NorthernBloke Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 More questions now that I finally have a new battery on my US import 1100es, After confirming that the 8 yr old dry battery that the bike came with couldn't be revived I fitted a new Motobatt today and finally started to test the electrics. First off was getting rid of the indicators being on all the time which was just a wire disconnection, so far so good. Next tried and failed to stop the head and tail lights being on all the time and after checking my Haynes manual wiring diagram the only differences I can see are with the light switch, so I believe I need to get hold of a UK light switch, is that correct? Then onto the dipped beam which seems to dip the right way I.E. down to the left which is good. Finally tried to spin it over but nothing at all no clicks or nothing. All fuses are Okay, stripped and cleaned the starter button that was all tarnished all connections from starter button are good, then I noticed the side-stand light was on, so bypassed it but its still on ? I am assuming this is my problem but don't really know where to look next, btw neutral light is on and always has been. Any ideas ? Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Clutch switch...... if it has one? Usually tied into the start circuit somewhere. Basics - power up to start / ign bar switch, follow those wired to next junction / object and check still powered, next and so on till the last bit. If that all checks out then check earths. Assuming the starter is actually connected via soli to battery? A spanner across the soli terminals will prove starter operation. 1 Quote Link to comment
Screwriverracing Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 As Gixer1460 says, have you tried with the clutch pulled in? Also is there a side stand switch? Cheers SRR Quote Link to comment
Fjbj40 Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Just so you know the light warning system on the ES and the EF bikes can be an issue. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?192643-Warning-lights&highlight=Warning in post #7 there is a blurb about it. My ES had similar issues so I eliminated the warning box and all is well now, just no headlamp out or tail light out warning, all other warnings work as normal. I do have a link if you need to eliminate the box if it is unserviceable. There is no cutting of wires to do this, just jumpers at 1 switch block, for the North American models anyways. link http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?67151-1150-Monitoring-unit-removal&highlight=1150+wiring Hope this helps in some way, cheers 1 Quote Link to comment
NorthernBloke Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 Thanks guys, I’ve shorted the starter solo noid and it spins over perfect so must be an interlock somewhere. I’ve pulled the sprocket cover to check the wiring there and as expected it was gummed up but the cover is filled with expanded foam is that normall, never seen it on any other bike? Anyway I’ll check out the suggested thread later cheers. Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 28 minutes ago, NorthernBloke said: the cover is filled with expanded foam is that normal yes Quote Link to comment
NorthernBloke Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said: yes Thanks Cap'n, thought it was some kind of mega bodge ! Quote Link to comment
johnr Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 nope, it stops a broken chain from doing too much damage, Quote Link to comment
Captain Chaos Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 I thought it was to reduce noise from the chain/sprocket Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said: I thought it was to reduce noise from the chain/sprocket Winner Winner - Chicken Dinner ! ! ! I did like the case protection one - very inventive! Quote Link to comment
vizman Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 damaging your ear drums? Quote Link to comment
NorthernBloke Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 Progress update on the starting issue; after going through cleaning and checking all connections I found the side stand switch doesn't work but as it stays open circuit all the time I think this should be fine for now. Also struggling to find a pattern replacement I've seen rear brake light switches that look to have a similar fitment so will see if one of these can be adapted as they are cheap. Also managed to get it to spin over with the clutch pulled in which is real progress, but testing continuity of the switch it does seem to open and close when pulled, so not sure if you have to pull the clutch to start the bike even in neutral with the side stand up which seems a bit strange, anyway making slow but steady progress which is great. Onward and upwards ! Quote Link to comment
Gixer1460 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Remember its a US bike ....... the land of the Lawsuit! If they didn't make it ridiculously difficult to start a bike with the possibility of you not being at least hands on somewhere, in case of in gear etc etc etc, then the legal eagles would have a field day! Quote Link to comment
Dorkburger Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 The clutch switch is easily bypassed. Trace the wires from the switch back to the next connection, unplug the switch leads, plug the wires from the harness together. Done. The contacts at the switch tend to get corroded. Also, the switch does have adjustment. There are 2 screws under the perch with slotted holes to slide the switch. (Same for the front brake light if you have issues there in the future). If you decide to take it apart, be aware that there are tiny parts that will fall out, run away, then hide.... Quote Link to comment
Swiss Toni Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Had the same problems with clutch and sidestand inhibitor switches. Went through a bag of 6 SS switches before I got a working unit. Few weeks down the line...that's fucked too! Piss poor design, and stupidly expensive for NOS! Quote Link to comment
NorthernBloke Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Cheers guys I’ve got it working now, the clutch switch works but the side stand doesn’t but I can live with that. It just seems weird that I have to pull the clutch to start the bike even when in neutral with the neutral light showing. I don’t know if that is normal or not or a US thing? 1 Quote Link to comment
Dorkburger Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 U.S. thing. Even in neutral. Quote Link to comment
BigT Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 The result of Joan Claybrook. a crazed bureaucrat circa 1980. Safety switches and the 85 mph speedometer, because, you don't need to go faster than that, right? Quote Link to comment
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