Kristjan

I have full Akra 4-2-1 on my 1146W, love it other than that it is very silent mode'ish with stock can length. I haven't been brave enough to chop the can either. Don't know a flying fuck about my dyno figures, but I have a black power band on it... K-series stock systems are nowhere near a good fit tbh... They need bending and can still look awkward after they finally fit. Just a perfectionist's opinion

I would bet my money on using two intake cams on 1100 motor, but this will need modified cam clamps for exhaust side. Longer exhaust duration is not really something I would like to see. Both durations could be equal and it'll probably work very well. Long duration exhaust means either a big overlap or tighter piston to valve clearance on exhaust side... and the last one has blown many 1100W's. I don't have a spare intake cam, and too much hassle finding one quick and cheap enough to try, otherwise I would have put one in my motor already. Currently running stock WS cams and ecu, 1146 cm3, +1mm valves both sides and ported head. Plenty of torque, but I think top end somewhat flattens out...

750 cams never had more lift... I don't know where this came from but check your sources. I have some in my shed and can prove it wrong. They do have a couple of degrees more duration though. I wouldn't bother with the 6 speed swap, it probably won't last long. Cams... I'm too lazy to write, si I'll copy some info I've copied from manuals. Just a baseline, not exact measurements. IN 275 EX 278 95-on 1100: ign. 7* BTDC <1500rpm IN 275* 36.692 - 8.7mm EX 278* 36.222 - 8.2mm 93-94 1100: ign. 13* BTDC <1500rpm IN 275* 36.692 - 8.7mm EX 278* 36.612 - 8.6mm 92 750: ign 13* BTDC <1500rpm IN 278* 36.592 - 8,6 EX 282* 36.222 - 8,2

Never heard of oil starvation or shim spitting... and I'm happy to rev mine to the moon after I put it together with 78mm pistons. Over reving is the death, have seen two go bang because of this. They are quite tight on exhaust side piston to valve clearance in stock form and have 4,5mm valve stems. If you bend one valve just a tiny bit - it may even seem straight and work fine, but it will snap soon and cause horrible damage. I'm sure that much trouble can be avoided with good cam timing and the right clearances. Both engines that I have seen blowing up had valve marks on pistons showing that they were hitting each other. Both were bone stock, too, and cam timing was on factory marks. That goes for stock valves; some say that stainless are better, but best is to make sure there is no possible contact between wrong things.

I would top it up with grease instead, old machines can develop leaks with thin liquids like oil you know.

If the engine doesn't produce sounds, it has stopped running... True, isn't it?

Yes.

I could measure a 750 one up tomorrow to see what I'm talking about. However, the real pivot to axle length will be determined by the chain tensioners... Remember, we have slots at the back that are more than one axle diameters long.

1100 is approx. 4cm longer. 600 and 640 mm if memory serves me right.

MCCT needs checking every now and then. Are you sure that it is chain noise and not valve lash and how is it when properly warmed up? These can't be made dead quiet anyway.

@ziggy, I don't know but someone posted pictures in the temporary forum with fairings on.

I don't think durability is an issue on a well maintained engine, and there's plenty of power. They can not be bored to huge capacities like SACS and earlier, but at least the watercooled 1100 has properly sized valves instead of 750-like items that older engines have. To me, 750s have proved to be more "idiot proof" than 1100s, when some dumbasses think they have to get drunk and start banging the bike in the rev limiter until the exhaust is starting to melt down. A friend of mine is riding 07 Yamahahahaha R1, he tried my 7/1146W and said that the torque is really good, usable at low rpm, very prone to wheelie but lacks top end (I'm not surprised when comparing to R1 output figures) and mentioned that the bike will lean quite good. Can't comment that. I will not have a word about chassis, I'm not an expert. During past 3 years, I have gotten used to it, maybe I find it rubbish when I'll try riding something else. I know that my bike is nowhere near a nice suspension setup also, I feel it's not right at all but maybe just the bike is crap.

they look horribly wrong with no fairings covering them.

With the banana type swingarm, shock from a BMW S1000RR should fit pretty nicely, but not with the braced arm, as the reservoir is on the way. And the bimmer has the spring ratio very close to 1100W. As I'm using that shock on my 750W right now and find the spring ratio quite suitable, I may upgrade to a BMW unit at some point. They're going for cheap on the 'bay, too.

Frames are quite silmilar, but 1100 weighs more, has more bracing, does not have removable shock mount, has sidestand mounts in different place, has holes for lower fairing bolts in different place etc. I can't confirm whether there are any important measurement differences between the frames or not. But 1100 has longer forks and longer swingarm. Braced and banana arms have different linkage setup, so if you plan a swap, you need to swap the linkages as well. Having both 1100 and 750 banana swingarm type linkages in my shed, I could say that dogbones are the same and the knuckle may be same, too - the last bit is not confirmed though, but I can't spot any difference with my eye. Newer models with braced arms also have differences in swingarm spindle, I don't remember what exactly but nothing huge I think, stem diameter may be a little different. Forks can be swapped together with yokes. Stems and bearings are the same. Forks on 1100s were thicker, so 750 yokes will not work with 1100 forks and vice versa. Calipers are interchangeable and so are the wheels and brake rotors. Anything you want to ask, ask. I may have forgotten something or made a mistake somewhere, been a long time since I put mine together.