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GSX 1100 EFE wheel swap


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Yes that fact has been well established long before this particular thread.

hey I'm just trying to HELP THE NEXT GUY. Keep eating that popcorn.

You've proven to only be willing to "tease with tidbits" from the beginning of my politely asking (simplest way to fit wheels on efe). This could have been done and done with in 1 or 2 replies... Now you wanna make me feel like I lost out on other precious info because of "my attitude" . Thats RICH. You guys have your heads way up your asses.

A couple weeks later. someone else comes along trying to ask the same question. It's as if you... people... would rather drag this out than be helpful and get on with life. Compared with a somewhat different version of ones self from 2013. Much like you'd all rather sit back and watch your wives get gangraped rather than consider licensed gun ownership. You know "gods country" and all that. Stubborn arrogant limey fuckheads.

If you just (be a sport) put it in the archives. People will stop coming along and asking the same question... And while they're at it (or not) I'm sure someone could probably be a dear and also put slabside wheel swap info (front and rear. mainly front...) and then people would stop asking that same goddamn thing as well. And not have to roll down the road with god knows what setup like poor jacktar and cockneyrick. I'm good from here I can figure out how to place the efe caliper on the gsxr disk and have someone make that bracket. And also thanks to ME. The next 5 or 10 dudes who want to do this in 2018 and beyond can be directed to this thread and in turn to that other thread on aircooled suzuki (should they not google the right combination of words or their search engine never lead them there). And not have to waste hours and sweat about uncertainties and inexperience. you know. INFO. 

efe carrier in slingshot (5.5) wheel. left spacer reduced to 4.5mm. seal removed and "outer wall" cut down until the spacer is once again the first thing protruding. replace bearing with a sealed version  NSK brand 6305DDU bearing (avoid 6305DDUC3 rating. the C3 part means its made with slightly loose clearances for high heat applications. so avoid ones that say C3. Just get 6305DDU)  Right side gsxr spacer and 14mm thick hanger. For the next innocent soul trying to get to the bottom of this and not trying to dick around wasting time.

Use an early teapot 600-750 caliper and caliper hanger. Fits the gsxr disk and is on top style. To allow continued use of the efe anchor arm.

Edited by boilerdude
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I did. I'm gonna. The shit is at the shop. I may even get to ride the bike this fall. 

https://ithaca.craigslist.org/mcy/d/1985-suzuki-gs1150e-rare-find/6332649721.html

Also might pick this up over the next few days if he still has it. And do the same thing with it. straight away. without hassle. Hell maybe I could even market a kit in the US. 

 

Edited by boilerdude
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58 minutes ago, boilerdude said:

It's as if you... people... would rather drag this out than be helpful and get on with life. Compared with a somewhat different version of ones self from 2013.

things have changed since 2013. For example I also found out that EFE frames are welded on the piss, what fits my bike might not fit yours, the wheel ends up not centered. Actually I completely forgot about me sharing those data in the past because they are probably not accurate and I never shared them since, for that reason. There is info and there is info.

But if you are happy with what you found as gospel, then enjoy it.

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well which is it then? are you still withholding goodies or are you all of a sudden disdainful of your previous advice. A tad confusing that it's both things now. I'm calling your bluff. Also the popcorn thing petty as it may be carries an implication that you are (excuse me... were...) sitting on a goldmine but enjoying watching me struggle.

The important thing is getting equal clearance at the front of the swingarm. for maximum tire size. And obviously that will put the wheel close enough to being aligned on the bike. I doubt it will be 8mm out anyway.  It's only a few off from my "stock efe wheel position" method I was originally going with. But then a stock efe wheel has plenty of room on either side of the swingarm. That spacer method or aligning the entire bike would be more likely to limit tire size to 160 or 170. Main focus is simply swingarm clearance up front. And I doubt theres that much error in that vastness of 2 or 3 feet of swingarm. So then...The next thing is chain run. and I dont see anybody in that other thread like "hey I did this and my chain keeps popping off". They obviously werent so horribly off that each spacer had to be hand made to each bike. As I am pretty sure they arent... 

