CossiEst

No nines this year, as i went to the lineup, my oil return pump failed and that was the end of it. there were some other races this summer but i had no time to participate in them. In the winter i made a new exhaust because the old one scraped occasionally and i didn't want to rise the back end higher. Got some 2,5'' stainless pipe and a lextek can, changet it's inlet from 51 to 63mm and fabbed up a new downpipe. Can't wait to ride it again

Hi, i set up my bandit myself, with very little knowledge, it's been very educational on the carb side. Do you have this AFR troughout the whole (boosted) rev range, or does it lean out in the higher rpms? If the AFR curve is flat then fit 005-010 bigger mains and you should be fine. While i tuned mine i saw that the afr is changing from (lets say) 13:1 with 115 mains To 12:1 with 125 mains, so after that it was easier to choose a main jet ballpark. If the mixture leans out in the higher revs (as mine did) then try to move the pitot tube inlet to a different place in the oncoming airflow. Rising the fuel pressure has very little effect on mixture, it has to be as low as possible and as high as needed :D

I've got this one. Bought it to match the dynojet wideband gauge. It's mechanical and needle shakes like hell, I only get decent readings when bike is at full boost. Thing was like 6x the money of the previous glycerine filled one....

i used the water drain pipe that lives inside the tank. Just cut it with a hacksaw blade from filler hole, and plug the hole on top. Easiest way, but on the downside you might get some rain/water under the filler cover, that might get inside your fuel

I meant the vacuum hose to the fuel tap, and blank off the other end at the carb. Don't rely on stock blank off nipples because they will fly off with boost, use somekind of a clamp over them. Also use rubber mounts/dampeners from stock oil cooler to fit the new one, it wants to move with changing temps. My cooler sits very close to the frame, to give R1 forks room for full lock.

Stock bandit fuel tap is vacuum operated, just disconnect the hose and set it to PRI. Flow is sufficent

my 1216 @10psi and td04 has 125 prox ones in it. Afr is 11,5 at full throttle

It made 10.7 last year, probably thanks to new lower suspension. Will be aiming 9's this year with the longer swingarm

The bike is still going strong. Waken from winter-sleep few days ago. Having some issues with too rich condition. It has not been dynoed still, but has had some suspension upgrades and 4'' extended swingarm with 6'' Tlr rim at the rear

Mine's has been running for 2 years now. I guess the pipework is overkill, but i've had no leaks since fitted those, and it looks good

After messing about with the carbs in september i noticed that bike doese'nt like starting with choke anymore. Usually when starting up cold engine i pulled the choke fully on and everything was like it should, the same when it was NA (revs rising and slowly backing off, til it was warm enough) Now it starts with choke but seems to flood the engine (afr gauge drops under 10:1) in few seconds and stalls, if i back off the choke, then the revs are too low and it stalls again. Only way to get it warmed up is to start with half choke and play with the throttle, same time closing the choke circuit. When its warm, then all is good. Cleaned the carbs, checked for leaks in needle valves, plugs all look the same color. Tried with fuel pump turned off, but nothing. I'm out of ideas. it can't be because i lowered the needle by two clips?

Problem solved. The o-ring under the carb top was blocking the signal to dump valve, and it was probably leaking. For peace of mind i cleaned the lot, checked float heights and measured fuel pressure. Now its between 11 and 12 all over the rpm range (on full throttle) Cruising is 13.5 and idle 11.5

I raised the needles back to the center groove, but this problem stayed, it starts leaning out after 7000 rpm. I'm going to strip the carbs and give them a good clean, and assemble with most care. There has to be something wrong, because this setting (RUN2) worked fine before

http://www.Eblag.com/itm/Suzuki-GSF1200-Bandit-MTC-1216-Turbo-Pistons-81mm-/252015586383

Can't lower fuel pressure, it will starve on longer under-boost runs, it's about 2,5-3 psi. So, i did a fresh ''pull'' and that's RUN1, not too bad (richest was 10,6). Then started to lower the needle, mains seem to be ok. In the center groove it was better (RUN2), no change in top end (richest was 10,9). But lowering it again did THIS (RUN3) made midrange leaner but wtf happened to the top end? Also noticed that cruising ( 60mph) AFR was changing big time because the needle position: RUN1-12.5 RUN2-13,4 RUN3-14,3 What should be ok for cruising?