Slabby turbo header design\layout

[TiZiK]

Hey all!

Started on the next phase of my project. The boost phase. Went through a bunch of ups and downs regarding turbo placement and header design. 

Turbo I'm using is a Holset HY35 with the 9cm turbine housing. Initially, I had an HX35 but that turbine housing is just fucking massive so settled on the HY as it flows close to the HX but in a slightly smaller package. 

I cut the cross brace out that sits at the front just below the oil cooler. This allowed me to get the turbo high enough and back enough for oil drain and front wheel clearance. 

I started laying out the piping for the headers. Knowing that ideally, you want like cylinders feeding each other and equal length etc, it's just not gonna happen. No space. 

In the pics, you can see my current layout. Its the best I can see so that the turbo has a nice lil home and the pipes don't interfere with the oil cooler. I'm using sch.40 1.5" piping btw

Figured I'd throw it up here and see what some of your thoughts are. Maybe you guys see something I don't? Possibly a different solution?

T.I.A

[no class]

your current set up looks like left turns will be hindered by the air filter sticking out too far  , the center line of the turbine shaft should be a little higher for gravity return....be careful with the amount of angle you set at the flange too.... and why schedule 40 pipe ????  that will be alot of weight (including the turbo) hanging off the cylinder head . thinner wall (.062" - .074" ) 304 stainless or better yet some 321stainless would be my choice here .....purge your welds ....makes for  cleaner / solid penetration . when setting up the turbo placement ,  make sure you raise  the fork tubes in the trees to replicate maximum fork compression and give yourself a little extra......forks will flex on hard braking / wheelies.....and wheel to turbo contact could result in ...shall we say....soiled pants .

[Gixer1460]

Agreed - schedule 40 cast bends = weight and difficult fabrication. 316 or better pre-bends easier. I'd pair up 2&3 into the back and have 1&4 ram's horn around frame and pair into the front. Pre-bends will help getting turbo higher also - piccy isn't the best but certainly not the worst for information purposes.

[Arttu]

Few comments:

• Have you tried placing the turbo on other side of the bike? That could make things a bit easier. Or not.
• What size are the bends? Looks like they could be smaller which would make fitting easier pretty much everywhere but especially at collector.
• Forget about equal length. As far as I know it isn't very important with turbo headers.

Just for an example, here are few pics of header that I have on my current project. It isn't HY35 but similar sized HX35 based hybrid so fitment should be quite similar as well.

Edited October 30, 2017 by Arttu

[Duckndive]

5 hours ago, Arttu said:

Few comments:

• Have you tried placing the turbo on other side of the bike? That could make things a bit easier. Or not.
• What size are the bends? Looks like they could be smaller which would make fitting easier pretty much everywhere but especially at collector.
• Forget about equal length. As far as I know it isn't very important with turbo headers.

Just for an example, here are few pics of header that I have on my current project. It isn't HY35 but similar sized HX35 based hybrid so fitment should be quite similar as well.

Nice Headers Shame about the Cam Cover Gasket............. 

[Arttu]

7 hours ago, Duckndive said:

Nice Headers Shame about the Cam Cover Gasket............. 

Haha! I was sure someone will mention that. The engine is still intact from previous owner but don't worry, it will be fully dismantled and checked before action.

Unfortunately I can't take much credit from the headers. I just decided general layout and acquired materials. A friend of mine did actual fabrication as he is really handy with this stuff.

[TiZiK]

@no classForks were raised in triples to replicate full compression. Centerline of turbo is pretty much in line the the very top of the sight glass so I don't see any issues there. Also, this bike isn't gonna see much street riding. Going to the strip with it mostly so not too worried about left turns, wheelies etc. It also stretched at the rear. 

 

I used sch. 40 cause my friend had these bends on hand already. I agree that it's heavier but it'll help retain heat for the turbine at least. I'm going to be adding a support bracket to help with the weight. Also, I had new exhaust flanges water jetted from 1\2" 304 SS. They sit flush against the mountings if the head and add some support.

 

 

[TiZiK]

Now, I'm by no means making any claim that I'm some sort of fabricator. In fact, this is my first go at making a set of headers or anything of the sorts. I did, however, gave a damn good try this weekend and decided to go ahead and work with what I have. The process was fun and I learned a bit too. 

Just one more runner to do and I'm going to change that small bend on the #4 runner to a straight piece so it comes into #3 at a straighter angle. 

I'm pretty happy with it so far. If it's absolute shit in the end, I'll have gained some experience at least and will give it another go. 

[TiZiK]

On 30/10/2017 at 8:28 AM, Arttu said:

Few comments:

• Have you tried placing the turbo on other side of the bike? That could make things a bit easier. Or not.
• What size are the bends? Looks like they could be smaller which would make fitting easier pretty much everywhere but especially at collector.
• Forget about equal length. As far as I know it isn't very important with turbo headers.

Just for an example, here are few pics of header that I have on my current project. It isn't HY35 but similar sized HX35 based hybrid so fitment should be quite similar as well.

I did try placing the turbo on the other side. Just couldn't get it to sit nicely and have it high enough and enough clearance for the wheel. I am using a 2001 r6 front end (reworked to suit) so maybe the offset has my wheel sitting back a bit more that others? I don't know. 

The bends are 1.5" in long radius 90* and short radius 90*.  They're working out ok so far. 

Have you modified that HX? I ask cause I have an HX as well but it's fucking massive! Mine has the 12cm twin scroll housing. 

 

 

[Arttu]

6 minutes ago, TiZiK said:

Have you modified that HX? I ask cause I have an HX as well but it's fucking massive! Mine has the 12cm twin scroll housing.

That's some kind special from local Holset distributor. As far as I know the turbine side and center piece are from HX35, apparently 8cm2 housing. Compressor side is then something slightly smaller. It should spool faster than the HX and still produce over 400hp. And first of all it's easier to fit   I also did some test fitting with HX35 but it would have been too much hassle. Basically choices were to mount it too low for gravity drain or hack the frame loop. Or do side mount installation.

Here is HX35 sitting below oil level.

[TiZiK]

I hacked the frame brace off in the front. Lol

I entertained the thought of side mount. Didn't see it being any easier to fab up headers tho. Plus having to support the weight of the HX\HY.

The HY I'm using has the same compressor side as the HX but uses the 9cm single entry housing. Considerably smaller than the 12cm.

At one point I was looking at getting a lighter a\r .63 housing and having it machined to fit onto the HX. Turbo Lab America offers this but the cost was more than I wanted to spend

Edited October 31, 2017 by TiZiK

[TiZiK]

Just to finalize this post, I carried on with the layout I started with, but with one small change. I re-did the small connector piece that joined #4 to #3. Used a straight piece so it was more of a straight shot to the turbo. All in all, not too bad for my first crack at it I'd say. 

 

Edited November 12, 2017 by TiZiK

[Tombola]

Nice job! Is that thin wall pipe going to the head?

[Sheep]

Just thinking the same thing.....

Much better now 4-3 has changed...

[TiZiK]

8 hours ago, Tombola said:

Nice job! Is that thin wall pipe going to the head?

Thanks man. Was no easy task that's  for sure.  The pipes going to the head are 1¼ sch 10 and the rest is 1½ sch 40.   The 1¼ sch 10 fits perfectly in the exhaust port area so that's why I used it there.