colinworth79

I'm leaning towards they are gen carrillo after all as thr rod bolts are stamped CARR and number etched on the side . I'm fairly sure the ones I purchased new had a A stamped on them . Might end up taking the clutch cover of my bandit motor to look at the gen rods .

Rods bolts have CARR SPS 77

I've got some H bean rods I'm looking to sell but I can't see any identifications . They look very much like the carrillo rods I have fitted in my bandit motor but haven't anything on the side .

Stock calipers aren't the best out there. Upgrade to r1 or the later gsxr mono blocks .

K5 is 207mm I have one sat here . Think there all the same up to k8 just the offset changes .

As gixer1460 said above oil contaminated cases are tricky to weld . Personlly i would clean all the paint off around the area then die grind into the crack . I would remove the sump and gear change shaft and seal . Give it a good clean with some solvents . Possibly giving it warm up with a blow torch couple of time to get the oil to warm up and come out of the crack. Put the gear change shaft back in when you get it welded . Swapping the cases is not going to be econical by the time you get gaskets , bearings ect be better off getting another engine and stripping that one and selling the bits off .

The natural light uses the connector at the bottom of the engine as the negative return for the light . I would say you have an earth ( negative ) fault possible connector onto the crankcase .

There are some differences between bandit 12 and gsxr motor mainly cams, pistons and clutch . I would personally go with bandit 12 as the crankcaese are slightly different around the gearbox output bearing allowing a wider bearing to be fitted. If your going big bore your going to change to higher comp pistons anyway .

I only went to the next size up and I think the screw was turned in slightly ( richer ) than stock .

I ended up going bigger pilots as was lean . Sometimes at the lights it would cut out . I found that bringing the tick over up a bit helps when there turbo . As for the floats if it's not flooding the carbs I would leave it as is .

I connected all 4 carbs tops to a manifold then used this to feed the boost gauge . It will pulse with just being on one especially on tick over.

Personally i would try enlarging/ porting the wastegate hole in the turbine housing first but if you want to go external run a 38 or 40mm wastegate . Turbosmart or Tial . You could risk a Chinese job but I know people to have problems with the diaphragm and also sticking open when there hot . Be careful with placement in the collector as too much of an angle to exhaust flow you will still get boost creap .

Clutch basket should have 72 teeth