. I was about to tuck it up for the winter with fresh oil and filter, and warming it up prior to this It started making a horrible crunching/rattle intermittently when blipping the throttle. It seemed to do it more leaning on the side stand then when upright or leaned to the right. Runs fine apart from that. I`m thinking cam chain tensioner or scissor gear problems ? Any help appreciated !
  14. Thanks for the replies, I`ll be keeping the 40`s in case I ever get round to upping the CC, hoping the Eblag "Good Condition" carbs are as described !
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