This is actually kinda fun. Using my own wit and resourcefulness to learn how to modify bikes. Through a combination of internet research, common sense, and psychoanalysis.

Edited by boilerdude
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@boilerdudei find it's a privilege to have access to the internet and platforms such as OSS, where we can log/debate/share our experiences.... my 'showng you the exit' comment was not a threat, more a gentle reminder that if you don't like it here you can always move along, please RTFR.

we have site users that visit and post frequently, some that visit frequently but only post now and again and every combination of viewing/posting ratios you can think of due to work/family/holiday/illness/etc.... so please don't get your panties bunched-up if the answer your looking for isn't instantaneous, the same 'bunched panties' applies if you get answers but they still don't answer your question.

i hope you change your attitude and stick around to share your OSS shenanigans.....have a few days on the quiet step.

if you don't change your attitude we bid you farewell.

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I generally do this without the tyres on and appropriate blocks against the front or a piece of string from the head stock down the centre of the tyre then measure the gaps and machine up the spacers/machine down the sprocket carrier etc. The rear wheels don't always run centrally in the arm. That picture is from the Maxton homepage by the way. Frames differ even within the same model as Cap'n says so it's worth measuring your individual bike.

 

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On 14/10/2017 at 12:58 AM, boilerdude said:

Ok so I got my wheels back from the machine shop (having nothing done yet). And took some quick measurements you can believe me or not.  With the efe sprocket carrier in the efe wheel and then efe carrier in gsxr wheel. 3mm most certainly does not need added on to the sprocket side spacer. There is approximately a 12.5mm difference to the center casting mark (not the most precise I know but it's there anyway.) and it is of course naturally the gsxr wheel which is a further distance. So approximately 12.5 mm needs cut off from the sprocket side by my measurements. (and the carrier hub itself will also need cut into. And also the sprocket bolts will need cut down to avoid fouling the swingarm. Just as with the gsxr carrier (or just pull them in with shims)) 

So now I wonder what carrier may offer more room yet. teapot 1100 perhaps. slabby. 88-89 750. I have the latter 2. gonna try and measure those up over the next few moments. Or perhaps I should just pick up a file and start shaving down my own spacer and then the actual hub and each of the sprocket bolts until the wheel is properly centered. 

Perhaps I could have the cush flaps and rubbers cut down And that inner spacer. bring it in that way. just a thought. The spacer would be the first thing. and then the flaps and rubbers merely need to fit firmly afterward.. I doubt there is clearance for the chain to the tire with this method. 

It really is starting to look like the best way to do this clean and proper is (bandit) swingarm swap with the upper shock mount welding. 

Glad your getting there and I did say you would be best direct measure everything as it was a few years ago and only remembered making a spacer up, but I never had to machine the carrier or wheel and the EFE carrier cleared the extended swing arm using standard unfettled parts..... mine all cleared probably because of the extended swing arm pulling everything backwards ... you got the way ahead now so happy daysScreenshot_20171004-120833.thumb.png.a0bf2792b8d93f7df52677c18fa4896b.pngScreenshot_20171005-202137.thumb.png.c4ff492e4ae06444b4f471080c653cfd.png

Edited by jacktar01
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  • 2 weeks later...

I had the sprocket spacer machined down to 4.5mm. And the sprocket carrier machined down to suit. Then went and got 14mm worth of washers for the right side just to see if it all fits snug. And it's perfect. All thats left is have the bracket made 14mm thick and order a 3/8 offset front sprocket from drag specialties.

By my measurements the slingshot bracket with E caliper would be perfect for the job if the bolt holes werent off that little tiny bit and also if the bearing part was solid so you could just machine it down. The EFE bracket puts either caliper 2mm inward on the disk apart from also being meant for a much bigger disk.

one more thing I have to take the wheel back off and double check is the distance from the pad track on the gsxr disk to spindle. But if My calculations and remaining assumptions are correct then... You basically just copy the gsxr bracket. but with the bolt holes for the E caliper. And indeed 14mm thick at the spacer portion of the bracket. And it doesn't need to have a stupid bearing there obviously.

