Dogbones/rear shock knuckle bolt replacement?

[Jpich85]

I've made some adjustable dogbones for my bike and need some longer bolts, I just wanted to ask what's the most suitable bolt to use here, is stainless ok for would it have to be high tensile, they are m14 and it needs to be 155mm long?

Cheers

 

Edited April 29, 2018 by Jpich85

[wraith]

Both will work.

[nlovien]

at M14 x 2 I don't see an issue with SS ( use it myself - no issue) - always wary of HT bolts in a cyclic shear position ( stress fracture ) - std 8.8 is best overall

one thing to watch for - if your using track rod ends - often had an issue getting a sleeve fit with a std bolt through these things ending with a bit of free play chatter in the whole suspension link set up - sorted by making to fit bolts or using undersized ones and making a sleeve

[Jpich85]

Thanks guys, I appreciate that, I'll get some stainless ones I think, hopefully they'll be ok.

I got some rose joints from mcgills for the track rod end, I haven't bolted it all up yet but hopefully they'll do the job.

 

[CockneyRick]

Got a rose joint on my steering damper & cos the rose part sits proud of the holder part, the bracket itself is quite sloppy as it only clamps agains't the rose.

I assume the quality of the rose joint is my issue, so as long as they're a good make, then hopefully it'll be ok  

[markfoggy]

The ball in the joint has a very small contact patch, so it is important to fit a washer to stop it eating anything aluminium.

Even when it runs onto steel, a washer and regular replacement is worth it. That ball it very hard and the carrier is a softer material, is designed to wear the carrier more than the ball, so the whole area has a limited life.  They are cheap enough to source and replacement is usually possible. Ff you want to get a high end damper to live forever in a difficult to access area, you can buy rubber boots, but they are bastards to fit.

I have a habit of shooting chain lube at them to get them lubed, idea being that it will stay where I want it for longer than a dribble of oil or a shot of WD40. 

[Jpich85]

Thanks for your help guys, I was concerned about the small contact area on the rose joint because the bolt will only be sitting on a few mm, I've made a stainless washer that will hopefully do the job.

Here's a pic of the one I've made so far

 

[nlovien]

you don't need to be making a hard grip on the side - this can give you a false indication thats its good ( gripping on side versus supporting through the hole ) - key is to get a nice snugg no play fit of the bolt through the hole - I rarely achieve this with a bolt - they are just not ID/OD matched - so I make a bush - so you make the bush length = to or a tad slightly longer than the width of the ball - so when you nip the bolt up it shoulders on the bush - not the ball

If you machine a stud to match fit the ball ID then achieve the same by making the stud shank length = to or slightly longer - as above

but don't think that by gripping tight on the sides it will prevent  chatter in the suspension if the bolt OD isn't a tight fit on the ball ID - it will work loose quickly