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NotStock

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  1. I am not 100% convinced that my turbo is high enough to properly drain into my sump under gravity. It might be, but I won't know until I get the bike full of oil and at its final stance. I can't move the turbo, so I am contemplating a sump and scavenge pump. I have two questions - does anyone know of mechanical pumps still out on the market? I have done a ton of searching, but I only come up with dry sump car systems (extra massive overkill) or references to pumps that seem to be defunct (emtes for example). If anyone knows of a good mechanical pump, please fill me in because I am getting nowhere. Second question is do I need sump or tank or whatever? I have noticed a lot of guys just running the -10 turbo drain line straight into an electric or mech pump. I like the simplicity of this setup, but I worry about not having a vent on the line between the turbo and the pump. In my mind you want the turbo to drain to atmosphere and have the scavenge pump pulling from a vented tank. I hope I am wrong, because I hate the idea of a bunch of unnecessary parts!
  2. The more I look at these pictures, the more I like how tight everything fits. The plenum is right on top of the carbs/TBs and looks really tidy. I don't have room for the big gap you get with silicone joiners so this will work great.
  3. Amazing! Thanks everyone. Should have asked earlier... I have been thinking about this for a while. BTW, that fabricated charge pipe and plenum is nuts! Really cool setup.
  4. Anyone using stock intake boots as adapters from throttle bodies to a plenum? This groove where they mount to a stock air box is pretty well perfect for the 1/8" material I would like to use to build my plenum. Only concern is if they will seal against the sheet metal by only using this ridge, or if I will have problems with boost leaks. I will use some supports to keep the plenum from blowing off. Maybe there is away to glue them in for added security? Just wondering if anyone had done it this way. Seems like an easy, clean, and low profile solution. Other options are to use silicone coolers or machine some adapters with an internal o-ring to fit over the TBs. Only thing that worries me about the o-ring idea is that everything will need to be bang on, like within a few .001" or else there will be fitment issues. Not so easy with a welded part and no mill... The stock boots are nicer than silicone joiners since I wouldn't lose the space needed to add a spigot to the plenum and won't need a million hose clamps in there cluttering things up. Anyway, just looking for some input. Thanks!
  5. Wouldn't returning to the main tank make more sense? Send the hot fuel that has been through the pump and FPR back to the main tank and let the pot be replenished with the lower temp fuel from the main tank? The main tank could act as a bit of a radiator and heat sink. I am completely guessing, no experience here, but isn't the idea to keep as much heat away from the pump as possible?
  6. Like where this is headed. Nice work, and nice looking shop.
  7. Moved this over to the project section. No need to clog up air cooled with what turned into a build.
  8. One province over. I'm in NB. Shop is in the two car attached to my house. My problem is that I travel a lot, like 2-3 weeks a month, so finding shop time is hard for different reasons. Must say though, it is nice to be able to pop out and do an hour of work whenever I can fit it in.
  9. Thanks! Your build thread is good inspiration. Makes me want to get out in the shop and work on this pile.
  10. Motor mounts done. I moved the efe up a little in the frame to get better clearance at the lower mount. Maybe 1/8 of an inch. The front worked out really nicely. With the wider frame I could use straight 1/4" plates. It was an iterative process. I made several versions that ended up in the scrap bin. Very happy with the end result, but the whole process made me really aware of how much I need a Bridgeport. The mounts might get speed holes in the future, but not until I can do a nice job of it. I still need to weld in the fixed mounting points. But that is easy now that the motor is located.
  11. here are a few more pictures of the cradle and the way it comes apart to take the motor out. Im going to move the hanging point back further to get a better angle of dangle. First iteration was a wild guess. If you wanted to run a piece of stock parallel to the backbone you could use an engine leveler.
  12. I didn't want to repost the picture, but you did a beautiful job on soda blasting the motor!! Would you be able to post some info on how you blast a motor without pulling it apart? I have been wanting to do this for a long time but I have never seen a good post describing the process. I finally have a compressor with the balls to run a blaster and I have a motor with a crappy paint job just begging for the treatment! Would love to see some pics or a description of how you go about it and get such good results. Thanks!!
  13. Well, hard to make excuses, but I assumed the flange diameter didn't matter. I chucked up an 1 1/4 piece of material to make the guide, assuming that the drill in the centre would be enough to guide the saw. In reality, I should have made the guide the same OD as the saw ID to keep it true to the drill bit. I never would have guessed that there would be so much runout in a hole saw setup. Ultimately, I got a lot of the runout out by messing with the arbor and the holes measured (shockingly) less than .005" oversize, so good result in the end. The saw was tight on the inner bushings, so Im sure those are perfectly on centre. Hindsight, make the busing OD the same as the saw ID!
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