Edit: the "copy gsxr bracket" idea will work but the pads will be a tad high on the disk. The distance from bolts to spindle could be shortened a few mm.

One step closer to being off riding. Unfortunately not within a week of starting like that other lucky guy. But we're getting there...

Thanks captain gaos. 

Edited by boilerdude
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Thats funny. Nobody saying that snide bullshit to the guy who's 8 mm out and "sold the bike off" ilke that.. People still worship his shit for whatever reason and thats just a minor acceptible imperfection. But since I'm not one of the "elites" heaven forbid mine be 2 or 3 mm out. Hypocrisy at it's finest. nepotistic ass kissery. 

And by casually hijacked you mean... I'm the only motherfucker that actually helped dlindberg figure this out. And he is probably also on his way to being finished with this.

Edited by boilerdude
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Well thats fine and all due respect I'm more in line than some. In this particular swap there is a mere matter of 1-3mm of difference between "aligned with front" or "centered in swingarm for maximum tire fitment." . I have deduced that the "experts" have chosen goal B because it's close enough to goal A.

And after seeing what is good enough for some I figure "at least it's not THAT bad" is good enough for me.

Edited by boilerdude
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4 minutes ago, boilerdude said:

Well thats fine and all due respect I'm more in line than some. In this particular swap there is a mere matter of 1-3mm of difference between "aligned with front" or "centered in swingarm for maximum tire fitment." . I have deduced that the "experts" have chosen goal B because it's close enough to goal A.

i did the "center wheel in frame" then move everything else to fit!! xD 

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15 minutes ago, boilerdude said:

Yes I can cut the steering head out of the frame and move the front end over later if need be. Or I can have somebody make some custom off center triple clamps. To correct the handling.

(y)(y)(y) but only by 8mm, any more would be excessive :banana:

Edited by 370steve
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15 minutes ago, boilerdude said:

Yes I can cut the steering head out of the frame and move the front end over later if need be. Or I can have somebody make some custom off center triple clamps. To correct the handling.

.........alignment of the front and rear wheels is the ONLY!!!!!! method to achieve correct handling......and using your mothers sewing rule is NOT the proper method of metrology ......put the fuckn tools away...get a rope....find a tree.....

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yea yea. It's not an rgv250. It was good enough for those other satisfied customers. If the handling is noticeably off I will only need to machine down the left spacer a tiny bit further (almost to nothing). And then add washer to the far right side. As it is likely off 1-3mm to the starboard side. 

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hopefully someone reading all this is finding out stuff - a wee note on the 1st important bit = get yir chain adjustment marks 100% spot on ( does need accurate measurement - typically taken from the swing arm pivot mount) - get this out by a fraction of a mm = amplify this error to the front wheel by +/- 6ft length and you can easily be tricked into thinking the wheel needs spacing by 5, 10 mm when its the back wheel running squint to the front ( versus offset)

The next bit is to confirm the rear wheel axle is parallel to the swing-arm pivot - if its not ( and plenty are not!) then again - the rear wheel is cocked and give a false reading when comparing to the front

this stuff does need accuracy because you amplify the error via the length to the front

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This is true. If I were measuring with rulers or strings the alignment from the back wheel to front. The first order would indeed be to make sure the back wheel is in fact "pointed the right direction" first. But instead I did the lazy halfass method of simply measuring the difference in width between the wheels and then lazily stumbling onto an internet tutorial from somebody who already worked all of this out. And quickly deducing that his measurements put the wheel very close to where I measured that it was going to be. And thats how I knew "I found it". Because yes I did put some effort towards this. And now we see another benefit of using my "just measure and compare the rear wheels" method. And that is the above mentioned error factor that 6 ft of motorcycle allows. 

I say one more time. If the bikes were that horribly different from one another. That would mean each wheel spacer would need to have been custom made to each one of those thousands of gsxrs and efes. ALL with their own special hand made spacers... No no my friends this is a cut and dried thing. I could do it the same way over and over again. Once somebody gets it right the first time. I can just copy them. Like a big copycat. Just like there is an archived tutorial for the front wheel. 

Edited by boilerdude
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