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yyt

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  1. I'll try to help as I been there.. Check out the way I fixed the problem of the spring, I don't think you'll find this spring at a local spring shop. the spring is very delicate brass spring. You can first check the fuel valve (ball & spring) for proper operation first, by filling the bottom bowel with fuel and pressing on the plunger. Fuel should squirt out of the nozzle outlet while depressing the plunger fills the plunger volume through the bottom valve, the fuel level at the bottom bowl should decrease. I really think the the accelerator pump is not the cause of the fuel leakage, all the accelerator system (intake valve, plunger and nozzle valve) are all under the fuel level and can't cause leaks in my opinion.
  2. yyt

    oil leak!

    Thanks, I had a feeling its ok as I thought but wasn't sure from about 20 years ago that oil came out when opening the signal generator cover. Partially puts my mind to rest, now I'll keep searching for the problem. When starting the engine the #3 exhaust is dead cold, without chock and I've checked the ignition, its ok. I guess I'll take off the carbs and check the #3 carb. Slow system pilot air-way and needle.
  3. yyt

    oil leak!

    I'm not sure if its ok or not! On a slabby 750 - 86 When I removed the signal generator cover about 100cc oil came out, turning manually the crank there is a small drip of oil and starting the engine oil is spitting out from behind the signal generator. Is that normal or i need to replace the oil seal behind? Is there an oil seal? anyone knows the dimensions? Took every-thing apart and refurbished except the engine. I think this is the reason the engine has difficulty to start.
  4. As for the fuel tap, you can easily test it. just connect the outlet to an empty can, apply vacuum to the diaphragm and see if the fuel flows. The floats valves are a little harder. I got some aftermarket, just more needles and also original from japan.. had problems with all. I made a test set-up to find out from all the valves and housings the "PP" (perfect pair).
  5. I would just check the pressure for a start. I think the oil pump is the heart of oil boilers, in the near future i'm planning on adding a fixed gauge next to instruments panel for pressure n temp. Haven't tested mine yet but i got a pressure gauge of e-bay and planning to check at next maintenance.
  6. Hope this helps.. Should fit your tank, has one outlet n ON/Off/RES. Just replace o-rings n it works great.
  7. If all was well before, best to check the 2 things that make it tick - fuel & ignition. You can check the electrical system by starting the engine with the plugs out and looking to see if there is a spark on each plug. With the fuel system, first check bowel fuel level, with the choke fully opened the engine should give some life indication. Tell us how it goes..
  8. Obviously it's not a factory standard, but my harness is all original and never has been tampered with. I guess a certain batch had this problem, It was odd to me all the voltage differences all around when I had alternator problems. I think the best indication to see if there is a problem is to check the voltage at the fuse box, if it's the same as the batt I guess it's OK.
  9. I agree this thread might get messy, but I'll write what I think. I don't think this is the solution but rather ignores the symptoms. The IC regulator should compensate for the changing electrical load rather than keep charging voltage of the battery. From my last month experience, I had to change the starter carbon bushes, than the alternator IC regulator I checked the voltage all around and found out there is a significant voltage drop on the main 12v line. As you will see the main problem was in the harness, where the main 12v line wasn't connected together! the lines were just put next to each-other and wrapped with insulating tape. Interesting that the orange lines where bundled together good with brass thing. I can't say all Suzuki's harnesses are bad, but for me this was the solution. Give it think, than if you like you delete this to clean this thread.
  10. Before I'll have my say, I would like to make sure this is what you made: * pic deleted because containing inaccurate info *
  11. ENGINE PLATE MOUNT NO.3 - 41931-27A00 Seems to be rare part to find, at all sites its Not Available .. Any one here knows where to find or if someone with a CNC makes them? For a Slabby 750 - 86
  12. Written about this a long time ago..
  13. Thaaaaanks Rick, Your answer really pissed me in a good way.. I spent all last week digging trying to find the right regulator, trying to figure out all the wiring to get it right and fit the damn thing in. Just now i found this combination: https://www.carmo.nl/userfiles/file/plaatjes/CARRG251 Voltage regulator carmo.pdf I ran to my bike, took off the back housing..... and all was good.. its 14.5V. Its past midnight here, so tomorrow i'll clear some space between the housing n the regulator. So again.. Thanks Rick,
  14. I need to replace my slabby's alternator regulator, any one know the spec. of the IC regulator or where to get one? I tried to replace it with universal regulator, it worked according to the test set up in the manual but when i started the engine the voltage went up to +16V so i stopped the engine.
  15. I also had leaking problems with cheaper CARBURETOR REPAIR SET . I have tested each the needle valve and found them to be fine, so the only other option was the O-ring supplied in the set. Apparently the O-ring supplied is 1.5mm diameter so I replaced it with viton 1.9mm diameter and its good now.
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