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dumbest idea ever?


riversbikes

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Yep, you read right.    It looks pretty, but is expensive to insure here in Canada, and I have a far more practical street triple for the street.  I've done the forks and a gsxr rear shock... I've roadraced for 20 years, and there is something appealing about racing an oldschool suzuki.  Ditch the lights, put on some stickier tires, and... get beaten by 600s?  Even with upgraded suspension and a weight reduction, how badly would a bandit handle?  Ive bought RS36s since the photo was taken, so it likely makes a few ponies over stock.  I also lost about 40 lbs hacking off the rear subframe and welding on a 4130 rear subframe a la pepo...  Is this the stupidest idea ever?  The engine has only 12,000 kms!

done1.jpg

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Go for it. 

There' a one make class for 600 bandits over here. The front runners run some impressive lap times.

The cams and compression are a bit soft on the bandit. 750 cams and more cr should see you able to keep up with latest 600s. 

What ever you do to the motor, look at the cooling first. Oil boilers love an extra cooler or too, else the power tails off after a couple of laps.

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This is what we call positive peer pressure.  I could beat one of the zx10Rs on my Duke 690 last year, so this should be a riot.  Will leave the engine alone until I find a proper suspension set up and ideal tire.  Thinking Pirelli Supercorsas as slicks will likely tie the chassis up in knots...  I've got race tech emulators installed already, and a sturdy fork brace.  Stock springs still *(my local track looks like a street in downtown Beirut its so bumpy), but I have club racer support from Racetech so maybe they can help me out with a proper fork build.  Some cheap 1100 forks and triples on Eblag right now, the longer early type as well....

Edited by riversbikes
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14 hours ago, riversbikes said:

Thanks for the advice -- I plumbed in an oil cooler on my ER6 racer a few years ago -- sandwitch adapter plate, some an6 hoses, and a ducati oil cooler from a Monster.  Worked well.  Any bolt on options?

You loose power because on the oilboilers the combustion chamber is cooled by an oil jacket, fed from the oil pump via the oil lines on the back of the head.  You need to plumb a cooler into this circuit, to keep the cylinder head cooler.  

Look at pictures of the Yoshi bikes from Endurance and AMA in the 80's and you'll see the head coolers are bigger than the main oil cooler.

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On 28/12/2017 at 4:51 PM, riversbikes said:

I see some Hel kits -- 19 row oil coolers with aeroquip lines.  Hel makes quality stuff... a good place to start?

Aye but the HEL stuff is expensive  have a look at mocal coolers and source the linrs else where. As big a diameter as you can i think the HEL coolers run AN-10 fittings n lines. IIRC the cooler take offfs from the sumps are M22 x 1.5mm. Torques UK on Eblag generally seem to be good quality for the money.

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2 minutes ago, Cluffy said:

Aye but the HEL stuff is expensive  have a look at mocal coolers and source the linrs else where. As big a diameter as you can i think the HEL coolers run AN-10 fittings n lines. IIRC the cooler take offfs from the sumps are M22 x 1.5mm. Torques UK on Eblag generally seem to be good quality for the money.

The Hel stuff is now cheaper than Torques in some instances.  

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On 28/12/2017 at 10:42 AM, dupersunc said:

You loose power because on the oilboilers the combustion chamber is cooled by an oil jacket, fed from the oil pump via the oil lines on the back of the head.  You need to plumb a cooler into this circuit, to keep the cylinder head cooler.  

Look at pictures of the Yoshi bikes from Endurance and AMA in the 80's and you'll see the head coolers are bigger than the main oil cooler.

Where are these mounted Dunc? I’m trying to find some pictures but failing, mostly because of photbucket. I’m interested in location and hose routing.

Edited by Jay_111
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